Tag Archives: Linda Thornton

Mud, Sweat, and Tears: Why the Camino Keeps Luring Us Back

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When family and friends heard we were heading back to the Camino, their first question was “Why?!” They wondered what it was about walking miles, on all kinds of terrain, in all types of weather, and for days on end that made it alluring.

The good terrain

The not-so-good terrain

What is the Camino?

In the ninth century, a local bishop ordered a church to be built to house the remains of St. James, when they were discovered in the northwestern Spanish town of Galicia. Over time, the church grew into the grand cathedral of today, and the city became known as Santiago de Compostela – “St. James under a field of stars.”

Throughout the Middle Ages, people started their pilgrimages from their homes, which created the many routes still used today. Yellow arrows mark the routes to help pilgrims navigate. Along the way, churches, restaurants, and places to stay, stamp a pilgrim’s passport to prove they have walked the minimum 100 kilometers/62 miles required to receive the coveted certificate, or “Compostela,” from the pilgrim office in Santiago.

There are many reasons why people choose to walk the Camino. It evokes a physical, mental, spiritual, and mystical experience unlike any other.

You never know where you’ll find a yellow arrow

It’s Your Camino

Though walking is the most popular way to travel the Camino, some ride a bicycle or travel on horseback. You can travel as much or as little as you would like each day. If you tire, buses and taxis are available, and there are companies offering daily backpack transport.

You can choose to stay in a “donativo” – a mat on a church floor for a donation, a five-star hotel, and anywhere in between, such as an “albergue” – a pilgrim hostel or a “casa rural” – a guesthouse. You can make a reservation ahead of time or see where the wind takes you when you arrive in a town. To keep you energized, the three-course pilgrim meals are delicious and offered at a bargain.

Hotel Antsotegi in Etxebarria was an old iron mill turned hotel

The Olé of Spain

There’s an exuberance and an elegance to life in the Spanish cities. Working to live, rather than living to work, allows time for family and friends. Music and culture are relished, every meal is savored, and life is lived at a slower pace.

Spaniards still enjoy the tradition of the paseo. They dress up for their stroll through a town’s main street or plaza to greet family and friends. No doubt there will be stops along the way for a café con leche y dulce – espresso coffee with hot milk and a sweet – or vino y tapas – wine and appetizers.

The small towns have a charm of their own. As if traveling back in time, a car driving through the street is almost startling. At times, you may be walking through a herd of sheep or visiting a small church, and the simplicity of the moment leads you to ponder your own life.

Estella, Spain was founded in 1090

Pilgrim Power

“Buen Camino!” Each day, pilgrims wish each other a good walk as they pass each other by.

We are all heading to the same place – the Cathedral in Santiago de Compostela – which creates instant camaraderie. There seems to be no interest in who you are at home. Here, everyone is equal.

Encountering pilgrims from all over the world, you begin to realize there are very few differences between you. Very quickly, they are no longer strangers. Your interaction might be days/weeks together or just a few words in passing. Pilgrim families are created, and members may keep in touch for a lifetime. Sometimes just a quick exchange can become crucial to helping you think through an issue in your life.

You feel a positive energy around you each day. The genuine hospitality encountered by people from all walks of life throughout Spain seems to rub off on the pilgrims, who, in turn, are there for their fellow travelers. Whether it’s with a hug, a band-aid, directions, or just a listening ear, there’s a loving spirit that makes you wonder why people aren’t always like this.

Me, Myself and I

You feel an ongoing gratitude for the simplicity of each day, its daily rhythm, and the chance to reboot, as you discover the Spanish culture in slow motion. It’s easier to listen to yourself when it’s quiet and the peaceful solitude of walking alone is a nice balance.

The freedom from everyday obligations and the luxury of being unplugged from the stimuli of our daily lives gives you more time to focus on the world around you. Traveling with only the belongings that fit in your backpack makes you feel lighter. You sometimes feel as if you were turned inside out, with your senses heightened and your mind clear and open.

The mud and sweat are understandable parts of the walk. As your journey ends and you enter the plaza of the Cathedral in Santiago de Compostela, you wonder if your tears are because you conquered the goals of this demanding trip or because your journey has come to an end.

This sign shows the distance from Georgetown, Texas to Santiago de Compostela, Spain

“Live for the moments you can’t put into words.”
“The end is just the beginning”
Authors Unknown

For more information on the Camino:
Watch the movie that resurrected the Camino in the United States in 2010. “The Way” starred Martin Sheen and was written, directed, and produced by his son, Emilio Estevez.

Listen to Dan Mullins’ podcast “My Camino the Podcast” which showcases Camino stories from pilgrims from over the world.

Go to the American Pilgrims on the Camino website which shares information, supports American pilgrims, and subsidizes Camino-related projects with grant money from its dues.

Author’s Note:
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Camp Lucy: Luxury + Nature

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There are some occasions when dining out doesn’t seem like enough. Our 40th wedding anniversary celebration was one of those times and we decided it was the perfect opportunity for a getaway.

Dripping Springs prides itself on offering wedding venues of all kinds

Wanting to try someplace new, after much research, I came upon a resort called Camp Lucy. It is fitting it should be in Dripping Springs, Texas, designated the Wedding Capital of Texas by the Texas House of Representatives in 2015. Located in the Texas Hill Country, known for its picturesque landscapes, the town boasts 35 wedding venues.

Camp Lucy History
Whit Hanks promised himself he would keep the 282 acres he had inherited, away from the hands of developers. With lovely memories of times spent there during the summers, the original home still stood on the grounds.

A former antique dealer turned real estate developer, Whit was on an antique excursion in Vietnam when he came upon the frames of a church and a town hall. Struck by their beauty, intricacy, and workmanship, he purchased them on a whim. Taken apart carefully, each piece was coded and wrapped individually before being shipped.

Not sure what their final purpose would be, he first had the church reconstructed on the property and named it Ian’s Chapel, after his son who had died. Back in 2010, when Whit hosted the first wedding at Ian’s Chapel, there were only three wedding venues in Dripping Springs. Whit jokingly says Kim, a local event planner, started bringing him so much business that it was in his best interest to marry her.

