Category Archives: Travels

Mad About Madison,Wisconsin!

Posted on by
7

Once you learn a thing or two about Madison, you can relax and enjoy your time there:

  • Anywhere else in the world, a badger is a mammal that’s a member of the weasel family, but in Madison, the Wisconsin Badgers are the beloved University of Wisconsin–Madison football team. 
  • Yes, that’s a golden badger on the head of the statue of the woman that graces the top of the elegant Wisconsin Capitol Building. 
  • Should you accept a taste of a cheese curd, a favorite chewy snack, be prepared for the squeak it imparts when bitten into; a good sign that it’s fresh. 
  • Not to be confused with the cheese-shaped foam hat of the same name, a Cheesehead is also the name given to fans of the Green Bay Packers football team. 
  • Yes, that’s a giant hot dog car driving down the street! Oscar Meyer is headquartered in Madison and sometimes there are sightings of its famous Weinermobile.
  • How many cities can boast that they sit between two lakes? Lakes Monona and Mendota are like two beautiful sisters, fishing for compliments, as they try to outsparkle each other.

STAY             
As our Lyft stops in front of our destination, I immediately forget that the surrounding neighborhood is a bit old and made up of student housing- after all, over 50,000 students do call Madison their home! 

The Dylin is a modern, stylish “aparthotel” with 55 apartments – check out their other city locations at Locale. There is a general manager on site, but no front desk. Even though we’ve received the codes to the front door and to our apartment, we still feel welcomed as we enter the chic lobby and outdoor area.

A little bit apartment and a little bit boutique hotel, it is the best of both. The Tuft and Needle mattress and the Bokser bedding immediately elevate our apartment to swanky status. The washer – with available soap pods – and dryer are a nice touch. We swoon over the Fellow tea kettle and Haden toaster and coffeepot, which look like pieces of art.

PLAY
The Dylin is within walking distance to almost everything and we take advantage of the many free things to do: 

With its majestic facade and impressive rotunda, the Wisconsin State Capitol is worth a stop for a complimentary tour and the view from its observation deck. 

The University of Wisconsin–Madison is also a popular tourist attraction. Set on 930 acres of gardens and a nature preserve, the Historic Terrace at Memorial Union sits on Lake Mendota. You can relax in colorful, student-designed chairs while enjoying the view. Before you visit the Chazen Museum of Art – free and on the grounds, grab lunch from one of the many restaurants and ice cream from Babcock Hall Dairy – made on campus.

Stroll the State Street Pedestrian Mall and stop into the Madison Museum of Contemporary Art – free every day. 

Unfortunately, rain curtailed our free visits to the Henry Villas Zoo, the Dane County Farmers Market, the largest producer-only farmers market in the country, made famous on the 2024 season of Top Chef filmed in Wisconsin, and a chamber orchestra concert at Capitol Square.

HIGH LEVEL HAPPY HOUR
Yes, we are at it again, christening every city with our presence at one of their rooftop bars. Our choice, in Madison, is the AC Hotel. A warm breeze, a chilled glass of Chardonnay, and a feeling that you could reach out and touch the Capitol building; it doesn’t get any better than that. 

DINE LIKE A MADISONIAN
Enjoy a Lake View
You say “Monona” and I say “Mendota,” but either lake offers an enhanced dining experience:

It’s been a while since we’ve had French cuisine, so our mouths are watering as we head to Sardine. Our front table allows us a ringside view of Lake Monona as we settle in for a culinary feast of warm duck confit & frisée, steak frites, and seared salmon, accompanied by lentils, spinach and portobello mushrooms. 

Since 1948, the lovely Edgewater Hotel has managed to retain its elegance, having been named “Best of Madison” by Madison Magazine. We can also see why The Boat House Bar & Grill was also voted “Best restaurant with a lake view,” as we lunch on fish and chips on its dock, surrounded by blue skies and the sparkling Lake Mendota. The classy Statehouse restaurant awaits us for dinner. It’s restful evening lake view is the perfect setting for us to enjoy roast chicken with truffle mashed potatoes and salmon with a bourbon honey glaze. 

The Nostalgic Supper Club Experience
Born in the 1950s, supper clubs embraced Wisconsin and never let go. Known for their hand-muddled Brandy Old Fashioneds and a menu serving up traditional American fare – which includes their famous Friday fish fry – you can see why locals can’t get enough of their friendly social atmosphere. 

We don’t mind the 15-minute Lyft ride to Toby’s Supper Club; their 55-year-old reputation makes the trip worthwhile. Supper clubs are not known for their architectural artistry, so the old building and metal door come as no surprise. 

We take a deep breath, open the door, and are transported back in time. The bar is jam packed, and everyone is talking and laughing, including the bartenders, who don’t seem phased at all by the crowd. Oh, if those worn wooden floors could talk! The old dining room is a sea of red plastic tablecloths covering tables full of food and happy diners. We are welcomed and told how to proceed: 

  • Order a drink
  • Peruse the menu
  • Call over a server and order
  • When your dinner is ready, you will be seated. 

It doesn’t take long for us to strike up a conversation with our new standing-room-only friends, but our hunger reminds us that it’s time to order. We stop a server, who is cheery and surprisingly able to hear us over the roar of the crowd.  When she finally leads us to our table, we are struck to find the table already full, with a complimentary relish tray, rolls, butter and even cinnamon rolls – are they in case we’re still there for breakfast?! 

We order the wild caught walleye and can’t resist the pan-fried chicken, since according to the menu “If the Colonel’s chicken was this good, he would have been a General!” Included is soup or salad and a guarantee that we will not be hungry tomorrow. 

