Porto, Portugal: Oct. 22-25, 2016

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View from the Duoro riverbank

The Pilgrims do not seem to want to go home. Most are leaving Santiago and heading out in all directions. We are going to Porto by bus to meet up with JC* and Big A* and are anxious for our reunion.

Porto is one the oldest cities in Europe and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It’s location on the Douro River and its hilly streets (more days of inclines and descents!) make it an interesting city to explore.

We travel well together. Big A and I are armed with all the research we’ve done. I especially like the New York Times 36 hour city guide that Big A has provided. Oh, and he surprises us by being able to speak just enough Portuguese to get by (says it’s very similar to Spanish, so he brushed up using the free Duo Lingo app.). Mr. Wiz* is in charge of getting us where we want to go and JC provides the spunk and enthusiasm (she is first one up and ready each day).

You can always count on the NH Hotels for a trendy vibe and the NH Collection Porto Batalha delivers. I particularly like the ancient stone arches that grace the modern lobby and the old postage stamp theme in the elevators and on the carpeting. On arrival, we are given coupons for a port wine tasting in the bar. This will be the start of a wonderful relationship between us, the bar and the port, every night after dinner.

Those inclines and descents really help us work up an appetite and we foodies can’t decide what we like the best: bacalhau (salted codfish), grilled pulpo (octopus), cabrito (baby kid), suckling pig or Portuguese sausages. One of the more interesting meals was lunch at Pastel De Bacalhau. There was only one item on the menu: a large, egg shaped codfish fritter stuffed with cheese served in a plastic holder inset into what looked like an artist’s palette with room for your glass of white port and your thumb, so you could carry it all with one hand.

We stroll the narrow cobblestone streets of the Ribeira District, the old quarter on the Duoro riverbanks, the beautiful gardens at the Palacio de Cristal and the Avenida dos Aliado, a lively avenue. We visit the Livaria Lello & Irmao Library, named the most beautiful bookstore in the world and rumored to be the inspiration for J.K. Rowling’s Harry Potter series. At the Do Porto Cathedral, we delight in the story that a local resident painted the altar to hide its silver, so that when Napoleon and his troops entered the city to pillage it, they left it behind never realizing it was there.

Before we know it, it’s time to head to Lisbon by train.

*Who’s who? See “Cast of Characters” on the “About” page.

Five Life Lessons in 500 Miles: What the Camino Taught Me

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This year, I walked 500 miles through Spain and became a Peregrino, (a pilgrim). I, like the more than 250,000 people from all over the world that are drawn there each year, walked (or biked) to the Shrine of the Apostle Saint James in northern Spain’s medieval city of Santiago de Compostela. The routes, known as “caminos” or ways, originate all over Europe. We traveled the same paths as those did thousands of years before us for the same reasons (spiritual, mental, physical) and with little change.

It is said that “the Camino provides.” One of its gifts was the simplicity of each day. As you trekked through each small town, you were reminded of the beauty of an uncomplicated life. After 33 days of being “unplugged” from the usual stimuli of our daily lives, my minds was clear and open, a freedom seldom experienced.

Whether I was enjoying the camaraderie of other pilgrims or the solitude of walking alone, my days were filled with time for sharing thoughts with others or with myself. I returned home with the unexpected souvenirs of some lessons learned and a new way to live life: 

  1. Focus on one step at a time: Rather than waking up each day and thinking of the 12 – 20 miles of inclines and descents ahead, it was important to concentrate on your footing. Likewise, giving my attention to smaller goals rather than the big picture, will keep me on track and not leave me feeling overwhelmed.
  2. Listen more: I was so captivated by the life stories of the other pilgrims that I found myself listening, really listening to what they had to say. In the quiet moments, I paid more attention to the sounds of nature. I was even more attuned to what I was thinking and feeling. Now, when I have the inclination to interrupt in order to get a word in, rush through a day or disregard myself, I will instead try to remember to savor the moment.
  3. Go with the flow: A day of torrential downpours, a missed turn, dirty clothes and a broken washer and dryer; the day’s trials were nothing that a laugh over a glass of wine with some other pilgrims couldn’t fix. I have trouble “winging it” and always prefer the flow to be pre-planned. I now realize that I need to loosen up and enjoy the ride.
  4. Be open: This was an amazing opportunity to meet people from all over the world and realize that even though they may look, speak or act differently, we basically are all the same. Rather than shying away from those that are different from I am, I will make an effort to be more receptive and try to let my curiosity lead the way to new experiences.
  5. Be grateful: Living so simply for a month, slowing down and watching the small details of life go by opened my eyes to what really matters: health, happiness, family and friends. I will remember to start each day being thankful for what I have, work at giving back in some way and try to cling to as much simplicity as I can.