His mother, Lucy, was the inspiration for the resort’s name. With combined creative vision and attention to every detail, Whit and Kim added a pool and lodging. The town building took three months to rebuild into the restaurant, Tillie’s, named after Whit’s grandmother, Attila Hancock. Attila was a prominent Austinite, whose husband, Lewis, served as mayor from 1895 to 1897. Attila and Lewis founded the Austin Country Club, whose golf course is the oldest continuously operated golf course in Texas.

Tillie’s
Driving up the long driveway, we were welcomed by the stone pillars and the Camp Lucy sign. The check-in area held the gift shop and the entrance to Tillie’s. The 400-year-old turquoise doors from India were slightly open, as a tease of what was to come. Pushing open the heavy doors, we were awestruck by the sheer beauty and unexpected uniqueness of the space.

The intricately carved wood frame encircled the space. The French statues of saints are set in individual alcoves from Whit’s private collection. The complex geometric tile flooring was designed for the space. No wonder Tillie’s was voted the most beautiful restaurant in Texas by People magazine and Open Table in their listing of The 50 Most Beautiful Restaurants in America.

We arrived in time for Sunday brunch and agreed, in fairness to our palates, that all meals should be shared. The smoked brisket hash had just the right combination of perfectly prepared brisket combined with potato, onion, peppers, and avocado crema and was topped with sunny-side-up eggs. The dark yellow egg yolks gave a hint that their chickens had recently laid them. The avocado toast was the perfect complement of (freshly baked?) sourdough bread piled high with avocado, cilantro, pickled vegetables, and cotija cheese. Sorbet with fresh berries was just one of the complimentary, anniversary, treats we were surprised with during our visit.

Of course, we dressed for dinner and made a toast with our complimentary glass of Champagne. Watching the beautiful presentations of plates pass by us, we finally decided on a starter of crisp baby romaine, which was much more complex than its name. The piparras peppers, from Spain’s Basque region, were mild and sweet, the pistachios were smokey and the olives, tomatoes, and herbs atop an avocado green goddess dressing were the perfect savory compliment. It was difficult to leave even a dot of the delicious shellfish cream sauce that covered the agnolotti pasta stuffed with potato and shrimp or the spinach coulis that was drizzled over the halibut.

We wondered if the food was as – close your eyes as you savor every bite – delicious, or if the atmosphere lent itself to us believing so. As we devoured what we agreed was, the best egg sandwich we’d ever eaten, the next morning we decided we were correct on both counts.

Lodging
From the wooden key cards to the room’s leather trash cans, the selection of Vietnamese coffees, the electric kettle with various temperature controls, the robes awaiting our arrival in the closet, and the toilet tissue folded into a point, Whit and Kim’s special touches lovingly graced our room. Our Treetop Room had a private balcony that looked out to a lovely hill country view and made it hard to leave. The room’s décor gave us a peak into the couple’s private antique collection.

Our Visit
The resort offers a variety of guest experiences, some included and some for a fee. We opted for the complimentary history tour and alpaca feeding, two great ways to get our bearings. The pool area was a lovely sanctuary, and we swam, slept, and read our afternoons away.

I took a private yoga class, which was held outside on a beautiful morning. My yoga teacher, Stephanie, introduced me to mudras, a Sanskrit word meaning gestures. Mudras are hand and finger gestures that are believed to influence energy flow in the body and mind.

As we walked around the property, a surprise awaited us at every turn: an antique bird cage, a sculpture made more beautiful with its covering of moss, a vineyard producing Camp Lucy wines, an outdoor pavilion, and handmade clay tiles, both from Vietnam. We learned that the stonework, which looked ancient, was installed by master stonemason Dario Camacho. His unique style became so popular customers began referring to it as “Dario style.”

The purchase of an antique Amish barn, brought from Ohio and, once again, painstakingly rebuilt, piece by piece, showcased the simplistic beauty of the wood and its design and is now known as the Great Hall. Measures were taken to make sure the small cross etched into the wood on the outside of the barn was on display. It was a symbol, used by the Underground Railroad, as a secret message denoting a haven for escaped slaves.

The gnarled trees that had grown up and across the dirt path to Sacred Oaks gave this outdoor wedding venue a mystical feel. As the sun dappled through the trees, we walked up to the arch and in front of the empty chairs, set up in rows, had an impromptu vow renewal ceremony. Walking back, the Camp Lucy logo, a heart-shaped emblem and a Vietnamese symbol for love and family, kept appearing on tiles and stones. When we returned to our room, complimentary gold-covered chocolate strawberries awaited our arrival. Another perfect day at Camp Lucy.

Author’s Note:
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Duende 

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A chimpanzee and flamenco dance lessons; that’s all I wanted when I was 12 years old. The chimp never materialized, but many years later the flamenco lessons did. It was my mom that found the classes through the Chicago Park District. At a cost of $25 for six sessions on a Saturday morning, it was hard to decline. We excitedly signed up together.

First things first; this called for some shopping. It went without saying that for us to do our best, we had to look the part. It took some time to choose just the right flamenco shoes, flared long skirt and fitted top. We tried them on over and over again and had fun twirling around and breaking them in.

The class was held in the guest house behind an old mansion that the Park District now owned. Arriving early, I had time to explore. The stone structure was now one big room, with only a narrow path and some boulders separating it from Lake Michigan. I didn’t realize then how inspiring it would be to dance while watching the water “dance” outside along with us. 

I must admit, I was a bit taken aback when Señora walked into the class that first day. She was older than I had expected with a soft body and a lined face. Her hair was pulled back into a tight bun and her shoes looked as if they had accompanied her on many a dance floor. But, as she walked up to each of us, asked our name and gave us a welcome hug, I noticed her black eyes. They were piercing, bright, twinkling. There was something special about her. Then, without saying a word, she played a CD, started dancing and we were transfixed. At that moment, her body changed. Her posture was straight, her hand movements so elegant, her feet moving so quickly and precisely and her dark eyes sparkling. 

