Tag Archives: Linda Thornton

The Bounty Hunter of Bad Customer Service

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Around these parts, and to family and friends, I am known as “The Bounty Hunter of Bad Customer Service”. Just as a dog will not let go of his bone – come to think of it, I also have trouble releasing a half-eaten prime rib bone – I will chase you down with all that I’ve got. 

It all started back when JC* was moving into a senior residence in Chicago. Many Excel spread sheets and visits later, we had chosen what we thought to be the best of the best, but things began to down spiral quickly. 

Unanticipated stress replaced excitement when I had to step in and take over for the moving coordinator, who seemed to lack any training in long distance moves. The lovely gesture of a sign on the apartment front door would have been much appreciated if it hadn’t read “Welcome Home, Gloria.” Worst of all, JC did not receive an invitation to the new resident birthday surf and turf luncheon. That snub was the final straw. 

I did some research and found out that this senior residence was in negotiations to link their services with the hospital that I was working for. I called and made an appointment with both the director and customer service coordinator to discuss my mom’s disappointment. Dressed for success, I carried a brief case with the hospital name on it; a handy prop. 

I was angry, but decided that the best approach would be to tug at their heart strings. I presented my case: I had faith in them, put my mom in their hands and their incompetence resulted in her feeling abandoned. 

I was prepared when they asked how they could repair the damage done. How about three limo rides at no charge – the residence had a limo available for hire – and dinner for four – mom and family – during lobster month at elegant – and pricey – Palm Restaurant? I produced a letter that I would email to them; all they had to do was copy and paste it onto their stationery. 

At that point, I unleashed my secret weapon, which has never let me down. I stopped talking, tilted my head slightly to one side and just looked at them. No number of words can replace the discomfort of stone-cold silence. 

The letter was delivered to JC later that day. She did enjoy her new home for a while, until she called a family meeting, announced that the residents were too old, and moved to a nearby condo. 

Since then, with a combination of tenacity, a genteel manner, meticulous research, and the silent treatment, I have been able to:

  • Enlist the help of the Department of Consumer Services in Chicago to track down a dead- beat contractor and obtain $12,000 in restitution.
  •  Collaborate with the University of Houston Law Center and receive complimentary assistance to persuade a corporation that paying in full for a storage locker was in their best interest due to an incorrect apartment floor plan. 
  • Travel free with my family on the AVE, the high-speed train, from Barcelona to Madrid, Spain when our credit card concierge forgot to email the tickets to our hotel.
  • Convince the airlines why the receipts for the contents of my lost luggage were no longer available and shop for replacement belongings with the $500 they offered. 
  • Enjoy a complimentary breakfast, lunch, dinner, or hotel stay when the initial experience was not up to par. 

Sometimes it’s important to take a stand. With a little effort, the frustration and disappointment you experienced can be resolved to your benefit. I can still see the smile on JC’s face when they tied on her lobster bib and when she called me from her limo and told me to look out my window, then stood up and waved out the top of the limo as it cruised past my building down Lake Shore Drive. 

Author’s Note:

*JC”: My lovely mom and best girlfriend. She received the name “JC” – her initials – back when I hired her to be my interim secretary, and did not feel comfortable saying “Any messages, Mommy?” 

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Decision Making: Lessons From Veggies, So You Don’t Get Steamed

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Pity the poor cauliflower. Known as one of the world’s healthiest vegetables, he was content to swim in an occasional warm cheese sauce or crisp under some butter and breadcrumbs. Life was good until some overzealous chefs convinced this seasoned, yet impulsive veggie to recreate himself as a starch. So much for snap decisions…

Now labelled as a faux, the once proud cauliflower graces dinner tables masquerading as rice or mashed potatoes, leaving foodies thrilled to discover a new craze. At the same time, he remains confused as to his station, both in life and on the buffet line.

I don’t usually look to vegetables for life lessons, but in this case, I’ve made an exception. Having to choose between two or more courses of action can be quick and trivial or agonizingly life changing. Decisions constantly confront us, and each person’s approach differs. Whether we do endless research, toss a coin, or just put it off, we realize that sooner or later, we need to deal with it.

According to the website skillsyouneed.com, the best method to help you come to a conclusion is to apply a combination of both intuition (that gut feeling) and reasoning (using facts and past experiences). Here are some simple steps to help improve the decision-making process:-

  • Brainstorm: What are all the possible options available? 
  • Time factor: How long do you have to make a decision? Will the delay affect the outcome?
  • Information Gathering: Research will help your confidence level. 
  • Risk factors: Consider the worst possible outcome. Is it better to be safe? 
  • Pros and cons: Put a line down the middle of a page and get to work. 
  • Make the decision: Don’t let yourself have any “what ifs” and move forward.

Here are some methods I did not notice on the above list: 

  • Fortunetelling: I still get chills when I think of the fortuneteller I met in a New York City restaurant many years ago. She was in the middle of guiding me in making some important decisions and then disappeared, never to be heard from again. 
  • The Ann Landers syndicated newspaper column: For 56 years, the column doled out advice and helped America make decisions from meatloaf ingredients to family disputes. 
  • The pieces of paper that we folded up as children, wrote a series of end results down on each fold, then manipulated them in our hands to see which one it would open to. 
  • The Eight Ball: My grade school friends and I would take turns asking the magic ball a question. After turning it around a few times, the answer would magically appear and the yes, no, or maybe response always seemed to be the answer we had hoped for. 

And now, back to cauliflower. Not wanting to be considered a flash in the pan, he spiced up his life and had a heated fling with a carrot, resulting in the birth of orange cauliflower. Currently fresh out of rehab, cauliflower is now busy counseling zucchini as she makes her way down that same lonely road to stardom, having made the decision to take the lead as the vegetable of choice with the Veggetti, the spiral vegetable cutter, that will turn her into carb-less pasta.

Author’s Note:
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Mad About Madison,Wisconsin!

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Once you learn a thing or two about Madison, you can relax and enjoy your time there:

  • Anywhere else in the world, a badger is a mammal that’s a member of the weasel family, but in Madison, the Wisconsin Badgers are the beloved University of Wisconsin–Madison football team. 
  • Yes, that’s a golden badger on the head of the statue of the woman that graces the top of the elegant Wisconsin Capitol Building. 
  • Should you accept a taste of a cheese curd, a favorite chewy snack, be prepared for the squeak it imparts when bitten into; a good sign that it’s fresh. 
  • Not to be confused with the cheese-shaped foam hat of the same name, a Cheesehead is also the name given to fans of the Green Bay Packers football team. 
  • Yes, that’s a giant hot dog car driving down the street! Oscar Meyer is headquartered in Madison and sometimes there are sightings of its famous Weinermobile.
  • How many cities can boast that they sit between two lakes? Lakes Monona and Mendota are like two beautiful sisters, fishing for compliments, as they try to outsparkle each other.

