Monthly Archives: March 2025

Nov. 3 – 8: A Coruña, Ferrol, and Santiago 

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Nov. 3 – 4:  A Coruña

Rather than continue as pilgrims, we’ve decided to become tourists for the last part of the trip. That doesn’t preclude us from walking across town to the Santiago train station to catch our train to A Coruña. 

I’m not the best one to ask about scenic train rides. No sooner do I find my seat than, with heavy eyelids, I am lulled to sleep by the train’s soothing rocking. My usual “That was a quick trip” comment always makes Mr. Wiz laugh, but this time in less than one hour, we’ve arrived. 

As we walk to our hotel, I am reminded of how much I love Sundays in Spain. Families are out in masse, on their paseo – a leisurely stroll through city streets. The well-dressed, multi-generational groups stop along the way for a meal or a drink and some tapas. As they wait for the streetlight to change, an elderly man and his son clasp hands, as long as they can, before the son must let go and cross with his family. Three women of different generations walk, arm in arm, talking and laughing together. The lively chatter and the children’s giggles somehow brighten the already sun-drenched day.

The Hotel Galeria Coruña is in the center of the historic district, surrounded by shops and restaurants. Even though its medieval stone streets are busy, no traffic is allowed, and it gives the area a relaxed feel. The boutique hotel is modern and trendy, with its white décor, back-lit shelves, and bathroom fog mirrors in each room. 

On the Avenida de Marina, the long seafront promenade is lined with bars and restaurants, all with outdoor seating that offer magnificent views of the Atlantic Ocean. The series of large, glazed white apartment buildings, with their enclosed glass balconies, line the Avenida and add elegance to the “Glass City,” the name A Coruña is known by. 

We head out on the promenade to the Tower of Hercules, the oldest working lighthouse in the world, built in the late first century and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. We take our time in the lovely sculpture garden and enjoy a walk on the beach. 

Interspersed with a glass of wine and some people-watching on the promenade, we explored the 12th-century Santiago Church and visited the Picasso Route, viewing the places where Pablo Picasso spent time while living here. We strolled the Plaza de Maria Pita, which pays homage to the A Coruña Mayor and heroine who helped defend Spain against the English Armada in 1589 – first picture above.

Discovering something interesting around every nook and cranny gives us quite an appetite and we both stop short at the sight of a group, sitting outside and eating grilled beef served on a wooden platter. Usually, we are vegetarians – or should I say flexitarians, since we do occasionally eat meat. Today is one of those days we can’t help but venture in. 

It’s 3 p.m. and this will be our main meal of the day. Otherwise, we will need to wait until 8:30 p.m. The Padron peppers and the “Pulpo“(octopus) appetizers are delicious, but when it comes to deciphering the meat side of the menu, we are stymied by words that are not translatable. If we weren’t so hungry, this would be quite funny. We resort to the good old reliable strategy of pointing to what someone else is eating. We enjoy every morsel and toast to following our intuition, especially when it’s combined with the scent of grilled meat, and getting to know in A Coruña.

Nov. 5 – 6: Ferrol

It’s a short bus ride to Ferrol and we arrive in under an hour. As we walk into town and head to our hotel, we know now why Ferrol, is known in the Galician region as their “Black Sheep.” It is not an attractive city, but the more we get to know it, the more we find there is also some charm left over from its heyday. 

Originally a fishing village, their secure harbor, protected from the sea by rocky hills, was responsible for developing the city into a naval base, a shipbuilding center, and the Royal Navy Arsenal. At one time, the city prospered as Spain’s maritime capital, but as the Navy fleet was transferred elsewhere, the lower military presence led to a downturn in the population and the economy. This accounts for the remnants of its “Golden Age’ in the shopping district, where one out of 10 of the elegant high-end stores remain, secluded around those shops that are now for lease. 

Our hotel, the Parador de Ferrol stands out as a majestic example of a genteel time gone by. The stately Galician mansion, built in 1928, features a grand staircase, nautical antiques, and lovely guest rooms with views of the port. 

What is a Parador?
Paradors are luxury hotels owned and run by the Spanish government. Usually converted historic buildings, monasteries, and castles, they must meet strict criteria and maintain a high standard of quality. 

On this trip to Spain, I had noticed even more than past years, the decrepit state of the buildings in the small towns and wondered why the townspeople did not get together and work to do something to elevate their hometown. It wasn’t until I arrived in Ferrol that I received the answer I had been looking for. 

In chatting with the hotel front desk personnel, they mentioned that the large signs displayed throughout Ferrol’s historic district announce a complete renovation is underway, restoring the area to its original splendor. Unfortunately, due to mismanagement and delays with restoration paperwork approvals, the entire district remains in ruins. Since they are protected buildings, nothing can be touched without the proper state approvals.