As she explained the class format, we focused on her every word. A combination of Spanish, Spanglish and English, it required concentration. We would be learning four Sevillanas. These are festival dances with simple choreography; easy to master for practice and training. Or were they? The class was made up of women, all ages, shapes and sizes. Initially, we all were so intent on clumping through the steps that we forgot to use any hand movements at all. I wondered how week after week Señora had the patience to watch this clumsy group assault the classic beauty of the art form that she had dedicated her life to

What the class lacked in structure, it made up for in entertainment value. Señora would stop abruptly at any time and start regaling us with a story from her colorful past. Sometimes, she’d carefully pass around a creased, yellowed article featuring her and her husband; a handsome young couple; carefree and excited for where life would lead them. From these snippets, we were able to piece together her life story. 

Growing up in Spain, she had learned flamenco at an early age and had excelled at it. She had caught the eye of a young man in her village, a bit older than she, who convinced her parents that she should join him and his musicians and go on tour. From then on, she lived and breathed flamenco. After performing all over Europe, they immigrated to the U.S. and danced in Las Vegas, getting to know all the big stars of the time and living large. Señora’s husband was not a businessman, so when his health deteriorated and he ultimately died, she was left with nothing but her memories. 

Each Saturday, we’d arrive early to class and stay late, hoping for another story or anecdote, so were disappointed when a stern, young woman was waiting for us this particular morning. She told us her mother was not well and she would be taking over the class. Based on her demeanor, we could tell that she wanted to be anywhere but there. We tried asking questions, but she stoically answered as little as possible. 

Nothing was the same. I gave up hope that I would ever speak to Señora again, until I noticed that the young woman was on her cellphone one day and I politely asked if it was Señora. If so, could I please speak with her? I was so happy to hear the combination of languages that I could now magically decipher. I asked about her health and told her how much she was missed. I asked if we could come visit her, but she said it wouldn’t be a good idea.

I didn’t know if I would ever get the chance to speak with her again and didn’t want to hang up. I was looking for something from this woman who sparkled, who had lived through the ups and downs of her life with such vivacity, such robustness. “What is your secret?,” I asked. She seemed to know exactly what I was referring to and responded with one word. “Duende,” she said softly. 

This Spanish term refers to a magical spirit and was traditionally used in flamenco music or other art forms to refer to the mystical or powerful force given off by a performer to draw in the audience. Nowadays, the word also refers to one’s unspoken charm or allure; that certain something that captivates. Yes, this one word encapsulated Señora and duende seemed to be the Latin version of moxie.

I thought of Señora often, especially Saturday mornings, and how I never wanted to forget her influence on me. She may very well have been my inspiration for starting this blog and a way of remembering that we need to package all we were born with into one powerful fireball and use it as the spark to live the very best life we can live. 

Author’s Note:
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Seven Secrets from a Super Ager 

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I’ll never tease JC again about her early “senior dinner times.” I recently discovered that some days her schedule is so jam packed, she fits in dining when she can. Between bible study, book club, Spanish classes, ukulele lessons and Rummikub tournaments, her schedule hardly fits into the little squares of her paper calendar! Fit, healthy, taking no medication and sometimes helping me remember things I’ve forgotten, this 94 ½ year old is simply amazing

According to AARP, the Super Aging Research Initiative is studying a small group of men and women across five U.S. cities. While medical advances have helped people live longer, it’s the aging brain that usually does not match up. Super agers are defined as someone over 80 with an exceptional memory – one at least as good as a person 20 to 30 years younger. They seem to have no trouble retrieving a word or remembering a name, processing new information and multitasking. 

As it turns out, it’s not just luck or good genes that make these seniors who they are. Their lifestyle plays a big part in helping to formulate their razor-sharp thinking and memory skills. Here are a few tips from my favorite super ager: 

A positive attitude
JC just wakes up happy! Wherever she’s lived, she says she likes to start her day by looking out the window and saying “Good morning, beautiful city!” 

If her mind wanders to the past, rather than allowing herself to think about how much she misses the family and friends she has lost over the years, she’ll turn her attention to something else and try not to dwell on it.

Avoid Stress
I call JC’s ability for not letting things get under her skin, her Scarlet O’Hara philosophy. In the movie “Gone with the Wind,” the conflicted hero, Scarlet O’Hara, would always say “Fiddle Dee Dee, I’ll just think about it tomorrow,” and go about her merry way.

Take care of yourself
JC is one of those rare people that actually practices moderation. She watches her alcohol intake, eats healthy and is always watchful of her weight, making sure she can fit into the new outfits she’s purchased on her many shopping excursions. 

She absolutely hates to be ill; even getting a cold annoys her! She makes sure she sees a doctor at the slightest feeling that something is just not right. 

Socialize
A social butterfly by nature, JC can start up a conversation with almost anyone and is still known to head out solo. After returning from a recent day trip, I asked her how she decided where to sit at lunch. “Easy,” she said. “I just look for the group that is talking and laughing.”

At the senior residence where she lives, she‘s always chock full of new field trip ideas and keeps a watchful eye on their restaurants’ menu variety as a newly elected member of the resident committee.

Spirituality
JC says maintaining religious rituals, curiously examining its aspects and relying on it for comfort in difficult times plays a big role in her life. 

Keep moving: exercise your body and brain
During pleasant weather, JC walks three times a day. She knows what her body can and can’t do and doesn’t like to be told otherwise. 

An avid reader, she’ll devour books and every type of magazine, from Cosmopolitan to Archeology and Smithsonian Magazines, always remembering to pepper her conversations with an interesting fact or anecdote. 

She’s always eager and excited to learn something new. 

Be Adaptable
While her life seems almost perfect, there is one downside: JC admits she sometimes doesn’t know where she fits in. 

Realizing that at her age, it is smart for her to live somewhere safe where she can enjoy the camaraderie of others, JC says that while the residents are lovely, most are not well and not able to venture out or provide much in the way of stimulating conversation. 

Deciding she is in the need of younger friends, she has joined a church group and has already signed up for some outings and activities.

That taken care of, she can now settle down to putting the finishing touches on some upcoming travels: her grandson’s wedding and a cruise to Norway and Iceland.

Featured in the Aug. 2021 issue of Austin Fit Magazine, JC joined four other Austin seniors in sharing how to “age like an Austinite” and reminded us “It’s important to have healthy relationships and friendships, but you also have to know how to be happy and make yourself happy. It’s a balance.”