STAY             
As our Lyft stops in front of our destination, I immediately forget that the surrounding neighborhood is a bit old and made up of student housing- after all, over 50,000 students do call Madison their home! 

The Dylin is a modern, stylish “aparthotel” with 55 apartments – check out their other city locations at Locale. There is a general manager on site, but no front desk. Even though we’ve received the codes to the front door and to our apartment, we still feel welcomed as we enter the chic lobby and outdoor area.

A little bit apartment and a little bit boutique hotel, it is the best of both. The Tuft and Needle mattress and the Bokser bedding immediately elevate our apartment to swanky status. The washer – with available soap pods – and dryer are a nice touch. We swoon over the Fellow tea kettle and Haden toaster and coffeepot, which look like pieces of art.

PLAY
The Dylin is within walking distance to almost everything and we take advantage of the many free things to do: 

With its majestic facade and impressive rotunda, the Wisconsin State Capitol is worth a stop for a complimentary tour and the view from its observation deck. 

The University of Wisconsin–Madison is also a popular tourist attraction. Set on 930 acres of gardens and a nature preserve, the Historic Terrace at Memorial Union sits on Lake Mendota. You can relax in colorful, student-designed chairs while enjoying the view. Before you visit the Chazen Museum of Art – free and on the grounds, grab lunch from one of the many restaurants and ice cream from Babcock Hall Dairy – made on campus.

Stroll the State Street Pedestrian Mall and stop into the Madison Museum of Contemporary Art – free every day. 

Unfortunately, rain curtailed our free visits to the Henry Villas Zoo, the Dane County Farmers Market, the largest producer-only farmers market in the country, made famous on the 2024 season of Top Chef filmed in Wisconsin, and a chamber orchestra concert at Capitol Square.

HIGH LEVEL HAPPY HOUR
Yes, we are at it again, christening every city with our presence at one of their rooftop bars. Our choice, in Madison, is the AC Hotel. A warm breeze, a chilled glass of Chardonnay, and a feeling that you could reach out and touch the Capitol building; it doesn’t get any better than that. 

DINE LIKE A MADISONIAN
Enjoy a Lake View
You say “Monona” and I say “Mendota,” but either lake offers an enhanced dining experience:

It’s been a while since we’ve had French cuisine, so our mouths are watering as we head to Sardine. Our front table allows us a ringside view of Lake Monona as we settle in for a culinary feast of warm duck confit & frisée, steak frites, and seared salmon, accompanied by lentils, spinach and portobello mushrooms. 

Since 1948, the lovely Edgewater Hotel has managed to retain its elegance, having been named “Best of Madison” by Madison Magazine. We can also see why The Boat House Bar & Grill was also voted “Best restaurant with a lake view,” as we lunch on fish and chips on its dock, surrounded by blue skies and the sparkling Lake Mendota. The classy Statehouse restaurant awaits us for dinner. It’s restful evening lake view is the perfect setting for us to enjoy roast chicken with truffle mashed potatoes and salmon with a bourbon honey glaze. 

The Nostalgic Supper Club Experience
Born in the 1950s, supper clubs embraced Wisconsin and never let go. Known for their hand-muddled Brandy Old Fashioneds and a menu serving up traditional American fare – which includes their famous Friday fish fry – you can see why locals can’t get enough of their friendly social atmosphere. 

We don’t mind the 15-minute Lyft ride to Toby’s Supper Club; their 55-year-old reputation makes the trip worthwhile. Supper clubs are not known for their architectural artistry, so the old building and metal door come as no surprise. 

We take a deep breath, open the door, and are transported back in time. The bar is jam packed, and everyone is talking and laughing, including the bartenders, who don’t seem phased at all by the crowd. Oh, if those worn wooden floors could talk! The old dining room is a sea of red plastic tablecloths covering tables full of food and happy diners. We are welcomed and told how to proceed: 

  • Order a drink
  • Peruse the menu
  • Call over a server and order
  • When your dinner is ready, you will be seated. 

It doesn’t take long for us to strike up a conversation with our new standing-room-only friends, but our hunger reminds us that it’s time to order. We stop a server, who is cheery and surprisingly able to hear us over the roar of the crowd.  When she finally leads us to our table, we are struck to find the table already full, with a complimentary relish tray, rolls, butter and even cinnamon rolls – are they in case we’re still there for breakfast?! 

We order the wild caught walleye and can’t resist the pan-fried chicken, since according to the menu “If the Colonel’s chicken was this good, he would have been a General!” Included is soup or salad and a guarantee that we will not be hungry tomorrow. 

It’s been a pleasure getting to know you, Madison. We leave, reminded, once again, that every city has something to celebrate. 

Author’s Note:
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Do I Need More Pippi in My Longstocking?

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Our only similarity is that we were both born with red hair. From the first time I met her, she was my idol. She is fiercely independent, unconventional, playful and unpredictable. Her pigtails fly in the wind, her grin widens and her freckled face flushes, as she races from one adventure to the next with her best friends: her horse, her monkey and the two children that live next door to her at her home, Villa Villekula. 

Pippi Longstocking- full name Pippilotta Delicatessa Windowshade Mackrelmint Longstocking- is the figment of the imagination of Swedish author Astrid Lindgren. Recuperating from an illness, Astrid’s daughter asked her mom for a story and named the main character Pippi. Initially rejected by publishers, the books have since been translated into 76 languages and made into television shows and movies. 

As a little girl reading the books, my eyes would widen, and my heart would race; how exciting to be so free! Little did I know that my personality had already evolved, as observed by JC*. She quickly realized that, rather than inheriting her easygoing nature, my tendencies for perfection and order were thanks to my dad. 

She knew she had her hands full but guided me along with such patience. By the time she received the call that I was in the nurse’s office by second period on my first day of junior high, she was resigned to the fact that I was a bit different from other children. Apparently, I did not see the humor in being handed one of the first computerized class schedules, having only a few minutes to arrive before the bell rang and being mistakenly assigned to the boy’s bathroom, rather than a classroom. 