It’s been a pleasure getting to know you, Madison. We leave, reminded, once again, that every city has something to celebrate. 

Author’s Note:
If you enjoyed this post, I invite you to like it and share it. 
Don’t forget to go to the Home Page to follow me and receive posts via email.

Austin, Texas: From Staycation to Vacation!

Posted on by
8

We miss you, Austin! Our two years living there gave us that dose of city living that we craved.  Don’t get me wrong; we enjoy where we live now, but we’ve decided every now and then, we need to take a staycation and visit you…unless, of course, we are having such fun that it turns into a vacation!

STAY

We believe that a hotel isn’t just where you sleep; it sets the tone for your entire trip. Based on location, its trendy vibe, and the fact that Cava (a sparkling Spanish wine, similar to champagne) has been served in the lobby from 3 p.m. – 10 p.m. during each of our visits, we’ve chosen the Canopy by Hilton Austin Downtown as our favorite hotel. 

Upscale, yet not excessively expensive (a recent article cited Austin as the third most expensive city in Texas, based on its lodging costs), the indoor-outdoor feel of the Canopy makes it feel more like a retreat.

FYI: We check a hotel’s website for their rates and compare them with Hotels.com. We’ll book at the less expensive price, but we prefer to use Hotels.com when possible, as they offer a loyalty rewards program called “OneKeyCash.” Shared by Hotels.com, Expedia, and Vrbo, it can be used as a form of cashback for future bookings. 

PLAY

Sure, there are the tried-and-true tourist spots, but these are just some of the ways we like to while away our time in Austin:

  • Walk all or some of the 10-mile path around Lady Bird Lake or paddle a rented kayak on the lake. 
  • Head to SOCO – South of Congress to shop and people-watch; sign up online, and Kendra Scott will help you celebrate your birthday month with 50% off one item. Or, take a photo at the famous “I Love You So Much” mural at Joe’s Coffee: 1300 South Congress.  
  • Visit the lovely Umlauf Sculpture Gardens and Museum  Check out their event schedule for information on Family Days and After Dark, which features live jazz and cocktails. 
  • Tucked away in the Hyde Park neighborhood, the Elisabet Ney Museum is currently closed for renovation until Summer 2026, but is worth keeping on your radar for a visit. Her home and museum, listed on the National Register of Historic Places, chronicle her interesting life and amazing work as a sculptor. 
  • Mozart’s Coffee Roasters has a spectacular view of Lake Austin, and features live music and art exhibits. 

HIGH LEVEL HAPPY HOUR

Do cocktails taste better when they are served at a rooftop bar? We think they do! I’m not talking about the Sixth Street, loud music, standing room only bars. I’m referring to an elegant venue with the added treat of a view. Here are our favorites:

  • Located on the fifth floor of the swanky Proper Hotel, La Piscina could very well transport you to a Mediterranean hideaway with its chic ambiance.
  • Who would have guessed that P6 was originally the parking garage for its hotel The Line! The space has been transformed into lovely sitting areas with views of Lady Bird Lake and the Austin skyline.

FYI: Both bars are also restaurants, so reservations for cocktails are a must. 

DINE

  • Lin Asian Bar & Dim Sum Restaurant has been a long-time favorite. Be sure to start with the soup dumplings (complete with a quick lesson as to how to enjoy them) and end with the hot sake for “dessert;” anything you choose in between will be great. 
  • As the next-door neighbor to the South Congress Hotel, Café No Se shares its trendy and downtown chic vibe. After recently enjoying an amazing kale salad and a salmon burger for lunch there, we’ll be back. 
    One of the first places we dined as new Austinites, Taverna, will always have a soft spot in our hearts. Brunch favorites are Avocado Toast and Eggs Benedict. For dinner, we love the sautéed mussels and dream of the Cacio e Pepe. It’s prepared tableside in a large cheese rind. Though it’s no longer on the menu, they will happily accommodate you.  
  • Did you know Walton’s Fancy and Staple is owned by actress Sandra Bullock? It’s conveniently located across the street from the Canopy Hotel and great for breakfast and lunch. My favorite is the spinach and arugula salad with candied walnuts, cheddar cheese, and apples.
  • We were delighted that the popular Chicago restaurant group, Lettuce Entertain You, added an Austin restaurant to their success stories. The restaurant aba in SOCO is a Mediterranean wonderland that artfully combines its indoor and outdoor spaces into the WOW factor. Choose any hummus or any kebab; actually, choose anything on the menu!

FYI: A reservation is a must for both lunch and dinner at most restaurants – Walton’s is the only place where you can walk in. Reserving using the Open Table app allows us to make changes and keep tabs on our booking, plus each reservation earns us points. On our last wedding anniversary, we were able to utilize $75 towards our dinner!

Author’s Note:
If you enjoyed this post, I invite you to like it and share it. 
Don’t forget to go to the Home Page to follow me and receive posts via email.

Image by Achim Thiemermann from Pixabay

Camp Lucy: Luxury + Nature

Posted on by
9

There are some occasions when dining out doesn’t seem like enough. Our 40th wedding anniversary celebration was one of those times and we decided it was the perfect opportunity for a getaway.

Dripping Springs prides itself on offering wedding venues of all kinds

Wanting to try someplace new, after much research, I came upon a resort called Camp Lucy. It is fitting it should be in Dripping Springs, Texas, designated the Wedding Capital of Texas by the Texas House of Representatives in 2015. Located in the Texas Hill Country, known for its picturesque landscapes, the town boasts 35 wedding venues.