Authors Note: 
The name JC (her initials) was given to my mom years ago, back when I hired her to be my interim secretary and did not feel comfortable to ask “Any messages, Mommy?”

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Three Straightforward Ways to Ward Off Those That Aren’t Your Cup of Tea

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Twice in the same week, I was verbally “assaulted” by complete strangers. I think what struck me the most was their anger and aggressive stance over. . . actually not very much of anything. 

As I finished up on a machine at my fitness center, a woman appeared in front of me, from out of nowhere, and started scolding me loudly for not wiping down the machine with the provided disinfectant wipes. I was actually about to walk over to get some fresh wipes, but rather than respond, I just walked away, feeling her stare following me as I did.

A couple of days later, I was at the grocery store, in deep concentration in the fruit aisle contemplating as to how many bananas I should buy. An older man, started walking directly toward me, pulled the bananas right out of my hand and yelled “Oh, no, you’re not going to start breaking apart the bunches!” He put them in his basket and walked away, leaving me standing there stunned.

More than once, I’ve tuned in to a favorite podcast, but instead- another one would magically start to play. It happened again. This time, it was Joel Osteen, televangelist and bestselling author and the title was “Dealing with Difficult People.” Needless to say, it received all my attention. 

Disinfectant wipes and bananas aside, I think Osteen would have been proud of my reaction. In both cases, the sun was shining out and I was having such a great day, I didn’t want the negativity of strangers to spoil it. He makes it a point to remind you to not let anyone steal your joy. 

In theory that sounds like a good rule to follow, but I wonder how flexible I would have been, had this been a situation with a family member or close friend. With that in mind, I paid attention to some of Osteen’s suggestions: 

1.Strive to take the high road. 

The phrase “Take the high road” became popular during Thomas Dewey’s 1948 presidential campaign, which explained his reaction against Harry Truman’s dirty campaign tactics. 

It’s not always easy to turn the other cheek. In researching, I found taking the high road doesn’t actually refer to forgiving someone or keeping them in the picture, it means not retaliating. That’s a big difference.

Osteen says we should all strive to be eagles. His analogy describes the difficult people in our lives as crows, always antagonizing their prey, while eagles fly higher, above all the contention, resisting the temptation to take the bait.

2.Keep your expectations realistic

According to Psychology Today, “Expectations are premeditated resentments.” The term, used in many 12 step programs, helps us understand that if we expect others to act in ways that are not consistent with their own interests, they will probably resist our expectations. While letting go of expectations is difficult, think of how much disappointment we could avoid. 

Of course, there’s the other side of this theory that relates to positive thinking, the law of attraction and how you have the power to actually steer things your way. Check out my blog post “Unearthing the Paths to Positive Thinking.”

3. Success is the best revenge

Rather than waste your time and energy on reviewing an unpleasant scenario over and over again in your head and plotting on how you plan to get even, why not just redirect that power into a positive direction?

Smile down – from your eagle perch – at those you are not connecting with, channel your animosity, anger and negativity and use it to empower and motivate yourself to achieve your goals. It will last longer than the satisfaction received from revenge and be much sweeter in the long run. 

As televangelists are famous for, Osteen dramatically uses revivalist-style preaching when he asks his audience to imagine they are being anointed with the “oil of joy,” whereby nothing can stick to them and negativity just slides right off. 

I don’t know about you, but I would be the first one on line at Costco to purchase their new product: the ten-gallon plastic container size of oil of joy, complete with a handy spray bottle for quick anointings. 

Author’s Note:
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Image by Emily_WillsPhotography from Pixabay

Navigating Royal Caribbean’s Allure of the Seas: When the Going Gets Large, Think Small!

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We were on a mission; celebrating birthdays left us no choice, but to book a seven-day cruise over the Fourth of July weekend on one of the largest cruise ships in the Royal Caribbean fleet. While larger ships are known to cater to families and children, with a little research and planning, we were able to turn our trip into an enjoyable, adults only vacation.

Rather than fly to our cruise ship departure location, we decide to choose a ship leaving out of Galveston, Texas and drive there. Since we always fly one day ahead to avoid unforeseen mishaps, we also plan to drive ahead of time.

Rather than stay in Galveston, which is quite pricy, we opt for an overnight stop in Sugar Land, Texas, with its lovely Marriott Hotel located in the town’s Market Square amid shops and restaurants. Sugar Land was named for housing the headquarters of the Imperial Sugar Company for two centuries, which was the major U.S. sugar producer at the time.

We reserve and pre-pay for an indoor parking spot at the pier in Galveston. From there, it’s smooth sailing, as the shuttle takes us to the terminal and we are right on schedule for our timed entry on to the ship.

Making our way through a sea of people as we enter on to Royal Caribbean’s Allure of the Seas, we are greeted by rock music and blinking lights. This ship is a floating city and we are feeling a bit intimidated by its sheer size, but are reassured to find out the Allure has won awards for best large cruise ship, best entertainment and best individual ship.

Thank goodness for the friendly staff, decked out in cowboy hats, waiting to attend to our every need. With iPads in hand and with no waiting on line, they quickly secure us reservations at the complimentary shows and a time for dinner in the dining room each evening. Pointing us in the direction of our cabin we, along with the other 5491 passengers (almost double the usual capacity), set out for parts unknown.

                                                                                                                                 Central Park

Our steward welcomes us warmly and after a few minutes of unpacking, we can’t wait to head out and explore. Should we play mini golf, ice skate, climb the rock wall, go zip lining or try out the FlowRider, a 40-foot long surf simulator? We’ll need to visit the Boardwalk and ride the carousel later, but for now, we opt for a stroll through the weaving paths of Central Park, impressed with the real plants and nature sounds piped into the outdoor area and stop at the Rising Tide bar (one of 13 bars on the ship), eager to ride up and down three decks as we enjoy cocktails.

                                                         The Champagne Bar

Rather than the outdoor bars, more conducive to family gatherings, we find that many of the other choices provide a nice start to our evening. We decide the Champagne and Schooner Bars are our favorites. After dinner, its dancing to live music at Boleros or Dazzles.