In my efforts to be a bit more spontaneous, I have made some major strides: 

  • I visited a model home and did not rearrange anything. 
  • I polished my fingernails a completely different color than my toenails.
  • On a whim, I changed my grocery shopping day from Friday to Thursday.
  • I double snoozed my alarm.
  • I impulsively ate four Triscuits with lunch, rather than my usual three and did not worry about biting cracker number four precisely on its horizontal markings.   
  • I went on a trip without any pre-planning, waking up each day and deciding on my next adventure. Wait a minute; that was a friend of mine that did that, not me!

Oh, to be a bit eccentric! What fun it would be to make paper airplanes out of my to do lists with my avant-garde pals. Regrettably, I am only able to participate as a spectator, realizing that the only flow I can go with is if it has first been documented on an Excel spreadsheet. 

At first, I thought that living vicariously through others was unfortunate. Then I realized that family and friends are as fascinated with my quirks as I am with theirs. They loosen me up, I keep them on track and together, we walk through life one unique step at a time.

*JC:  My lovely mom and my best girlfriend. She received the name “JC” years ago – her initials – back when I hired her to be my interim secretary, and I did not feel comfortable saying “Any messages, Mommy?

Author’s Note:
If you enjoyed this post, I invite you to like it and share it. 
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Austin, Texas: From Staycation to Vacation!

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We miss you, Austin! Our two years living there gave us that dose of city living that we craved.  Don’t get me wrong; we enjoy where we live now, but we’ve decided every now and then, we need to take a staycation and visit you…unless, of course, we are having such fun that it turns into a vacation!

STAY

We believe that a hotel isn’t just where you sleep; it sets the tone for your entire trip. Based on location, its trendy vibe, and the fact that Cava (a sparkling Spanish wine, similar to champagne) has been served in the lobby from 3 p.m. – 10 p.m. during each of our visits, we’ve chosen the Canopy by Hilton Austin Downtown as our favorite hotel. 

Upscale, yet not excessively expensive (a recent article cited Austin as the third most expensive city in Texas, based on its lodging costs), the indoor-outdoor feel of the Canopy makes it feel more like a retreat.

FYI: We check a hotel’s website for their rates and compare them with Hotels.com. We’ll book at the less expensive price, but we prefer to use Hotels.com when possible, as they offer a loyalty rewards program called “OneKeyCash.” Shared by Hotels.com, Expedia, and Vrbo, it can be used as a form of cashback for future bookings. 

PLAY

Sure, there are the tried-and-true tourist spots, but these are just some of the ways we like to while away our time in Austin:

  • Walk all or some of the 10-mile path around Lady Bird Lake or paddle a rented kayak on the lake. 
  • Head to SOCO – South of Congress to shop and people-watch; sign up online, and Kendra Scott will help you celebrate your birthday month with 50% off one item. Or, take a photo at the famous “I Love You So Much” mural at Joe’s Coffee: 1300 South Congress.  
  • Visit the lovely Umlauf Sculpture Gardens and Museum  Check out their event schedule for information on Family Days and After Dark, which features live jazz and cocktails. 
  • Tucked away in the Hyde Park neighborhood, the Elisabet Ney Museum is currently closed for renovation until Summer 2026, but is worth keeping on your radar for a visit. Her home and museum, listed on the National Register of Historic Places, chronicle her interesting life and amazing work as a sculptor. 
  • Mozart’s Coffee Roasters has a spectacular view of Lake Austin, and features live music and art exhibits. 

HIGH LEVEL HAPPY HOUR

Do cocktails taste better when they are served at a rooftop bar? We think they do! I’m not talking about the Sixth Street, loud music, standing room only bars. I’m referring to an elegant venue with the added treat of a view. Here are our favorites:

  • Located on the fifth floor of the swanky Proper Hotel, La Piscina could very well transport you to a Mediterranean hideaway with its chic ambiance.
  • Who would have guessed that P6 was originally the parking garage for its hotel The Line! The space has been transformed into lovely sitting areas with views of Lady Bird Lake and the Austin skyline.

FYI: Both bars are also restaurants, so reservations for cocktails are a must. 

DINE

  • Lin Asian Bar & Dim Sum Restaurant has been a long-time favorite. Be sure to start with the soup dumplings (complete with a quick lesson as to how to enjoy them) and end with the hot sake for “dessert;” anything you choose in between will be great. 
  • As the next-door neighbor to the South Congress Hotel, Café No Se shares its trendy and downtown chic vibe. After recently enjoying an amazing kale salad and a salmon burger for lunch there, we’ll be back. 
    One of the first places we dined as new Austinites, Taverna, will always have a soft spot in our hearts. Brunch favorites are Avocado Toast and Eggs Benedict. For dinner, we love the sautéed mussels and dream of the Cacio e Pepe. It’s prepared tableside in a large cheese rind. Though it’s no longer on the menu, they will happily accommodate you.  
  • Did you know Walton’s Fancy and Staple is owned by actress Sandra Bullock? It’s conveniently located across the street from the Canopy Hotel and great for breakfast and lunch. My favorite is the spinach and arugula salad with candied walnuts, cheddar cheese, and apples.
  • We were delighted that the popular Chicago restaurant group, Lettuce Entertain You, added an Austin restaurant to their success stories. The restaurant aba in SOCO is a Mediterranean wonderland that artfully combines its indoor and outdoor spaces into the WOW factor. Choose any hummus or any kebab; actually, choose anything on the menu!

FYI: A reservation is a must for both lunch and dinner at most restaurants – Walton’s is the only place where you can walk in. Reserving using the Open Table app allows us to make changes and keep tabs on our booking, plus each reservation earns us points. On our last wedding anniversary, we were able to utilize $75 towards our dinner!

Author’s Note:
If you enjoyed this post, I invite you to like it and share it. 
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Image by Achim Thiemermann from Pixabay

Unearthing the Paths to Positive Thinking   

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Why do some people always seem to have things go their way? Is it good luck, or have they mastered the art of positive thinking?

It is a basic fact of psychology that you become what your mind pictures. Think of how athletes are able to train themselves to master this concept.

VISUALIZE, MATERIALIZE
The concept behind positive thinking is that a person’s thoughts – conscious and unconscious – dictate the reality of their lives, whether they are aware of it or not. In other words, if we picture concepts in our conscious mind, it will impress them within our subconscious mind and put those thoughts into action.