Camp Lucy History
Whit Hanks promised himself he would keep the 282 acres he had inherited, away from the hands of developers. With lovely memories of times spent there during the summers, the original home still stood on the grounds.

A former antique dealer turned real estate developer, Whit was on an antique excursion in Vietnam when he came upon the frames of a church and a town hall. Struck by their beauty, intricacy, and workmanship, he purchased them on a whim. Taken apart carefully, each piece was coded and wrapped individually before being shipped.

Not sure what their final purpose would be, he first had the church reconstructed on the property and named it Ian’s Chapel, after his son who had died. Back in 2010, when Whit hosted the first wedding at Ian’s Chapel, there were only three wedding venues in Dripping Springs. Whit jokingly says Kim, a local event planner, started bringing him so much business that it was in his best interest to marry her.

His mother, Lucy, was the inspiration for the resort’s name. With combined creative vision and attention to every detail, Whit and Kim added a pool and lodging. The town building took three months to rebuild into the restaurant, Tillie’s, named after Whit’s grandmother, Attila Hancock. Attila was a prominent Austinite, whose husband, Lewis, served as mayor from 1895 to 1897. Attila and Lewis founded the Austin Country Club, whose golf course is the oldest continuously operated golf course in Texas.

Tillie’s
Driving up the long driveway, we were welcomed by the stone pillars and the Camp Lucy sign. The check-in area held the gift shop and the entrance to Tillie’s. The 400-year-old turquoise doors from India were slightly open, as a tease of what was to come. Pushing open the heavy doors, we were awestruck by the sheer beauty and unexpected uniqueness of the space.

The intricately carved wood frame encircled the space. The French statues of saints are set in individual alcoves from Whit’s private collection. The complex geometric tile flooring was designed for the space. No wonder Tillie’s was voted the most beautiful restaurant in Texas by People magazine and Open Table in their listing of The 50 Most Beautiful Restaurants in America.

We arrived in time for Sunday brunch and agreed, in fairness to our palates, that all meals should be shared. The smoked brisket hash had just the right combination of perfectly prepared brisket combined with potato, onion, peppers, and avocado crema and was topped with sunny-side-up eggs. The dark yellow egg yolks gave a hint that their chickens had recently laid them. The avocado toast was the perfect complement of (freshly baked?) sourdough bread piled high with avocado, cilantro, pickled vegetables, and cotija cheese. Sorbet with fresh berries was just one of the complimentary, anniversary, treats we were surprised with during our visit.

Of course, we dressed for dinner and made a toast with our complimentary glass of Champagne. Watching the beautiful presentations of plates pass by us, we finally decided on a starter of crisp baby romaine, which was much more complex than its name. The piparras peppers, from Spain’s Basque region, were mild and sweet, the pistachios were smokey and the olives, tomatoes, and herbs atop an avocado green goddess dressing were the perfect savory compliment. It was difficult to leave even a dot of the delicious shellfish cream sauce that covered the agnolotti pasta stuffed with potato and shrimp or the spinach coulis that was drizzled over the halibut.

We wondered if the food was as – close your eyes as you savor every bite – delicious, or if the atmosphere lent itself to us believing so. As we devoured what we agreed was, the best egg sandwich we’d ever eaten, the next morning we decided we were correct on both counts.

Lodging
From the wooden key cards to the room’s leather trash cans, the selection of Vietnamese coffees, the electric kettle with various temperature controls, the robes awaiting our arrival in the closet, and the toilet tissue folded into a point, Whit and Kim’s special touches lovingly graced our room. Our Treetop Room had a private balcony that looked out to a lovely hill country view and made it hard to leave. The room’s décor gave us a peak into the couple’s private antique collection.

Our Visit
The resort offers a variety of guest experiences, some included and some for a fee. We opted for the complimentary history tour and alpaca feeding, two great ways to get our bearings. The pool area was a lovely sanctuary, and we swam, slept, and read our afternoons away.

I took a private yoga class, which was held outside on a beautiful morning. My yoga teacher, Stephanie, introduced me to mudras, a Sanskrit word meaning gestures. Mudras are hand and finger gestures that are believed to influence energy flow in the body and mind.

As we walked around the property, a surprise awaited us at every turn: an antique bird cage, a sculpture made more beautiful with its covering of moss, a vineyard producing Camp Lucy wines, an outdoor pavilion, and handmade clay tiles, both from Vietnam. We learned that the stonework, which looked ancient, was installed by master stonemason Dario Camacho. His unique style became so popular customers began referring to it as “Dario style.”

The purchase of an antique Amish barn, brought from Ohio and, once again, painstakingly rebuilt, piece by piece, showcased the simplistic beauty of the wood and its design and is now known as the Great Hall. Measures were taken to make sure the small cross etched into the wood on the outside of the barn was on display. It was a symbol, used by the Underground Railroad, as a secret message denoting a haven for escaped slaves.

The gnarled trees that had grown up and across the dirt path to Sacred Oaks gave this outdoor wedding venue a mystical feel. As the sun dappled through the trees, we walked up to the arch and in front of the empty chairs, set up in rows, had an impromptu vow renewal ceremony. Walking back, the Camp Lucy logo, a heart-shaped emblem and a Vietnamese symbol for love and family, kept appearing on tiles and stones. When we returned to our room, complimentary gold-covered chocolate strawberries awaited our arrival. Another perfect day at Camp Lucy.

Author’s Note:
If you enjoyed this post, please scroll down, like it, and feel free to share it!