With a heavy heart for the frustrated residents, we continue to seek out and find wonderful spots around town. The “Jardines de Herrera” is a lovely garden owned by the military. The Magdalena district, with its upscale homes, is the sight of two cathedrals and one special restaurant. 

As we stroll by the water, we snag the last outdoor table at Taberna del Puerto for a late lunch. Sliced Heirloom tomatoes with extra-virgin olive oil, grilled Padron peppers, pork served with a savory/sweet sauce accompanied with French fries was one of those meals that you later dream about! So much so that when the server offered dessert, we ordered more Heirloom tomatoes!

Nov. 7 – 8: Santiago

We are warmly welcomed back to the Hotel Rua Villar, and we thank them again for holding some of our belongings, so we could travel lighter. The lovely room they have reserved for us has a wood beamed ceiling, a bathtub, and a glass enclosed sitting area that overlooks the plaza. I can see myself enjoying some writing time there, but not for too long, since Santiago awaits us. 

We set out for a stroll and hear impromptu applause as we near the Cathedral Plaza. A young Korean pilgrim is on his knees proposing to his girlfriend, who has just accepted. What a lovely way to start our day!

We’ve never taken the time to stop at the Pilgrim House Welcome Center and decide to do so today. Opened in 2014, it provides support and resources to pilgrims having just completed the Camino. The space consists of a living room, kitchenette, quiet reflection room and a patio. 

They offer the following services (some with a small, suggested donation):
– free Wi-Fi
– computer access
– laundry service
– backpack storage
– boarding pass printing
– group or private Camino debriefing session

We didn’t plan on spending so much time there, but we strike up a conversation with the kind, soft-spoken manager and enjoy hearing about her life. After walking the Camino 17 years ago, she and her husband moved to Spain. Both had backgrounds in the nonprofit sector and were hired to develop the center, which took years of paperwork. 

Now with four children, they are planning to move back to the U.S. We were surprised to hear that Santiago has some of the worst weather in Spain, with rain most of the winter. We chatted about their current lifestyle, how the family will experience culture shock when they move to Maryland, and wished them all the best. 

After enjoying some Caldo Gallego, pork, and potatoes at a local’s restaurant, we decide our last evening calls for a nightcap at our favorite bar. Our walk is longer than we expected, as we travel the maze of Old Town streets, but they are filled with people eating, drinking, laughing, and talking as if it were a special celebration. This is Santiago every night!

We decline the free tapas we are offered by the bartender, so he brings us some corn nuts. The roasted snack has accompanied us throughout our walk, and we laugh to think they may, very well, also be the secret to a successful relationship. They are so incredibly crunchy that they drown out sound for the few seconds you are chewing. There are many situations when this comes in very handy! 

Where to next?

Oct. 30 – Nov. 3: Ribadiso to Santiago

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Oct. 30: Ribadiso – 18 miles

The wooded areas help mask the noisy highway we periodically cross. We are walking the usual mileage today, but for some reason, it seems much longer, and I am exhausted. 

The only thing that keeps me going is running into the sweet New Zealand family, joining them for a Coke, and finishing the last few miles together. The mom has such a lovely, serene way about her. She is originally from Ireland and said that even though the people are friendly in the small town her husband grew up in, it’s so remote and she feels so distant from her family. Her frown turns into a smile as she shares that they plan to meet her sister in Rome after the Camino.

We arrive in Ribadiso and walk over the medieval bridge to the sound of pilgrims laughing and splashing in the river. We ask them if the water’s cold, and they all answer in unison with a resounding “Yes!”  

With its lovely pool, Pensión Ribadiso would be even nicer on a warmer day. The room is welcoming with its wood-beamed ceiling, and it’s wonderful to have a washer and dryer on the premises. 

Luckily for us, there is a restaurant right across the street, so we don’t have to walk back up the hill. We meet a pilgrim from South America who confides in us that he’s not used to the early 8 p.m. dinners here in Spain. At home, he dines at 10 p.m.!

Oct 31: O Pedrouzo- 16 miles

It’s better to get the steep climb out of the way early! From then on, we’re in and out of eucalyptus forests, and we take in the scent of eucalyptus with every breath. We’re getting to the end of our walk, and I’m hoping I have successfully cleaned out all the cobwebs in the corners of my brain. Chatting with strangers, you may or may not ever see again, has a magical quality. Walking and talking side by side, rather than facing each other, may explain why the words seem easier. Spending time walking alone is a wonderful gift to give yourself.