SOME THINGS TO REMEMBER

  • ”These thoughts can be related to body pain, emotional issues, or goals you wish to attain.
  • Since affirmative thoughts are more powerful than negative thoughts, our focus should always be on what we want, rather than what we don’t want.
  • Our affirmation – our goal stated in a short phrase – should be in the first person, in the present tense, and in the positive.

Though the fundamental principles are the same, my favorite sources each present them in their own style. By understanding the basics, and with the help of some mental exercises, we can learn how to develop this skill:

THE POWER OF POSITIVE THINKING
After discovering his book, The Power of Positive Thinking, I was fortunate to attend Marble Collegiate Church in New York City and hear Reverend Norman Vincent Peale preach. His words could sting or warm you, and magically seemed to give each audience member around me a personal message, as noted by their reactions after his sermons.

In his book, his warm, folksy way of explaining his concepts includes actual examples and is very unintimidating. The fact that they are not current does not seem to matter. His focus is on one’s outlook on life.

I like his analogy of emptying your mind by imagining you are emptying a wastebasket, to relieve the clutter of tired thoughts. Every page reminds you that enthusiasm is the self-releasing power that helps our personality focus on the matters at hand.

THE SECRET
The Secret by Rhonda Byrne is more analytical, but I like her use of these straightforward mantras:

  • “Ask, believe, receive.”
  • “Thoughts become their physical equivalents.”
  • “If you see it in your mind, you will hold it in your hand.”

Byrne bases her theories on the Law of Attraction, which states that the universe is governed by a matching of frequencies of a person’s experiences with their thoughts.

A suggested exercise seemed easy: think of an old friend or a certain place and see if it somehow comes back into your life. The fact that it worked has given me a deeper sense of belief!

EMOTIONAL FREEDOM TECHNIQUES – EFT
I first heard of Emotional Freedom Techniques – or EFT – from a friend in the military. It’s founder, Gary Craig, had initially utilized his technique on soldiers suffering from PTSD – post-traumatic stress disorder – with much success.

EFT is the psychological form of acupuncture. According to Chinese medicine, acupuncture works on the meridian system, the pathways that supply energy throughout the body.

Instead of needles, you stimulate those major pathways by massaging and tapping them while repeating your affirmation. It is the powerful combination of the physical and mental focus on the pain/problem/issue that brings results.

This simple tapping process only takes a few minutes a day. Repeat your mantra out loud, three times, as you tap:

  • The sides of the palms of each of your hands
  • Your forehead
  • The sides of your eyes
  • Under your eyes
  • Under your nose
  • Under your chin
  • Your collar bones
  • Each side of your body, under your arms
  • The top of your head

LET IT FLOW
It is amazing how once you “tune in” to this process of consistent, positive thought, it will direct you to find a way toward your goals. You must let it flow, even if it leads you into new directions.

Many goosebumps later, I can attest to reflecting on a path that has unwound itself slowly before me with some twists and turns, but always so much like the original plan I had created for myself.

Though this all might seem mystical, think of it as a pact between you and yourself to dedicate a few minutes a day to teach yourself to maneuver through life, capitalizing more on your senses.

The very personal nature of the exercise, the discipline, and the fine-tuning will transform you from the person you are today to the person you would like to be.

Author’s Note:
If you enjoyed this post, I invite you to like it and share it. Don’t forget to follow me to receive posts via email.

Nov. 3 – 8: A Coruña, Ferrol, and Santiago 

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Nov. 3 – 4:  A Coruña

Rather than continue as pilgrims, we’ve decided to become tourists for the last part of the trip. That doesn’t preclude us from walking across town to the Santiago train station to catch our train to A Coruña. 

I’m not the best one to ask about scenic train rides. No sooner do I find my seat than, with heavy eyelids, I am lulled to sleep by the train’s soothing rocking. My usual “That was a quick trip” comment always makes Mr. Wiz laugh, but this time in less than one hour, we’ve arrived. 

As we walk to our hotel, I am reminded of how much I love Sundays in Spain. Families are out in masse, on their paseo – a leisurely stroll through city streets. The well-dressed, multi-generational groups stop along the way for a meal or a drink and some tapas. As they wait for the streetlight to change, an elderly man and his son clasp hands, as long as they can, before the son must let go and cross with his family. Three women of different generations walk, arm in arm, talking and laughing together. The lively chatter and the children’s giggles somehow brighten the already sun-drenched day.

The Hotel Galeria Coruña is in the center of the historic district, surrounded by shops and restaurants. Even though its medieval stone streets are busy, no traffic is allowed, and it gives the area a relaxed feel. The boutique hotel is modern and trendy, with its white décor, back-lit shelves, and bathroom fog mirrors in each room. 

On the Avenida de Marina, the long seafront promenade is lined with bars and restaurants, all with outdoor seating that offer magnificent views of the Atlantic Ocean. The series of large, glazed white apartment buildings, with their enclosed glass balconies, line the Avenida and add elegance to the “Glass City,” the name A Coruña is known by. 

We head out on the promenade to the Tower of Hercules, the oldest working lighthouse in the world, built in the late first century and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. We take our time in the lovely sculpture garden and enjoy a walk on the beach. 

Interspersed with a glass of wine and some people-watching on the promenade, we explored the 12th-century Santiago Church and visited the Picasso Route, viewing the places where Pablo Picasso spent time while living here. We strolled the Plaza de Maria Pita, which pays homage to the A Coruña Mayor and heroine who helped defend Spain against the English Armada in 1589 – first picture above.

Discovering something interesting around every nook and cranny gives us quite an appetite and we both stop short at the sight of a group, sitting outside and eating grilled beef served on a wooden platter. Usually, we are vegetarians – or should I say flexitarians, since we do occasionally eat meat. Today is one of those days we can’t help but venture in. 

It’s 3 p.m. and this will be our main meal of the day. Otherwise, we will need to wait until 8:30 p.m. The Padron peppers and the “Pulpo“(octopus) appetizers are delicious, but when it comes to deciphering the meat side of the menu, we are stymied by words that are not translatable. If we weren’t so hungry, this would be quite funny. We resort to the good old reliable strategy of pointing to what someone else is eating. We enjoy every morsel and toast to following our intuition, especially when it’s combined with the scent of grilled meat, and getting to know in A Coruña.

Nov. 5 – 6: Ferrol

It’s a short bus ride to Ferrol and we arrive in under an hour. As we walk into town and head to our hotel, we know now why Ferrol, is known in the Galician region as their “Black Sheep.” It is not an attractive city, but the more we get to know it, the more we find there is also some charm left over from its heyday. 