It’s always a good idea to make a dinner reservation in the main dining room. We are pleased with our table location for the week and the adult occupied tables all-around us. Our wait staff is delightful; professional and so personable, even though in subsequent conversations they share that they all have signed a six to eight month contract and work seven days a week.

                                                                                                                         The Main Dining Room

It amazes us that each evening, each course is beautifully presented, delicious and served at just the right temperature, meaning soups are actually served hot! Even though there are a total of 19 restaurants on board, we choose not to reserve any premium priced options and concur we enjoy the dining rooms over the fast food/buffet options for breakfast and lunch.

We agree the complimentary shows are some of the best we’ve enjoyed on any cruise we’ve sailed on. Momma Mia, a two-and a half-hour production, rivals any Broadway show. The choreography and acrobatics enhanced by the theatrical technology gives Blue Planet an ethereal quality. Blades features professional ice skating and acrobatics combined with amazing stunts and dazzling costumes. We are at the edge of our seats at the open air AquaTheater watching OceanAria, as award winning divers and acrobats go from high diving to trampolining on surfaces that change before your eyes. The comedy performers round out the entertainment and between all that is offered, we are spoiled with a show a night.

Since we’d already been to our ship’s ports, Roatan, Honduras, Costa Maya and Cozumel, Mexico, we set out to see the towns in the morning, then head back to the ship to enjoy its solitude. We have the gym and walking track to ourselves. We relax over quiet lunches and take advantage of the complimentary services offered at the spa, with no waiting in line. Though we still prefer the adult only deck, we are able to choose our favorite chair at any of the pools.

After only a few days, even I, known to be directionally challenged, can maneuver all over the gigantic ship. And just when it’s all starting to feel like home, we’re heading back, but I do so with a smile on my face. Royal Caribbean’s Allure of the Seas has demonstrated an impressive model of community, with its 2384 staff members from 70 different countries working together to bring the best experience to its guests.

                                                                                                Room birthday decorations, compliments of my mom’s steward.

Author’s Note:
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Mocktails for Two?

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Someone was trying to tell me something. In the course of one week, I received three messages that arrived in three different ways. Needless to say, they all grabbed my attention:

Dr. Lori Palazzo

I had just finished a story for the Georgetown View about a primary care doctor that closed her practice in order to focus on integrative medicine; finding the root cause of an illness and treating it with healthy supplements and diet, rather than just prescribing another pill.

I wondered how I could politely broach the question of why patients would pay “out of pocket” for her services that were not covered by health insurance. By the time our interview was over, I knew exactly why.

Apparently, Mr. Wiz,* my copy editor, realized it too. By the time he finished reading the story, he turned to me and said “I think I’ll make an appointment to see Dr. P before your article is published and she gets swamped with calls.”

I joined Mr. Wiz on each of his appointments during the three month program he had signed up for. During that course of time, he/we learned how to read food labels, started focusing more on a vegetarian diet (consisting of whole grains, veggies, legumes, fruits and nuts) and stopped drinking alcohol.

The blood and stool tests, much more comprehensive, revealed some issues that could be treated with nutritional supplements. Soon, Mr. Wiz was off three medications and had shed 15 pounds. I was feeling better too.

Green Chef

Out of the blue, Big A* sent us a coupon to try a new food delivery system he and LL* had started using. They highly recommended it for its flavor and portion control.

Excited, we sat down immediately at the computer to choose our meals and decided it was a good time to try the vegetarian options. Worrying it might be too difficult to cancel if we didn’t like it, we closed out of it and forgot about it…until a carton arrived a few days later with four meals!

I like to cook, but it was nice to not have to plan and shop for meals for a change. Every ingredient except butter, oil, salt and pepper is included in each package and menu cards give detailed cooking instructions. Just when you think you can recreate these delicious meals on your own, you open up the sauce packet and realize the amazing “secret sauces” cannot be replicated.

We’ve found having four night’s meals delivered every other week is a good balance and has elevated our culinary palate, introducing us to new spices and flavor combinations. Surprisingly, this self- proclaimed “meat girl” has welcomed the new veggie diet and never looked back.

Sober Curious by Ruby Warrington

I was at the gym and tuned in to my favorite podcast. Strangely, it somehow skipped to one I hadn’t listened to in a long while. All of a sudden, Ruby Warrington was being interviewed about her book “Sober Curious.” I was so shocked, but something told me to keep listening. I then read the book and it’s helped me realize/figure out a few things.

Never preachy and with a dry wit, Warrington gives her take on why we should reevaluate our relationship with alcohol. Her Club Soda NYC events grew from a few interested people meeting in her living room to hundreds of young professionals gathering for mocktails, panel discussions and socializing. The book, published in 2018, has been the catalyst for a new movement that elevates sobriety from church basement A.A. meetings to a hip lifestyle where it’s celebrated.

After four months of not drinking alcohol, I can assure you the hardest part is not the drinking, per se, it’s the ceremony around it. With no wine to discuss, order or enjoy, on our first evening dining out, we were finished and back in the restaurant parking lot 21 minutes later.

Eat, Drink and be Merry Confused

With an overabundance of information in my head, kale on my plate and club soda in my frig, I set out to find where I truly belonged in all of these lifestyle changes/trends.

Ben Branson, founder of Seedip, an alcohol-free distiller, believes we are now defining ourselves by what we don’t do. He says “Suddenly, someone who doesn’t do things becomes a better person: “I don’t eat meat,” or “I don’t smoke,” or “I don’t drink alcohol.”

Rosamund Dean’s book “Mindful Drinking” gave those who didn’t want to totally abstain from liquor an approach where you drink less and think about it more. As she says “Everyone is either a wine guzzling party animal or a clean-living health freak. Personally, I believe the middle ground is the healthiest place to be.”

I would like to introduce you to the new me. I am a mindful drinker, with a newfound respect for alcohol and a goal not to imbibe Monday – Thursday. Continuing in that vein, I am a flexitarian- a vegetarian that may eat meat, poultry and fish on occasion.

I am a believer the real message I received that fateful week was that gray is the new black and white!

*Who’s who? See “Cast of Characters” on the “About” page.