The town has a worn look to it. The sidewalks are full of shops and restaurants, trying hard to look their best. The streets are one loud cacophony of cars, trucks, and pilgrims. Pensión Residential Platas is not impressive, but it’s clean, and the young woman at the front desk has a warm smile.

We remembered our first time here in 2016. After walking in a torrential downpour, we were not looking forward to heading out again to dinner. When we returned downstairs, we noticed pilgrims eating in the breakfast room. They told us we could place an order at the local pizza place that would deliver. This time, we decide to seek out that same restaurant and celebrate that, for one evening, we are in a No (French) Fry Zone and order the same meal. 

Nov. 1 – 3: Santiago – 15 miles

Walking through the forest is a lovely way to start the day. Its denseness makes us feel at peace,

As John Brierley eloquently states in his Camino guidebook “It’s a long slog up to Mount Goza.” An elevated area overlooking the city, it doesn’t have much to offer except for a few pilgrim sculptures and a view of the sprawling complex offering 400 beds in dormitory-style blockhouses.

We head downhill and down the stairs and are welcomed by asphalt. The city noise, the wide streets, and the traffic startle us. Some passersby on the street smile and give us a thumbs-up, as if to say, “Almost there, keep going!” 

We are happy to find a restaurant serving Caldo Gallego. The restaurant is empty, but a few minutes later, large groups are seated around us, ready to enjoy a long, late afternoon lunch. The sounds of conversation and laughter make for good company. 

In the distance, we can see the spires of the Cathedral, but we are not fooled into thinking we are close by. Block after block, we trudge on, gazing into non-descript store windows and focusing all our concentration on crossing the busy streets. 

Finally, we come to “Porta do Camiño, the famous gate and entrance to the wonderful, old city. Almost immediately, the streets narrow and turn to cobblestone. Every shop and restaurant window intrigues us and we are brimming with anticipation.

As we enter the dark tunnel, the familiar sound of the bagpiper welcomes us. Once again, we wonder -are musicians stationed there 24/7 to greet every pilgrim? Just a few more steps and we are in the Cathedral Plaza. While the majestic Cathedral sparkles overhead in the sunlight, pilgrims, mingled with tourists and townspeople, are crying, hugging, laughing, or too overwhelmed to do anything more than lay on the ground with their eyes closed.  

This is our fourth time experiencing Santiago, but it never gets old. We hug and shed some tears; tears of joy for a successful arrival and tears of sadness for the trip coming to an end. We look up to see our friend, the solitary pilgrim from Colorado, running towards us. 

With a tear-stained face, he tells us that, since he arrived in Santiago, he had seen everyone he had encountered along the way,, except us and now, here we were! He speaks happily and rapidly, nothing like the man we first met, and I am so happy for him and his newfound metamorphosis.

The Cathedral, a World UNESCO Heritage Site, was completed in 1211. Housing the remains of Saint James, it inspired pilgrimages, which ended at this iconic location. The highlight of the pilgrim mass is the Botafumiero. Six attendants dramatically swing it up and over the heads of the parishioners. 

We take the time to view our favorite areas

  • Stepping down into the crypt of Saint James and taking a minute to kneel and say a prayer.
  • Visiting the Praza de Quintana, near the Cathedral, at night to view the shadow of a pilgrim projected on the wall, a trick of the lights reflecting off the square. 

Unfortunately, you can now only view these areas from afar:

  • The weathered spot in the solid marble – a finger hole – created by the millions of grateful pilgrims that touched the spot after a safe arrival.  
  • Touching our foreheads to the sculpture of Maestro Mateo, one of the Cathedral’s master builders, to receive some of his artistic genius. 

The Hotel Rua Villar is an elegant townhouse, just steps from the Cathedral. Our room looks out to the main street, but there is nothing except a large terrace across from us, making it very private. I look forward to taking time each day to sit and write in their lovely library. 

We head to the pilgrim office to obtain our Compostela, the Camino certificate of completion, and enjoy walking all over Santiago. As we stroll Old Town, Alameda Park, and the Mercado de Abastos food market, I wonder if we will see our pilgrim friends again. 

Before we leave Santiago, we run into the Norwegian couple and the New Zealand family, tearfully hugging and reminiscing. I watch for the Australian couple, thinking I will see them any minute, but I never do. I wish I could’ve told them how wonderful it was to have met them. After stewing about it, I realize that time well spent was in that moment, and rather than worry about what was not, I should be grateful for what was.

As we prepare to depart Santiago, we have a big decision to make. Do we continue our Camino by walking to A Coruña, and Ferrol or travel by train and become tourists?