Originally a fishing village, their secure harbor, protected from the sea by rocky hills, was responsible for developing the city into a naval base, a shipbuilding center, and the Royal Navy Arsenal. At one time, the city prospered as Spain’s maritime capital, but as the Navy fleet was transferred elsewhere, the lower military presence led to a downturn in the population and the economy. This accounts for the remnants of its “Golden Age’ in the shopping district, where one out of 10 of the elegant high-end stores remain, secluded around those shops that are now for lease. 

Our hotel, the Parador de Ferrol stands out as a majestic example of a genteel time gone by. The stately Galician mansion, built in 1928, features a grand staircase, nautical antiques, and lovely guest rooms with views of the port. 

What is a Parador?
Paradors are luxury hotels owned and run by the Spanish government. Usually converted historic buildings, monasteries, and castles, they must meet strict criteria and maintain a high standard of quality. 

On this trip to Spain, I had noticed even more than past years, the decrepit state of the buildings in the small towns and wondered why the townspeople did not get together and work to do something to elevate their hometown. It wasn’t until I arrived in Ferrol that I received the answer I had been looking for. 

In chatting with the hotel front desk personnel, they mentioned that the large signs displayed throughout Ferrol’s historic district announce a complete renovation is underway, restoring the area to its original splendor. Unfortunately, due to mismanagement and delays with restoration paperwork approvals, the entire district remains in ruins. Since they are protected buildings, nothing can be touched without the proper state approvals.

With a heavy heart for the frustrated residents, we continue to seek out and find wonderful spots around town. The “Jardines de Herrera” is a lovely garden owned by the military. The Magdalena district, with its upscale homes, is the sight of two cathedrals and one special restaurant. 

As we stroll by the water, we snag the last outdoor table at Taberna del Puerto for a late lunch. Sliced Heirloom tomatoes with extra-virgin olive oil, grilled Padron peppers, pork served with a savory/sweet sauce accompanied with French fries was one of those meals that you later dream about! So much so that when the server offered dessert, we ordered more Heirloom tomatoes!

Nov. 7 – 8: Santiago

We are warmly welcomed back to the Hotel Rua Villar, and we thank them again for holding some of our belongings, so we could travel lighter. The lovely room they have reserved for us has a wood beamed ceiling, a bathtub, and a glass enclosed sitting area that overlooks the plaza. I can see myself enjoying some writing time there, but not for too long, since Santiago awaits us. 

We set out for a stroll and hear impromptu applause as we near the Cathedral Plaza. A young Korean pilgrim is on his knees proposing to his girlfriend, who has just accepted. What a lovely way to start our day!

We’ve never taken the time to stop at the Pilgrim House Welcome Center and decide to do so today. Opened in 2014, it provides support and resources to pilgrims having just completed the Camino. The space consists of a living room, kitchenette, quiet reflection room and a patio. 

They offer the following services (some with a small, suggested donation):
– free Wi-Fi
– computer access
– laundry service
– backpack storage
– boarding pass printing
– group or private Camino debriefing session

We didn’t plan on spending so much time there, but we strike up a conversation with the kind, soft-spoken manager and enjoy hearing about her life. After walking the Camino 17 years ago, she and her husband moved to Spain. Both had backgrounds in the nonprofit sector and were hired to develop the center, which took years of paperwork. 

Now with four children, they are planning to move back to the U.S. We were surprised to hear that Santiago has some of the worst weather in Spain, with rain most of the winter. We chatted about their current lifestyle, how the family will experience culture shock when they move to Maryland, and wished them all the best. 

After enjoying some Caldo Gallego, pork, and potatoes at a local’s restaurant, we decide our last evening calls for a nightcap at our favorite bar. Our walk is longer than we expected, as we travel the maze of Old Town streets, but they are filled with people eating, drinking, laughing, and talking as if it were a special celebration. This is Santiago every night!

We decline the free tapas we are offered by the bartender, so he brings us some corn nuts. The roasted snack has accompanied us throughout our walk, and we laugh to think they may, very well, also be the secret to a successful relationship. They are so incredibly crunchy that they drown out sound for the few seconds you are chewing. There are many situations when this comes in very handy! 

Where to next?

Oct. 23 – 26: Cacabelos to Triacastela

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Mr. Wiz  walking non-stop!

Oct. 23: Cacabelos – 18 miles

That Mr. Wiz is a powerhouse! I tease him and call him “the camel” because I must remind him to stop for water and to eat! He puts his head down and those long legs just don’t stop going up and down the hills!

I’m having trouble recalling what I had to eat on the menu del dia two days ago and he remembers every detail of every town we visited in 2016 and 2018: where we ate, stayed, and stopped for a drink- incredible!

Downtown Cacabelos

There’s a lot of road walking today; not my favorite, but at least there’s a barrier between us and the cars and trucks that all seem to be going 100 mph! It always makes us smile when a car or truck sees us and blows their horn.

Today’s highlight is a stop at the “Castillo de los Templarios” (Templar Castle).

The stately Templar Castle

Who were the Knights Templar?
The Knights Templar were a Catholic military order. Founded in 1119, they protected pilgrims on their journeys. In the 12th century, they took possession of the fortress to use as a castle.

When they started to receive too much recognition and wealth, King Phillip forced the Pope to dissolve the order. The knights were arrested and tortured and their assets were stolen. Today, the magnificent castle remains as a study center and a library.

Cruz de Farro is located at the highest point of the French route

Cruz de Farro is a welcome sight. The simple iron cross on the hill has become a symbol of the Camino. The tradition is to bring a stone from home and leave it by the cross. It can symbolize leaving your troubles behind or commemorating someone important to you. Seeing the number of pilgrims kneeling, weeping or sitting quietly, along with the hundreds of rocks, notes, and photos on the ground is truly humbling and very emotional.

We voted these the ugliest trees in Spain

Our room at Hostal Santa Maria is so small that it takes some creativity to plan where to place anything. The town is not an attractive one, but the weather is so lovely that everyone is happy to be outside.

We stop and chat with a cheerful group of pilgrims. One Australian gentleman has such a kind way about him that I find myself immediately drawn to him. Later, I was told he is a priest and began walking in Switzerland 82 days ago. Unfortunately, I never got the chance to ask him why he was taking this journey and if he was finding what he was searching for.

Oct. 24: Trabadelo – 12 miles

A peaceful morning view

The early morning mist makes it feel much colder than it is. We head right to a narrow, rocky path and the single-file order precludes conversation.

I am very excited to be heading to Casa Susi!