 

Pictured: The Cruz de Farro (Iron Cross) near Rabanal
Pilgrims bring a stone from home and carry it on their journey to symbolize the spiritual, mental and physical aspects of their lives that are weighing them down. When you leave the stone behind, it is said you are ridding yourself of these burdens.

 

 

 

The Camino: Sept. 16 – Oct. 20, 2016 -Reflecting On Our Journey

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 Accommodations Price Range: $10 – $90 (excluding Santiago).

Bedbugs: None! Daily ritual of mattress checking after stripping bed paid off.

Budget: 100 euros for two, per day ($116).

Conveniences Missed: Drying clothes in a dryer rather than hanging them on a line, Wi-Fi that works, toilet tissue in restrooms.

Clothing: 2- pants that unzip into shorts, 2- short sleeved tops, 1- long sleeved top, 1- leggings for evening, 1- top for evening, 1- fleece, 1- rain jacket, 1-hat, 1- buff, 1 nightshirt, 3- pairs of socks, quick dry underwear and sports bras, 1- pair flip flops and sneakers.

Dinner Price Range: $10 – $15 per person for a 3-course dinner with water, bread and a bottle of wine.

Emotions: Feeling more grateful, tolerant, peaceful and adventurous.

Equipment Favorites: Buff: a colorful, stretchable, jersey headband that can be worn as a scarf, hood, sleeping mask, wrist band, mask, etc.; Hiking Boots: Merrell MOAB Ventilator Mid: just noticed it says “Outperform” on the box and outperform they did!: Hiking poles: could not have successfully walked without them.

Food Favorites: Caldo Gallego- soup made with potatoes, white beans, turnip greens, ham and chorizo (Spanish sausage), Arroz Negro- seafood and black rice flavored with squid ink, tortilla- potato and egg pie.

Foods That Won’t Be Missed: Bread and french fries.

Friendships: It’s not always the case that 4 people just “click.” We connected with a couple from Utah. A new, budding friendship would be the best trip souvenir we could ask for.

Hiking Days: 33.

Longest Walk, Distance:  Day 22- 20 miles to Astorga.

Longest Walk, Time: Day 1- nine hours over the Pyrenees.

Makeup Meltdowns: Blamed it on the passenger sitting next to me on the flight that looked like a model out of Vogue magazine; felt naked, not myself. Once the Camino started, I began to feel more comfortable in my own skin and think less about me and more about the details of the daily experience. Also, great to be able to get ready so quickly each morning!

Miles Walked: 501.

Missing the Most: The camaraderie, the solitude, the simplicity of our daily routine, the feeling of accomplishment after a physically challenging day.

Pilgrims Met, Around the World: 22 countries.

Pilgrims Met, United States: 27 states.

Public Transportation: None for us, but taxis, buses and trains were available if the going got too tough.

Spousal Arguments/Disagreements: None! We were together 24/7 for 35 days. Our physical and emotional levels were as high and low as the inclines and descents we’d climb each day, but sharing this experience, taking care of each other and working together to accomplish our goal has brought us even closer (if that’s possible) and has given us a newfound respect for each other. Dare I say it?  I think we may have fallen in love all over again.

Rest Days: 2.

TV, Radio: None!

Weather: 45 degrees (early morning) – 85 degrees.

Woods Bathroom Breaks: 2- tried to keep to a minimum.