Image by Gabriele M. Reinhardt from Pixabay

Author’s Note:
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Stepping Up and Out in Croatia- October 2022

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Traveling to Croatia is not for the faint of heart. Between the uneven steps everywhere, that seem to lead to the sky, and the steep limestone streets, worn to a lovely patina, but slippery when wet, you would be smart to come prepared with sneakers/walking shoes. That said, every step you take will be well worth it!

Located in Southeastern Europe, this small country borders Slovenia, Hungary and Serbia. Situated on the Adriatic Sea, Croatia has strived to keep its head above water since the 7th century by being innovative and one step ahead of its enemies. Curving the massive stone walls that protected its cities, this design was more resistant to cannon fire than straight sided fortresses. This helped protect their trading port that rivaled Venice. This small, but mighty country has worked hard to stay afloat, especially after its devastating civil war in the 1990’s. 

The red tiled roofs on the homes nestled into the limestone hills gives the scenery a Mediterranean look, as the Adriatic Sea sparkles below. Blessed with a perfect climate, ancient sites, wonderful food and a grasp of the importance of hospitality, Croatia has become a top tourist destination. 

Touting itself as the quintessential summer destination, massive crowds from over ten cruise ships docking at once have caused their UNESCO World Heritage Site status to be in question. In October, prices drop, crowds dwindle and with temperatures in the 70’s, you can still swim (bring your flip flops; beaches are rocky).

Split
Our taxi stops abruptly. The driver tells us in broken English that he cannot drive any further into the Old City. Just when we’re wondering which way to walk, we see Mario running towards us calling our name. Sent from the hotel to personally carry our luggage and walk us to our hotel, we are already impressed with the Marmont Heritage Hotel. It’s a charming, small hotel (21 rooms) with views of Old Town and Diocletian Palace.

At first glance, Croatia’s second largest city seems so perfect. With its striking scenery and palm trees all overlooking the bright blue Adriatic Sea, it looks like a movie set. Actually, Game of Thrones was filmed throughout Croatia. 

Built in the 4th century AD, by the Roman Emperor, Diocletian, his Palace’s preserved remains form half of Old Town. Museums, shops, restaurants and over 1000 people reside within the walls of the UNESCO World Heritage Site. It’s hard to fathom the historical significance and sheer age of the sights before you.

Diocletian’s mausoleum has been repurposed into the Cathedral of St. Duje and stands as the oldest cathedral in the world. You can enjoy a coffee or a cocktail, sitting on a pillow on the steps of Peristil Square, the original Roman court. Even the Kappa traditional music performed in the square has been granted UNESCO status. The steps taper as you climb the bell tower, but the view at the top is worth it. Make sure to rub the toe of the Grgur Ninski statue for good luck. 

A cocktail with a view is our reward for walking up the steep hill and the many steps amid a forest of pine trees and a peak into an old Jewish cemetery, on our way to Marjan, a hill on the peninsula of the city. Our first Croatian meal introduces us to their Italian influenced cuisine. At Apetit, a 15th century palazzo, the four of us dine on eggplant tempura, seabass, black rice made with squid ink and beef with gnocchi; sharing prevents having to choose just one entrée. After dinner, there’s still time for a lovely stroll on The Riva, the promenade known as “Split’s living room.”.

Hvar
The catamaran from Split to Hvar is large, with comfortable seats and beautiful views. We are warmly welcomed at the dock by a hotel representative, who scoops up our luggage and leads the way. 

This picturesque city has that Wow Factor. The boats and yachts regally swaying in the harbor, the wide, café lined walkways bordering the sea perfect for people watching, this town is sophisticated enough for Prince Harry sightings (pre-Meghan), but casually elegant, so that the city seems unaffected by it all. Metal signs politely announce the fines imposed for improper behavior. Diagonal red lines through a series of drawings get the point across: no bathing suits and no public consumption of alcohol along the main thoroughfares. 

Any hotel that welcomes you with champagne at check-in quickly rises to a favorite. The Adriana Hotel and Spa is contemporary and tastefully furnished in soft colors, but adding just a touch of blue, everywhere you look, to remind you the sea is nearby. Our room is a relaxing haven with spectacular views and an impressive two-person jacuzzi. The hotel’s outdoor pool, patio area and indoor infinity pool remind us to save time to experience them all. With displays of food that are almost too beautiful to eat, such as honey slowly dripping from its honeycomb into a silver bowl, this could very well be the best buffet breakfast we’ve ever encountered. 

It’s a 25-minute walk up to Fortica Spanjola, the town’s fortress and a 16th century prison, but the views make it worthwhile. According to local law, it was abandoned and left for the fairies to dance in at night. That story, along with the gardens and walkways that zig zag down the hill and lead to patios and homes built into the side of the hill, give the area a magical feel. 

We didn’t come all this way to not swim in the Adriatic Sea. We cross the rocky beach and take turns climbing down a ladder into the water. It’s not what we expected, but once we are swimming, it’s hard not to remain a bit longer.

Dalmatino, with its wonderful food served by a highly professional, yet personable staff, gets our vote for our favorite meal. A “Booze Bouche” of carob and brandy playfully replaces the usual Amuse Bouche. Feasting on tuna tartare, gnocchi, sea bass and filet, we couldn’t resist sharing a piece of grandma’s homemade cake. 

The live music we hear coming from the bar, Central Park, perks us up and we decide to stop for a nightcap. Many nightcaps and dances later, we have made some new friends from Canada and Sweden

Dubrovnik 
After another smooth catamaran ride, we arrive at Dubrovnik’s busy port and secure a taxi to our hotel. The Hotel Imperial Dubrovnik is a Hilton property. Classically elegant, its housed in a historic building, just outside the walls of Old Town, dating back to 1897.

Old Town is known as being one of the most perfectly preserved medieval cities in the world. Traffic free and surrounded by rugged limestone mountains and the sun dabbled Adriatic Sea, its steep, winding steps and narrow walkways lure you into the joy of wandering around until you get lost.

It’s a tourist tradition to walk the wall and you’ll pay $33 for the privilege. Be prepared for very steep steps to get to the top, then it’s a 1¼ mile walk all around. Enjoy amazing views, and cafes and shops to stop at along the way. 