Something to think about as we enter Casa Susi

Once upon a time, there was a tenacious, young woman from Australia named Susi. With an independent, adventurous spirit, she backpacked the world until she found the Camino (or until the Camino found her). Drawn to its sense of community and spirituality, she began work as a “hospitelero” (volunteer) at Albergues and began to dream about the one she would someday create.

The shell of the old barn on the Camino path in Trabadelo spoke to her. The fact that it had no water or electricity didn’t stop her. She worked tirelessly to prepare it for the upcoming season. As pilgrims came, some sensed her radiant spirit and stayed a day or two to help her finish one of her many projects. In turn, she offered them a bed and a wonderful meal, with vegetables from her, now abundant, garden which overlooked the river.

He was her 30th guest. A handsome architect from Pamplona, Fermin was soft-spoken with a warm smile. He was immediately captivated by this cheery, petite, powerhouse of a woman with the long blonde braid coquettishly tied to one side. Fermin likes to say that one project led to another, and he never left. Last summer, they were married in the Casa Susi garden and then again in Australia.

Everything  is well planned and organized at Casa Susi

Fermin welcomed us warmly. We were instructed to leave our boots and poles in the outer room. He offered us some herbal tea as we sat around the large wooden table and received information about our stay.

Luckily, no one snored!

A quiet spot in the garden

A door opened to a room with 10 beds and two bathrooms with showers. We were given paper-like sheets to use on the mattress and pillow and planned to sleep inside the sleeping bag liners – or sleep sacks – we had packed. A communal dinner would be served at 7:30 p.m. and we would meet Susi then. Dinner was prepared in the kitchen in their private living quarters upstairs. The cost of the bed and meal was only 27e each! Breakfast was self-service for an extra fee. In the meantime, we were free to relax inside or in the garden.

As it neared dinner time, the hungry pilgrims from California, Canada, Pittsburg, Korea, and Australia were excited to dine and finally meet Susi. As the wine was poured, Susi and Fermin welcomed us, told us a little about themselves, and then asked us to introduce ourselves and share why we were on the Camino.

Pilgrims always have interesting stories, but the one that touched us all was the 22-year-old young woman who tearfully confided she had just graduated from an intensely difficult college program and was confused as to why she had even chosen that course of study. She had already been walking 66 days from France and was exhausted mentally and physically.

After some hugs, Fermin and Susi served the first course: homemade pasta with pesto made with wild garlic Susi had foraged in the hills. Next, came a lovely salad along with peppers stuffed with vegetables, garbanzos, Moroccan spices, and a spiced yogurt topping. Dessert was a homemade lemon custard topped with plums.

I make a toast to the five, strong woman, at the table that are doing the Camino solo, and the meal ended with a round of applause for Susi, Fermin, their garden, and the wonderful gourmet dinner.

As I lay in my bed, I wondered what it would be like to host dinner for 12 every night; the planning, preparing, making conversation, cleaning up, and then doing it all again and again! When Susi and Fermin said they would close November 1, I assumed that meant a long vacation. Their plan was a weeklong trip to Malaga and then to Australia to work, with Susi as a florist and Fermin in construction. I fell asleep with a newfound respect for all the Albergue owners who dedicated their lives to caring for the pilgrims.

Oct. 25: O Cebreiro – 15 miles

It’s always an easy start when you walk through towns. Just when we’re grateful for no rain, it starts raining lightly, which it will do on and off all day today. This is the province of Galicia and O Cebreiro is known to be cold and damp, It’s still one of my favorite towns. With its charming stone village, scenic hiking trails, and good food and wine, many Spaniards agree with me and enjoy heading here for the weekend.

The lovely Valcarce Valley

We’re in for one of the steepest climbs today, navigating mud, wet leaves, and chestnuts, but the views of the Valcarce Valley will make it all worthwhile. The woods are quiet and beautiful. Sometimes the branches meet in the middle and create arches for us to walk through.

With just a touch of the mist hanging in the air, it gives the views a mystical feel. We are grateful for the quiet when, suddenly, we hear talking and laughing, as a group of what seems like hundreds of high school students take over the path. They walk along with us (actually, much faster!) until they head to buses to return down.

The Iglesia de Santa Maria Real dates back to the ninth century. It is the oldest
church associated with pilgrims and is also the resting place of Fr. Don Elias Valiña  Sampedro, who was responsible for helping to restore the Camino and whose idea it was to mark the route with yellow arrows (Camino shells are also used today).

Once again, our hotel La Venta Celta is small and plain, but it’s warm and we’re happy to arrive…that is, until we notice the shower is missing a door! With a smile, the lovely young woman explains that a large guest fell into it yesterday and they don’t have another room available. Rather than get upset, we ask for some extra towels for the floor and make it work. We see so many pilgrims we know at dinner, we decide to sit in the middle of the room, so we can chat with them all.

Oct. 26: Triacastela – 15 miles

Cold, but happy!

It’s raw out this morning! I open the door to check the weather and notice several pilgrims heading out in the dark with headlamps on. We prefer to have breakfast and wait for daylight.

Cows have the right of way in Spain

The rollercoaster hills are gravel today, which makes them a bit easier, but, not by much. I’m always surprised when we walk right through someone’s farm. Today, the señora seems nonplussed as she walks through the groups of pilgrims and gets her cows in line to head for the field. Meanwhile, we hustle to get ahead of them before they take over the road.

The chestnut tree is so ugly that it’s beautiful

We stop for a bowl of delicious lentil soup for lunch and everyone we know seems to have the same idea. Today is a long day, but for a few minutes, we are entertained by the 800-year-old chestnut tree that we pass. Gnarled and ashen gray, it has an artistic look about it. Every November, a festival is held in Galicia, where chestnuts are collected and celebrated. The fruit of the chestnut is enjoyed by both people and cattle.

Pension Albergue Lemos is a nice surprise. It’s the first stop in town, the room is modern with plenty of room and a hot shower. As a bonus, there is a washer and dryer available to use. With a big smile, the woman at reception surprises us by insisting she will do our laundry for us.

Oct. 19 – 22: Villar de Mazarife to Molinaseca

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Welcome to Viilar de Mazarife!

Oct. 19: Villar de Mazarife – 14 miles 

It’s a cold start to the day, but the consensus is, it’s better than hot and sunny. We walk through an industrial district, scrubland and surprise- lots of ups and downs!