Are We Liking Viking? River Cruise Pros and Cons

Posted on by
9

Being known for what you are not, rather than for what you are has been a successful marketing philosophy for Viking. Named #1 for river cruising by Condé Nast Traveler, Viking proudly advertises their “No” listing: 

  • No casinos
  • No children under 18
  • No umbrella drinks
  • No photography sales
  • No art auctions
  • No charge for beer & wine with lunch & dinner
  • No charge for Wi-Fi
  • No inside staterooms
  • No smoking
  • No waiting in lines
  • No formal nights, butlers or white gloves
  • No nickel and diming

Joking that since we now officially had a reservation, rather than just traveling to the Heart of the cities, we now could say in an English accent, we’d be traveling to the “Haat” of the cities, just like on the TV commercials. 

Our Rhine Getaway on the Viking Tialfi takes us from Basel, Switzerland to Amsterdam. The complimentary tour in each city not only enlightens us, but the tour guides also offer insight into what it’s like to live in their cities. No relaxing in the mornings; tours are scheduled early and we meet our tour guides at 8 a.m.

Basel, Switzerland
Basel welcomes all its tourists with free transportation for the duration of their stay. On arrival, you show your hotel reservation on the bus. Once at your hotel, you receive your travel card. 

Our Hotel Spalentor is in a great location and we can walk everywhere. A small, friendly hotel, we agree it’s more of a 3-star, rather than a 4-star hotel, since it does not have a 24-hour front desk and its lobby and lounge looks a bit antiquated. 

There is a modern side of Basel, known as the hub of Switzerland’s pharmaceutical industry, but we are transfixed by the picturesque Alstadt (old town). We hike to the Basler Papiermühle in St. Alban, a medieval mill honoring paper, to lunch in their restaurant and choose to have dinner at Löwenzorn, known for their classic swiss menu. 

The next morning, it’s time to head to the ship. 

The Tialfi
With only having ocean cruise ships to compare it to, our first impression of the ship is that it’s not that attractive. Its long, rectangular shape accommodates the rooms, a restaurant, lounge small library and outdoor sun deck. In true Scandinavian design, areas are modern and minimalistic in neutral shades.

Our room is about half the size of the one on our last ocean voyage and the bathroom is downright tiny, but the floors are heated; a nice touch! River cruising friends suggest we not pay extra for a balcony, since the ships pull into port alongside, rather than behind each other. This makes for views of others’ balconies, rather than lovely vistas. 

Not yet comfortable with the protocols (do we invite ourselves to join others?) and with no seating for two, we and the other guests seem to quickly get our bearings. Before we know it, we meet two other couples who become our cruise pals for the duration and make the trip all the more enjoyable. 

Breisach, Germany
The Black Forest conjures up the dark beauty of its misty, dense forest along with favorite childhood fairytales. It’s a brisk day, but we don’t mind hiking and then learning how the area’s warm climate made it famous for its wine growing. 

Strasbourg, France
Cobblestone streets, “gingerbread” half-timber homes and those iconic canals contributed to the Petite France section of Strasbourg being named a UNESCO World Heritage Site. 

Built between 1015 and 1439, the Strasbourg Cathedral is said to be the world’s most beautiful example of Gothic architecture and holds many secrets and folklore inside its walls. During World War II, Hitler planned to turn it into a German monument. The stained glass windows, removed and hidden in 74 cases in a salt mine for protection, were later found in 1945 by the U.S. military’s “Monument Men.”

Speyer, Germany
The quiet town boasts the Imperial Cathedral, the burial site of eight emperors and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. We are surprised to see a statue honoring Camino pilgrims, some who start their journey from here to Santiago, Spain.  

Koblenz, Germany and Castles Along the Rhine
A light drizzle does not keep the guests from viewing the castles from the ship’s outside deck. As we slowly stride past, we are regaled with their stories and served hot mulled cider to keep us warm.

Cologne, Germany
Cologne seems old and gritty to us. We’re surprised when our tour guide mentions that the outside of the city’s massive Cologne Cathedral, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, could use a good cleaning.  

With 95% of the city bombed after World War II, leave it to the women left behind to ask the Turkish Embassy for assistance. After sending 45,000 workers, Cologne welcomed them to move to their city, creating the Turkish district that still thrives today. 

Kinderdijk, Netherland
Without windmills, water could not have drained from the flat marshy land and farmers could not have grown fruit, vegetables or tulips. Touring the 19 working windmills that still stand, you can appreciate the volunteer millers’ dedication to keeping them in working order. Despite the steep staircases, small living areas and heating bills they must pay for the uninsulated space, families have a long proud tradition of this way of life. 

Amsterdam, Netherlands
In the country of the Netherlands, in the state of Holland sits the city of Amsterdam. Known for its 62 miles of canals and named a UNESCO World Heritage Site, its Dutch Baroque canal houses combine 16th and 17thcentury architecture with a layering of styles through the centuries. Interesting is the exterior pulley at the top of each home, used for hauling furniture to the top floors. 

Practical Amsterdam is known for its water management and its amazing bicycle infrastructure. We were warned that people in Amsterdam are very kind…until they climb on their bicycles… because they will not stop! Each time you cross a street, you must look left, right and then behind you. We did not notice anyone wearing bicycle helmets (not even babies or children), but decided maybe pedestrian tourists should!

We say goodbye to our cruise pals and head to our hotel Jan Lyuken Amsterdam. Originally a townhouse on an upscale residential street, we instantly get the feel of what it might be like to live here. With a lovely library, sitting area, outside garden and dining room, we are treated to breakfast, all day pastries, coffees, an open bar and hors d’ oeuvres. Thank goodness there is an elevator; the very steep staircases that mimic ladders, would never pass code in the U.S. 