Banje Beach is just a short walk from Old Town. Nestled within the impressive coastline, it’s not a sandy beach, but at least pebbles have replaced the rocks we encountered in Hvar and It’s hard not to spend the entire day swimming.

While we did enjoy the dark, quaint Bakus Wine Bar and our chat with a couple from England, the Buza Bar is not to be missed. You enter through a hole in the wall (“buza” is Croatian for hole) and come out the other side to view a bar and tables built on the cliffs. Included in our visit was a show; teenagers jumping from the cliffs, down 30 feet into the water!

The Forty-Four Restaurant stood out, not only for its food, but its presentation. The server wore white gloves and the breaded artichokes with cheese, Korčula macaroni with beef and goat cheese and sea bass with chick peas, swiss chard and tomatoes were creatively served in lovey pottery dishes. 

“Forced” to stay an extra day due to flight changes and with our hotel sold out, we head to the Prijeko Palace for the night. With assistance of the Croatian government, the 15th century palace has been renovated back to its former glory, with a quirky twist. Each of the nine rooms/suites are colorfully decorated in styles ranging from modern to Baroque. The avant-garde rooms are the backdrop for the explosions of photography that line the walls. 

Our travel partners having left for Italy. It’s just the two of us and we decide on a romantic dinner at the palace’s rooftop terrace restaurant, Stara Loza. We are surprised to see what looks like a young girl sitting on the ledge of the wall, but realize it’s an incredible lifelike, life- size sculpture. We smile to think their art had its way of startling us again. 

With lovely vistas of the city, we dine on tuna tartare, veal risotto and squid with potatoes and avocado. It’s one of those perfect evenings. I smile at the older French couple sitting next to us and say ‘Isn’t this just one of the best places in the world?!” That leads to a discussion of their favorite travel destinations.

I take a moment to jot them all down and smile, thinking how this wonderful adventure we’ve had has culminated into a list of where we need to head to next. 

Oct. 8 – 11: Sobrado to Santiago de Compostela 

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Oct. 8: Sobrado
Once again, we are dumbfounded to find that, even with all our searching weeks prior, we are unable to find a place to stay at the next stop. Keeping our new mantras in mind, we realize there’s nothing to do, but taxi on to Sobrado.

Sobrado is another small, old town with not much personality, but what makes it stand out is the Monasterio de Santa María de Sobrado de los Monjes. Originally built in 952, the monestary suffered devastation throughout the years until renovation began in 1954. Today, it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Devoid of furnishings, the starkness of the massive structure inside juxtaposes with the highly decorative Baroque architecture outside. You can see where the large central chimney and fireplace were added to create a kitchen in 1250 and imagine the monks huddling there to keep warm during the brutal Galician winters. The sound of the wind streaming through the cracks of the moss covered walls and the eerie silence in the cloister create a mystical feel.

Originally over 100 monks were assigned to the monestary, but now only 14 call this enormous structure home. Within the buildings is an albergue where you, along with 200 other pilgrims, can stay overnight for €6.

Actually, the Hotel San Marcus, our stop for the night, is also quite basic. Our unadorned room is clean and we prepare our own complimentary breakfast.

Oct. 9: Arzúa – 15 miles
Pavement is much harder on the feet and legs, so the trek today through small farm towns makes us a bit weary. To keep our spirits up, we chat with pilgrims from Ireland and South America. Our new Korean friend speaks no English or Spanish, but when we tell him we’re from Texas, he does know the word “cowboy” and makes it a point to yell it, smile and wave wherever he sees us.

We stop to chat with a “señora” (older woman) picking vegetables in her garden. She tells us what she’s picking and how she will prepare them. Funny, we pass all these gardens, yet you seldom see fruits or vegetables on restaurant menus- only lots of potatoes and salads.

We find a bench to sit and rest and an older man stops to greet us. He takes Michael’s hands in his and says “guapo” (handsome). Rather than reaching for my hands, he places his weathered hands on my cheeks, looks me right in the eyes, smiles and says “guapa” (pretty). For the rest of the afternoon, I feel as if I’ve had a blessing bestowed on me and keep thinking of that lovely old man.

Today, we’ve connected with the “Camino Frances” (French route) on our way to Santiago. Pilgrims can earn their “Compostela” (proof of pilgrimage document) by walking the 100 km (62 miles) from Sarria. Unfortunately, this route travels through older towns with little to no personality.

The Hotel Arzua is clean, but, once again, it’s rooms are unadorned. We give it the best shower award and are excited to be served eggs for breakfast.

Oct. 10: O Pedrouzo- 14 miles
After a nice breakfast, we’re disappointed to see it’s started raining. Outside, there’s a sea of peregrinos, all walking in the same direction. We laugh and agree it looks like rush hour in New York City.

There are no “Holas” or “Buen Caminos” this morning. Everyone is trudging along, with their heads down and hoods up. Good thing the paths are wide, in order to accommodate so many. We immediately sense a different vibe and after only a few minutes, we agree we already miss the quiet and the camaraderie of the Northern route.

Rather than comment about the nondescript O Pedrouzo and the Pension Residencia Platas, here’s a taste of some Spanish culinary humor I came across along the way:

                 Restaurant name was not reflected in waiter’s dress code.

Oct. 11: Santiago de Compostela – 14 miles
It is with mixed emotions that I put on my shoes for the last of our treks this morning. This time, I switched from wearing Merrell hiking boots to Hoka Trail Runners and I’m happy to report I have not suffered from one blister the entire trip!

Every place in town that’s open for breakfast is packed. I assist in ordering for some American pilgrims who seem overwhelmed and just want their “huevo fritos, tostada, zumo de naranja y cafe con leche” (fried eggs, toast, orange juice and cappuccino) so they can be on their way. Through farm towns and forests, the paths are wide and crowded. We chat with pilgrims from New York City and Texas, who are already planning their second Camino.

I remember this next part well; the excitement of seeing the city sign for Santiago, then realizing there’s still three miles to go to get to “Casco Viejo” (Old Town). This part of Santiago is an older business district, but then the streets start to narrow and wind. As we head to the entrance of the dark tunnel, we hear the sound of bagpipes and I get chills.