In the distance, we hear a lilting Irish voice. We’ve greeted this jolly soul daily, but today he catches up to us and joins us for some café con leche/té to warm up. Never married and living with his mother, he decided to sell his dairy farm, retire at 58, and see the world.

On his first Camino, he met a family traveling with their daughter via wheelchair. The daughter told him she had Multiple Sclerosis (MS), the brilliant mind of a 28-year-old, a great career, but the body of a 98-year old. When she added she was not going to let that stop her from her goals and dreams, he immediately joined her support team. He was proud that his practical farm sense came in handy, when he suggested they put a hot water bottle on her lap to keep her warm.

Our Irish friend snapped this photo of us

He spoke of the kindness of other pilgrims, taking turns pushing the wheelchair and sometimes even carrying it. He reluctantly said goodbye and headed home. Weeks later, he received a text, asking him if he’d like to meet them in Sarria and finish out the Camino. Two days later, he was on a plane back to Spain (you can do that when you live in Ireland) He said that experience changed his life and now, he can’t get enough of the Camino.

Bucolic setting on the way, but could not seem to translate the sign!

The Tio Pepe Hostal looks just like we left it in 2016. Once again, we have a first-floor room. It’s plain and clean, the shower’s great, but there’s no closet!  And, once again, Mr. Wiz takes a walk to check out the town and returns in five minutes; still not too many sights!

It’s cool and damp, so rather than sitting in the garden patio, pilgrims are all huddled around the bar getting to know each other. A pilgrim from Wyoming shares his free form style of never making any plans and going where the wind takes him.

Between travel cost and time (a 20 hour flight to Europe), an Australian couple tells us of how they planned to get their monies worth by first sailing the Greek Islands (his dream) and now are on the Camino (her choice). At dinner, we find out we have much in common: our sons are the same age, have the same name, are the same size (big!) and both played rugby.

The señora at Tio Pepe makes us a sandwich for lunch and insists it’s “gratis” (free). There are no condiments on a Spanish sandwich; just crusty bread, cheese and jamón.

Jamön shopping!

What is jamón?
Jamón is a salt cured meat, made from the hind leg of a pig and is similar to prosciutto, but tastier. On holidays, Spanish families have their jamón proudly displayed in a special stand that clamps the ham in place and makes it accessible and easy to carve. The most expensive jamón comes from a special breed of black pigs who are only fed acorns and can cost.as much as $775 for 13 pounds.

A big group of pilgrims leave together this morning. Some are talking and laughing, some are singing and some hold back, in order to start the day quietly. 

We notice the pilgrim from Colorado, who we started out with, is becoming more talkative, as each day passes. He shares that he works alone as a grounds keeper, hasn’t been to Europe in 25 years, and opens up about his solitary liife.

It’s so unusual to see a child on the Camino that we can’t help but congratulate the 14-year old boy that’s walking with his parents. This sweet family from New Zealand also seem to be coming out of their shells.

And we thought we had a nice flat day ahead of us!

Little do we know that the flat path will soon give way to a series of never ending inclines and descents, the loose rock making us pay attention to every step. Is that a mirage?! In the middle of nowhere, a woman has set up chairs and a display of fruits, snacks, and drinks, only asking for a donation in return. Sharing a Coke and the reprieve of a walk through a town finally gets us to our destination.

Oct. 20: Astorga- 20 miles

Astorga welcomed us to their plaza with sunny weather

A lovely quiet meal at El Pasaje

Astorga is a lively city that packs shops, bars, restaurants, and historical buildings all within its medieval walls. The Imprenta Musical Alojamiento has a great check-in system, explained via cell phone in your choice of languages and the room is nice. We’re too tired and hungry to take the time to lounge on our floor’s outdoor sitting area, so we hurry and shower and head to the plaza. We find a restaurant on the second floor, so we can see the merrymaking going on, on the plaza, but cannot hear it.

Oct. 21: Rabanal del Camino- 15 miles
We’re heading up to the mountains and the area known for its unpredictable weather. It’s a long day and pilgrims share an occasional “Hola” (Hi!) and keep their focus on the trail. As we enter the town of El Gonzo, I remember how Camino author, Brierley, rightly describes it as “a hauntingly crumbling village.” It’s only saving grace is the famous cowboy bar, known for not allowing any photos (though no one knows why).

Rabanal del Camino continues its centuries old tradition of caring for pilgrims before they take the steep path up Monte Irago. An order of Bavarian monks have taken up residence in the restored church and the sound of Gregorian chants continues. We stop in at the church and are surprised to find a Korean woman standing alone near the altar, playing her flute. The sound bouncing off the centuries old walls is mesmerizing. We don’t want to interrupt her, so we get her attention and hold our hand to our hearts and quietly leave.

La Posada de Gaspar hasn’t changed a bit

While the town is nothing to write home about, we remember staying at the Posada de Gaspar in 2016, with its wooden beams and stone walls. Once again, we shower and scurry to, hopefully, find a restaurant open before 8 p.m.; not easy in Spain! 

What is a Spaniards’ dining schedule? 
– Breakfast: café con leche/té and a sweet roll or “tostada” (crusty bread) with either butter/jam, tomato, or jamón
– Late morning: another café/té and maybe a sweet roll?
– Lunch: large meal, usually in courses with wine/beer
– Early evening: café/té/wine/beer and some sweets or tapas
– Dinner: restaurants open again at 8-8:30 p.m. 

We try to start the day with some protein and seek out a restaurant that serves eggs and ham. We usually don’t eat much bread, but sometimes when that’s what all you’re served, you eat it! For lunch, we enjoy our favorite: a big bowl of “Caldo Gallego.”

What is a “Caldo Gallego”?
“Caldo Gallego” or Galician broth is a soup made with white beans, turnip greens and potatoes. The broth is flavored either with a type of salt pork called unto, “chorizo” (Spanish sausage), or smoked ham. 

If we happen to arrive in a town early enough, we take advantage of the late lunch, the three course pilgrim’s meal. Usually that doesn’t happen, so we try to find someplace that opens before 8 p.m., which is starting to get close to our bed time! 

Oh, and one more thing about food: it’s amazing that the price listed is the price you pay- no tax and no tip! Servers are paid a higher wage and no tips are expected.

Oct. 22- Molinaseca- 18 miles
Today we head up to the highest point of our journey, remembering to be cautious on the descents as well. It’s a grueling day, but the views are spectacular.

So peaceful in the mountains

We pass the abandoned town of Manjarin, which actually now has a population of one! Tomás, a Spaniard with a devotion to pilgrims, has provided 36 mattresses, an outside toilet, some hot water, and a simple meal for a donation. 