The hotel is in the museum district and very central. A canal tour gives us our bearings and takes us all-around the city, which has the feel of a big village. We stroll along the Brouwersgracht Canal, one of the most picturesque, ogling at the stately canal homes and the many houseboats- some quirky, some upscale. The Jordaan neighborhood’s trendy shops lure us in. 

The Anne Frank Museum has become so popular that you must reserve six weeks in advance on their website; we were glad we did. We book the introductory program, to get more background, before heading off on our tour. You could hear a pin drop, as people followed through the rooms, reading the information and taking in the photos, before climbing up to the space in which the families hid for two years; a very emotional experience. 

We spend hours at the Rijksmuseum, the national museum of the Netherlands, awestruck by the works of the great Dutch masters such as Rembrandt, Vermeer and Van Gogh. A free app on our iPhone enlightens us with wonderful background stories. 

It’s worth the walk to the Grand Hotel Amrath, which was originally in the running as a hotel choice. Originally the joint head office of six shipping companies built in 1916, the hotel is an astounding example of Art Nouveau. We can’t decide which is more impressive: the map of the world made of leaded glass on the ceiling, the woodwork carved in Indonesia or the stained glass panels that decorate the dining room ceiling, so we have a cocktail in their bar and mull it over.

Café Wester is a great choice for lunch near the Anne Frank Museum. The Seafood Bar reminds us how delicious great seafood can be and Brasserie Keizer fulfills our craving for French comfort food. 

Will You Choose to Cruise?
A few days in Amsterdam, off the ship, gives us time to ponder how we feel about river cruising. 

As foodies, we can say the meals were good, but didn’t match up to the flavors, sauces and presentations on our last Royal Caribbean cruise, where my favorite joke to our server was “I can’t eat this; it’s too beautiful!”

Though wine and beer are complimentary during lunch and dinner on Viking River Cruises, guests are invited to the lounge every day at 5:30 p.m. for a get-together. Since dinner was not served until 7 p.m., we calculated that rather than purchasing individual drinks, their Silver Spirits Beverage Package was a better option. 

The Tialfi staff, while pleasant, were much more reserved, most probably trained in the Scandinavian style of formality. By day two, everyone we came in contact with on a daily basis on Royal Caribbean was already addressing me as “Miss Linda.” 

Though not the fault of Viking, when the river levels are low (due to no rain), there are times, guests must be transported by bus to a next location. If the ship is able to travel at low river levels, you can expect somewhat loud engine noise at night. 

The days seemed a bit too regimented for us. With only one restaurant, one lounge and piano music in the evening, there was a sameness to the day that some might find comforting. Just when guests were getting to know other guests, each evening at the lounge get together, the ship’s program director would interrupt to present/sell the next day’s afternoon excursions. We had already reviewed them at home and decided there wasn’t anything we were interested in purchasing. With nowhere else to go on the ship, we were a captive audience. 

Whether you’re a river cruiser, ocean cruiser or a landlubber, get out there and enjoy and remember, as Carl Jung once said:

                           “The shoe that fits one person, pinches another”

Author’s Note:
If you enjoyed this post, please scroll down, like it and feel free to share it!

Navigating Royal Caribbean’s Allure of the Seas: When the Going Gets Large, Think Small!

Posted on by
8

We were on a mission; celebrating birthdays left us no choice, but to book a seven-day cruise over the Fourth of July weekend on one of the largest cruise ships in the Royal Caribbean fleet. While larger ships are known to cater to families and children, with a little research and planning, we were able to turn our trip into an enjoyable, adults only vacation.

Rather than fly to our cruise ship departure location, we decide to choose a ship leaving out of Galveston, Texas and drive there. Since we always fly one day ahead to avoid unforeseen mishaps, we also plan to drive ahead of time.

Rather than stay in Galveston, which is quite pricy, we opt for an overnight stop in Sugar Land, Texas, with its lovely Marriott Hotel located in the town’s Market Square amid shops and restaurants. Sugar Land was named for housing the headquarters of the Imperial Sugar Company for two centuries, which was the major U.S. sugar producer at the time.

We reserve and pre-pay for an indoor parking spot at the pier in Galveston. From there, it’s smooth sailing, as the shuttle takes us to the terminal and we are right on schedule for our timed entry on to the ship.

Making our way through a sea of people as we enter on to Royal Caribbean’s Allure of the Seas, we are greeted by rock music and blinking lights. This ship is a floating city and we are feeling a bit intimidated by its sheer size, but are reassured to find out the Allure has won awards for best large cruise ship, best entertainment and best individual ship.

Thank goodness for the friendly staff, decked out in cowboy hats, waiting to attend to our every need. With iPads in hand and with no waiting on line, they quickly secure us reservations at the complimentary shows and a time for dinner in the dining room each evening. Pointing us in the direction of our cabin we, along with the other 5491 passengers (almost double the usual capacity), set out for parts unknown.

                                                                                                                                 Central Park

Our steward welcomes us warmly and after a few minutes of unpacking, we can’t wait to head out and explore. Should we play mini golf, ice skate, climb the rock wall, go zip lining or try out the FlowRider, a 40-foot long surf simulator? We’ll need to visit the Boardwalk and ride the carousel later, but for now, we opt for a stroll through the weaving paths of Central Park, impressed with the real plants and nature sounds piped into the outdoor area and stop at the Rising Tide bar (one of 13 bars on the ship), eager to ride up and down three decks as we enjoy cocktails.