We come out the other side to see the sun shining on the magnificent Cathedral; a breathtaking site. The square is a sea of pilgrims hugging, laughing, crying, taking photos or just sitting/laying on the ground, taking it all in. Always a bit emotional, we hug and shed a few tears, though we’re not sure why. Are we happy or sad to be at the end of this long journey?

The streets are closed to traffic and there’s a feeling of celebration everywhere, as cafes, restaurants and shops overflow with tourists and pilgrims. We laugh that it’s easy to tell the difference. The pilgrims are the ones wearing the flip flops, a welcome respite from those big boots/shoes.

The Cathedral, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, was constructed between 1075 and 1211. Once again, I am mesmerized by its richly decorated Baroque interior all in gold, both grandiose and serene at the same time. Beneath the altar lies the tomb of St. James, a venerable site.

Give us a hotel with some stone and a few wooden beams and we’re happy, so even though we have to move hotels after day one, the Hostal Aires Nunes and Hostal San Clemente are sister hotels, close by and offer similar design.

We are enthralled with the history of the Camino at the Museum of Pilgrimage, get some more walking in at Parque Alameda and find a beautiful quiet spot for a glass of wine, away from the crowds, in the garden patio of the Hotel Costa Vella.

Each night, as I lay my head on my pillow, my mind starts to wander, as I sift through all the Camino experiences dancing in my head:

  • The deep connection forged with strangers, people I was always taught not to talk to.
  • The simple rhythm of each day and the freedom from the obligations of daily life.
  • The feeling of being stripped of your identity, as you take on the role of just another pilgrim.
  • How humility, gratitude and simplicity, once just words, will begin weaving themselves into my life.
  • The realization of the importance of taking one step at a time.
  • The privilege of discovering Spanish culture in slow motion.

Then, as I fall asleep to the sound of the Cathedral bells, I realize there’s nothing to do now, but sit back and let the magic of the Camino take over. There will be a lot for me to unpack once I get home.

Oct. 3 – 7: Villamartin Grande to Vilalba

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Oct. 3: Villamartin Grande – 15 miles
There’s lots of conversation this morning between us, a man from Minnesota and a family from Alaska and Seattle. We’re back and forth between dirt and pavement. Once we all separate to walk at our own pace, the absolute quiet is startling, but wonderful.

Walking through the province of Asturias, their was a ruggedness to the landscape. Now in Galicia, the farmlands take on the look of a patchwork quilt. The different colors of green highlight the plow lines creating a unique design on each plot of land, some so vertical it makes you wonder how any machinery can navigate it.

You can hear a pin drop in the tiny village of Villamartin Grande. As we approach what we think is the albergue we have reserved, a sign says “Cerrado” (closed). For a moment, we are standing in shock alongside some French pilgrims, who also have a reservation, until we realize the sign is on the cafe, closed today for an emergency.

We are welcomed into Tentempé Peregrino and get settled. It’s plain and clean and we are glad they are offering a pilgrim meal, since there seems to be no other dining options available. A pilgrim’s meal is a gathering of pilgrims who come together over a meal. Sometimes it is prepared for you and sometimes you assist in its preparation.

Seven of us dine together (us along with another couple from Texas and three pilgrims from France). We all speak just enough of another language to be able to communicate. We talk and laugh while enjoying the the wine, the homemade meal and the camaraderie. Hard to believe two and a half hours ago, we were total strangers.


Oct. 4: Mondoñedo – 14 miles
A rooster’s crow disturbs the morning silence. We walk with the Texas couple and stop to admire the spider webs in various designs that adorn the fences. Fog and mist have crept in and surrounded the area, giving the landscape that mystical feel Galicia is known for.

We’re treated to a little bit of every surface today: pavement through towns and dirt paths in forests, with several steep ups and downs. Every day, townspeople walking greet us and point the way, cars beep their horns and wave. Mondoñedo is such an old town that the cars actually seem out of place. The Hotel Montero is both an albergue and a hotel. It’s plain, but clean and on the Camino route.

This trip, I was glad I asked both a yoga and fitness instructor for a suggested stretching workout. We’ve done it religiously every day and it’s seems to have made a difference. Each evening, we lie down backwards on the bed with our legs straight up against the headboard. The reverse blood flow works wonders. Sometimes our feet throb so much, they feel as if they have a heartbeat of their own.

Oct. 5: Abadin – 10 miles
The morning starts with a dilemma: should we take the shorter, but steeper mountain route and save three miles? Both routes have no services, but we are carrying enough water, some apples and in case of emergency, we can always break out our cocktail nuts. We opt for the mountain route. We’re above tree line and it’s cool, windy and quiet, but not as steep as we expected.

We’re told there is no reason for a map in this small, old town, so we are greatly impressed by Albergue Xabarin. Very contemporary in a gray and white color scheme, there’s great attention to detail. Colorful modern art by Spanish painter Pedro Campos Diaz graces the walls and it’s hard to believe they are actually paintings, not photographs. It’s a treat to prepare our own complimentary breakfast in the amazing stainless steel kitchen.

Oct. 6 – 7: Vilalba – 14 miles
Every morning when the alarm goes off, I give the weather report from bed. While it’s a good way to start the day, it may also be an excuse to stay under the covers just a bit longer. I’m sure if I start announcing the barometric pressure and due point I’ll be found out.

It’s drizzling, misting and cloudy, but at least the terrain is flat. With the sound of cow bells in the distance, we are navigating what looks like lime green Nerf Balls all over the ground, but in reality are chestnuts. Everywhere we go, we see townspeople crushing the Nerf layer with their foot, then collecting buckets of the chestnuts that are inside. We’ve come this far to not trip over a chestnut!

The sound of cow bells start to get closer and closer, until we find ourselves pushed off the road, which becomes a cow crossing.

Today, Michael and I met 42 years ago, so we decide to celebrate and stay at the Parador de Vilalba. It’s a small, quiet town and the perfect place to relax and enjoy a romantic dinner and reminisce. Located in the city’s old quarter, the hotel was designed around the tower that dates back to medieval times. From the hotel, a glass enclosed walkway leads to the tower and its exquisite Great Room.