The medieval bridge

A medieval bridge leads you into the town of Molinaseca, once the home of the Queen of Castilla and León. I sit in a bench and watch a woman walk down the middle of the street in this charming stone village. She’s carrying a bouquet of just picked flowers and by the way she’s dressed, it could be any year back in time. Just then, a car horn honks and I’m brought back to reality.

The hills embrace the town of Molinaseca

Just as lovely as it was in 2018, we vote the Hotel el Palacio one of the best hotels on the Camino, with its stone exterior, glass enclosed balcony, wooden floors, shutters and built in wardrobe.

There seems to be only two restaurants in town and we are lucky to get a table at one. A group of ten pilgrims asks if we could move our table next to their two tables, so they can all sit together and we enjoy visiting with them while we have our dessert.

Oct. 14 – 18 : Moratinos to León

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Seems like we’ll  never arrive in Moratinos!

Oct. 14: Moratinos- 20 miles
It’s a quiet morning. As pilgrims head out, many are starting their day in thought. It’s another cool day and besides focusing on the rocky, dirt path, there’s not much scenery to embrace; just miles of farmland. I become fascinated with the ant hills along the way. Some almost look like castles and each one has a hole in the center. I wonder what a mini camera would show?
This helps me pass the time and also clean out the cobwebs in the corners of my brain at the same time!

We’re startled to see a food truck ahead of us- in the middle of nowhere! Our breakfast was light, so we stop and have a “tostado con tomato,” a hunk of crunchy bread, but this time instead of chopped tomato, the bread is sprinkled with olive oil and loaded with slices of fresh tomato- delicious! We compliment the young entrepreneurial couple and they tell us they do quite well, stationing themselves along the Camino, and that they also live in the back of their camper.

With a devotion to pilgrim hospitality, Italians Bruno and Ana built Albergue San Bruno. It’s a large house, unconventional in design, with a couple of levels that house both dorms with beds and private rooms. With various doors and halls, I can only figure out how to get to our room and back downstairs. We hurry and shower, so we can relax out in their garden.

All the hungry pilgrims are hovering around the door, waiting for the communal dinner to start at 7 p.m. We share a table with two sisters from the Netherlands, a man from France and a couple from Kansas. Bruno and Ana don chef’s hats and formally welcome us all. They tell us they will close for the season November 1 and return to Italy, but not to rest, to work! Over wine, salad, pasta carbonara and cake, we are entertained by the Frenchman, who tells us after his first Camino, he quit his corporate job two weeks after he arrived home and changed his career path.

Oct. 15: El Burgo Ranero – 18 miles
It’s not raining yet, but we can feel it coming. The fact that we’re heading to a new Albergue for lunch takes our minds off walking the “Soulless Senda” for awhile. 

The sun disappears quickly, the wind picks up, the sky darkens and and we stop and jump into our raincoats, but the rain only lasts for a few minutes. We’ve been through this before with the weather teasing us, so we decide to just leave our raincoats on.

Tonight we’re staying in a gas station! I know what you’re thinking, but the Hotel Castillo de Burgo is actually behind the gas station. We are warmly greeted and the room is quite nice, modern and clean. The restaurant is open all evening, the dining room has white tablecloths, and the staff seems happy to be working there. What more could you ask for?!

Downtown Mansilla

 

A surprise around every corner in Mansillas

Oct. 16 – Mansilla de los Mulas – 13 miles
There’s not much in the way of scenery today, so it’s a jgood time to reflect. In his Camino guidebook, Brierley notes “Classified as the longest extant stretch of Roman road left in Spain today, we follow in the footsteps of Emperor Augustus himself.” Out of the silence, the sound of our shoes crushing the gravel and the click of our hiking poles, as they tap the ground, creates an almost Zen-like rhythm that carrys us the rest of the way.

Our room at Pensión de Blanca (plain and clean) has three beds, so we have plenty of room to spread out. The owner pulls out a map and with a magic marker, gives us directions to everything in town, but tonight we already know where we’re dining. 

It’s not very often that Brierley gives a restaurant review, so when he recommends La Curiosa, we head there early and have a glass of wine to secure a spot. The first floor is almost museum-like, with collections of everything from old typewriters, books, tin cans and advertisements arranged just so on shelves. Upstairs, we are pleasantly surprised by the large windows and white tablecloths. We chat with women from Madrid, Chicago, and Arizona, all walking alone, and when the hosts asks if we would like to sit together, we all say “ Why not?”

While enjoying the delicious smoked trout salad, veal with blue cheese and local goat cheese drizzled with local honey, we are on edge, listening to the Chicago woman’s story of how she was scammed by a white collar squatter. Since the squatter was already living in the same New York City building, our friend assumed the usual background checks, etc. were unnecessary. Two years later, with legal assistance, she was finally able to get her tenant evicted, but had only collected $2500 from her- one months rent!

So happy to be in León!


The cathedral sparkles at night

 

Our favorite white wine is the Galician Albariño

Oct. 17 & 18: León – 13 miles
We’re happy it’s cool and not raining. We’re so anxious to get to León, one of our favorite cities, we don’t even mind that we’re walking parallel to the busy highway most of the day.

León has been a pilgrim stop since the 10th century. Today, with a population of almost 450,000, the bustling city has a vibrant, joyful feel. I’m not sure when people go to work or children go to school, because it seems that the revelry continues all day and all night in the Plaza Mayor and down every narrow side street in the walled city. It’s the perfect place for a rest day.

Though we don’t seem to have the constitution of the locals, who don’t mind sitting outside in cold weather, we very quickly realize the custom of ordering one drink, which is served with a complimentary tapas, and then moving on another bar until you’ve had your dinner.

We are served a small plate full of warm, just fried calamari – delicious! Across the bar, I notice a couple chatting. As the man, picks up the calamari, it seems to be a long, never ending piece. I make eye contact with the woman and we laugh, she making the gesture of wrapping it around her neck and me, holding my hands up, like a lasso. It’s one of those quick lovely moments. All this for 6e for two glasses of wine and tapas!

View from our room’s patio

Called “ the house of light” because of its famed stained glass windows, the Santa María de León Cathedral is now a UNESCO World Heritage sight. Our hotel, Hostal Albany Ancha, is in a great location, not too far from the church. The room has a brick wall, interesting metal light fixtures, a glass enclosed patio, but no closet! In Spain, you learn quickly- “Es lo que es” (it is what it is)!