                                                         The Champagne Bar

Rather than the outdoor bars, more conducive to family gatherings, we find that many of the other choices provide a nice start to our evening. We decide the Champagne and Schooner Bars are our favorites. After dinner, its dancing to live music at Boleros or Dazzles.

It’s always a good idea to make a dinner reservation in the main dining room. We are pleased with our table location for the week and the adult occupied tables all-around us. Our wait staff is delightful; professional and so personable, even though in subsequent conversations they share that they all have signed a six to eight month contract and work seven days a week.

                                                                                                                         The Main Dining Room

It amazes us that each evening, each course is beautifully presented, delicious and served at just the right temperature, meaning soups are actually served hot! Even though there are a total of 19 restaurants on board, we choose not to reserve any premium priced options and concur we enjoy the dining rooms over the fast food/buffet options for breakfast and lunch.

We agree the complimentary shows are some of the best we’ve enjoyed on any cruise we’ve sailed on. Momma Mia, a two-and a half-hour production, rivals any Broadway show. The choreography and acrobatics enhanced by the theatrical technology gives Blue Planet an ethereal quality. Blades features professional ice skating and acrobatics combined with amazing stunts and dazzling costumes. We are at the edge of our seats at the open air AquaTheater watching OceanAria, as award winning divers and acrobats go from high diving to trampolining on surfaces that change before your eyes. The comedy performers round out the entertainment and between all that is offered, we are spoiled with a show a night.

Since we’d already been to our ship’s ports, Roatan, Honduras, Costa Maya and Cozumel, Mexico, we set out to see the towns in the morning, then head back to the ship to enjoy its solitude. We have the gym and walking track to ourselves. We relax over quiet lunches and take advantage of the complimentary services offered at the spa, with no waiting in line. Though we still prefer the adult only deck, we are able to choose our favorite chair at any of the pools.

After only a few days, even I, known to be directionally challenged, can maneuver all over the gigantic ship. And just when it’s all starting to feel like home, we’re heading back, but I do so with a smile on my face. Royal Caribbean’s Allure of the Seas has demonstrated an impressive model of community, with its 2384 staff members from 70 different countries working together to bring the best experience to its guests.

                                                                                                Room birthday decorations, compliments of my mom’s steward.

Author’s Note:
If you enjoyed this post, please scroll down, like it and feel free to share it!

The Other New York City

Posted on by
8

Been there, done that, but have you really? Traveling back to your hometown doesn’t have to mean visiting all the touristy sights you’ve already experienced. There’s another layer to every city; an underbelly of interesting, sometimes magical destinations that are there for the taking, but only if you are aware of them. 

So, with a desire to rekindle some great memories and see something new, Mr. Wiz* and I set out to spend a couple of days in good old NYC.

Prices have skyrocketed in New York hotels, so when we noticed the Arlo Hotel Midtown, a four- star hotel, was offering a 40% room discount on hotels.com if you booked your 2023 room reservation by Dec. 1, 2022, we jumped at the chance. Before jumping too high, I researched a bit further and found out the discount was being offered at all their hotels, which made me feel more secure. 

Located on 38th street and ninth Avenue, its central location suits us perfectly. While rooms are on the small side, they are nicely designed and oh, so peaceful and quiet. The lobby area, with its multiple sitting areas and alcoves, including a glass topped atrium, gives off a very cool vibe. Unfortunately, the rooftop terrace was not yet open for the season. We are given vouchers for tea and coffee at their café, saving $4 per cup each day and offered a once daily 20% discount at their bar or restaurant. The staff is very courteous, or maybe it’s the English accents that they all seem to have. 

Day One

Not wanting to waste a minute, our first stop is the West Village, a charming neighborhood in lower Manhattan’s Greenwich Village. With its 19th century townhouses, cobblestone streets and flowers blooming everywhere, it’s easy to forget you’re in NYC. After a bite at Fairfax Tavern, a small French Bistro, we peruse the area and head back uptown. 

Grand Central Terminal houses the iconic Grand Central Oyster Bar, but what most people don’t know is that if you walk toward the restaurant, stand near the domed arches, put your ear against the tiles and take turns speaking in the softest voice, it is also a whispering gallery. And if that’s not clandestine enough for you, how about a cocktail at The Campbell Bar? The private office and reception hall of financier John W. Campbell, now, a bar and event space, celebrates 1920s opulence with its 25-foot hand painted ceilings, majestic furniture and a grand fireplace. For a lovely, peaceful end to the day, we head to the New York Public Library, with its impressive architecture and interesting free exhibits, and then for a stroll through Bryant Park. 

Day Two

First thing in the morning, we’re off to the Nederland Theater box office to secure two tickets to that evening’s performance of “Shucked.” If you are able to narrow down your choice to one show, it is much easier to go directly to the box office, rather than standing on the long lines at the TKTS ticket booth at Broadway and 47thStreet. Be sure to check the theater’s seating chart and choose a few seating options before arriving. 

Choosing a show, then purchasing a $4.95 access code on NYTIX to use for discounted tickets seems simple enough. Unfortunately, after multiple attempts, the code did not work on Ticketmaster and I sympathized with those young girls with no Taylor Swift tickets crying into their computers. It did work perfectly well at the box office. We saved the extra handling service charge and secured $130 seats for $69 each. 

Thank goodness area residents convinced the City of New York to save the historic elevated rail line. The High Line is a refreshing touch of nature and art and a great way to walk to Hudson Yards, our next stop. A brand-new neighborhood, boasting 14 acres of public plazas and gardens, this chic area has revitalized the area between 10th and 12th Avenues from west 30th to west 34th streets. 

The Vessel is the area’s focal point. With interconnecting flights of stairs and multiple landings, the large gleaming sculpture serves as visual eye candy, treating the observer to views of the city from various spaces and offering different perspectives. The Shed, an entertainment venue, is able to adapt itself to its ever-changing calendar of events. After a stroll through The Shops at Hudson Yards, an elegant indoor mall, we’re ready for lunch and the main reason we are here. 

We’ve followed Chef Jose Andres since he worked his magic on food that resembled science experiments at the restaurant, el Bulli in Spain (now closed). When he came to the rescue of hurricane victims, first in Puerto Rico and then all over the world, by setting up World Central Kitchen, a nonprofit devoted to feeding victims of natural disasters, he won our hearts. So, we just had to visit his new endeavor Mercado Little Spain Food Hall. If you’ve ever been to an Eataly, this is the Spanish version, selling both food and merchandise. What makes this more impressive are the large signs explaining how to pronounce the names of Jose’s favorite foods along with explanations of what they are; very unintimidating for any gringos. We “yum” our way through Fabada, a bean and Spanish sausage stew, while we enjoy the restaurant’s music and energy. 

Walking back uptown, we have just enough time to freshen up and enjoy a glass of wine in one of the lobby seating areas before heading to dinner. It’s good to be back at Victor’s Café, an old family favorite. With its colorful art, white tablecloths, elegant, tropical feel and Cuban music playing softly in the background, it brings back wonderful memories.

We hardly need to look at the menu and both agree instantly on Lechón Asado, roast suckling pig served with yucca (a root vegetable) and Moros (a combination of black beans and rice). Since this is one of the few restaurants we’ve encountered that actually uses real saffron (one of the most expensive spices in the world, it’s made from the dried stigmas of a crocus; a little goes a long way), we also can’t resist the Paella De Mariscos, saffron infused rice with shellfish. 

To me, the excitement of Broadway starts with everyone on the streets rushing to their respective theaters and ends with the doors all reopening to let the throngs back out on to the street. In between, we swoon over the talented cast, the singing and dancing and how Shucked keeps us chuckling until they take their final bow. 

As we head back to our hotel on foot, NYC is just getting started for the night, but after 10 miles of galivanting today, I am happy to cuddle up in our quiet room and fall asleep with visions of my hometown, still as exciting as ever, still dancing in my head. 

Photo courtesy of Gerd Altmann from Pixabay

*Who’s who? “Cast of Characters on the “About” page. 

Author’s Note:
If you enjoyed this post, please scroll down, like it and feel free to share it!

Stepping Up and Out in Croatia- October 2022

Posted on by
13

Traveling to Croatia is not for the faint of heart. Between the uneven steps everywhere, that seem to lead to the sky, and the steep limestone streets, worn to a lovely patina, but slippery when wet, you would be smart to come prepared with sneakers/walking shoes. That said, every step you take will be well worth it!

Located in Southeastern Europe, this small country borders Slovenia, Hungary and Serbia. Situated on the Adriatic Sea, Croatia has strived to keep its head above water since the 7th century by being innovative and one step ahead of its enemies. Curving the massive stone walls that protected its cities, this design was more resistant to cannon fire than straight sided fortresses. This helped protect their trading port that rivaled Venice. This small, but mighty country has worked hard to stay afloat, especially after its devastating civil war in the 1990’s. 

The red tiled roofs on the homes nestled into the limestone hills gives the scenery a Mediterranean look, as the Adriatic Sea sparkles below. Blessed with a perfect climate, ancient sites, wonderful food and a grasp of the importance of hospitality, Croatia has become a top tourist destination. 

Touting itself as the quintessential summer destination, massive crowds from over ten cruise ships docking at once have caused their UNESCO World Heritage Site status to be in question. In October, prices drop, crowds dwindle and with temperatures in the 70’s, you can still swim (bring your flip flops; beaches are rocky).

Split
Our taxi stops abruptly. The driver tells us in broken English that he cannot drive any further into the Old City. Just when we’re wondering which way to walk, we see Mario running towards us calling our name. Sent from the hotel to personally carry our luggage and walk us to our hotel, we are already impressed with the Marmont Heritage Hotel. It’s a charming, small hotel (21 rooms) with views of Old Town and Diocletian Palace.

At first glance, Croatia’s second largest city seems so perfect. With its striking scenery and palm trees all overlooking the bright blue Adriatic Sea, it looks like a movie set. Actually, Game of Thrones was filmed throughout Croatia. 

Built in the 4th century AD, by the Roman Emperor, Diocletian, his Palace’s preserved remains form half of Old Town. Museums, shops, restaurants and over 1000 people reside within the walls of the UNESCO World Heritage Site. It’s hard to fathom the historical significance and sheer age of the sights before you.

Diocletian’s mausoleum has been repurposed into the Cathedral of St. Duje and stands as the oldest cathedral in the world. You can enjoy a coffee or a cocktail, sitting on a pillow on the steps of Peristil Square, the original Roman court. Even the Kappa traditional music performed in the square has been granted UNESCO status. The steps taper as you climb the bell tower, but the view at the top is worth it. Make sure to rub the toe of the Grgur Ninski statue for good luck. 

A cocktail with a view is our reward for walking up the steep hill and the many steps amid a forest of pine trees and a peak into an old Jewish cemetery, on our way to Marjan, a hill on the peninsula of the city. Our first Croatian meal introduces us to their Italian influenced cuisine. At Apetit, a 15th century palazzo, the four of us dine on eggplant tempura, seabass, black rice made with squid ink and beef with gnocchi; sharing prevents having to choose just one entrée. After dinner, there’s still time for a lovely stroll on The Riva, the promenade known as “Split’s living room.”.

Hvar
The catamaran from Split to Hvar is large, with comfortable seats and beautiful views. We are warmly welcomed at the dock by a hotel representative, who scoops up our luggage and leads the way. 

This picturesque city has that Wow Factor. The boats and yachts regally swaying in the harbor, the wide, café lined walkways bordering the sea perfect for people watching, this town is sophisticated enough for Prince Harry sightings (pre-Meghan), but casually elegant, so that the city seems unaffected by it all. Metal signs politely announce the fines imposed for improper behavior. Diagonal red lines through a series of drawings get the point across: no bathing suits and no public consumption of alcohol along the main thoroughfares. 

Any hotel that welcomes you with champagne at check-in quickly rises to a favorite. The Adriana Hotel and Spa is contemporary and tastefully furnished in soft colors, but adding just a touch of blue, everywhere you look, to remind you the sea is nearby. Our room is a relaxing haven with spectacular views and an impressive two-person jacuzzi. The hotel’s outdoor pool, patio area and indoor infinity pool remind us to save time to experience them all. With displays of food that are almost too beautiful to eat, such as honey slowly dripping from its honeycomb into a silver bowl, this could very well be the best buffet breakfast we’ve ever encountered. 

It’s a 25-minute walk up to Fortica Spanjola, the town’s fortress and a 16th century prison, but the views make it worthwhile. According to local law, it was abandoned and left for the fairies to dance in at night. That story, along with the gardens and walkways that zig zag down the hill and lead to patios and homes built into the side of the hill, give the area a magical feel. 

We didn’t come all this way to not swim in the Adriatic Sea. We cross the rocky beach and take turns climbing down a ladder into the water. It’s not what we expected, but once we are swimming, it’s hard not to remain a bit longer.

Dalmatino, with its wonderful food served by a highly professional, yet personable staff, gets our vote for our favorite meal. A “Booze Bouche” of carob and brandy playfully replaces the usual Amuse Bouche. Feasting on tuna tartare, gnocchi, sea bass and filet, we couldn’t resist sharing a piece of grandma’s homemade cake. 

The live music we hear coming from the bar, Central Park, perks us up and we decide to stop for a nightcap. Many nightcaps and dances later, we have made some new friends from Canada and Sweden

Dubrovnik 
After another smooth catamaran ride, we arrive at Dubrovnik’s busy port and secure a taxi to our hotel. The Hotel Imperial Dubrovnik is a Hilton property. Classically elegant, its housed in a historic building, just outside the walls of Old Town, dating back to 1897.

Old Town is known as being one of the most perfectly preserved medieval cities in the world. Traffic free and surrounded by rugged limestone mountains and the sun dabbled Adriatic Sea, its steep, winding steps and narrow walkways lure you into the joy of wandering around until you get lost.

It’s a tourist tradition to walk the wall and you’ll pay $33 for the privilege. Be prepared for very steep steps to get to the top, then it’s a 1¼ mile walk all around. Enjoy amazing views, and cafes and shops to stop at along the way. 

Banje Beach is just a short walk from Old Town. Nestled within the impressive coastline, it’s not a sandy beach, but at least pebbles have replaced the rocks we encountered in Hvar and It’s hard not to spend the entire day swimming.

While we did enjoy the dark, quaint Bakus Wine Bar and our chat with a couple from England, the Buza Bar is not to be missed. You enter through a hole in the wall (“buza” is Croatian for hole) and come out the other side to view a bar and tables built on the cliffs. Included in our visit was a show; teenagers jumping from the cliffs, down 30 feet into the water!

The Forty-Four Restaurant stood out, not only for its food, but its presentation. The server wore white gloves and the breaded artichokes with cheese, Korčula macaroni with beef and goat cheese and sea bass with chick peas, swiss chard and tomatoes were creatively served in lovey pottery dishes. 

“Forced” to stay an extra day due to flight changes and with our hotel sold out, we head to the Prijeko Palace for the night. With assistance of the Croatian government, the 15th century palace has been renovated back to its former glory, with a quirky twist. Each of the nine rooms/suites are colorfully decorated in styles ranging from modern to Baroque. The avant-garde rooms are the backdrop for the explosions of photography that line the walls. 

Our travel partners having left for Italy. It’s just the two of us and we decide on a romantic dinner at the palace’s rooftop terrace restaurant, Stara Loza. We are surprised to see what looks like a young girl sitting on the ledge of the wall, but realize it’s an incredible lifelike, life- size sculpture. We smile to think their art had its way of startling us again. 

With lovely vistas of the city, we dine on tuna tartare, veal risotto and squid with potatoes and avocado. It’s one of those perfect evenings. I smile at the older French couple sitting next to us and say ‘Isn’t this just one of the best places in the world?!” That leads to a discussion of their favorite travel destinations.

I take a moment to jot them all down and smile, thinking how this wonderful adventure we’ve had has culminated into a list of where we need to head to next. 

Charleston, South Carolina: A City With Good Taste- November 2022

Posted on by
2

Photo Charleston Plantation                                                    Boone Hall Plantation

You won’t find any skyscrapers in Charleston. The cobblestone streets, horse drawn carriages and pastel colored antebellum homes are a testament to the city’s rigorous preservation and strict architectural guidelines. 

Humbled by its air of aristocracy and elegance, I couldn’t help but think of the element of human suffering that lurks in the city’s shadows. The city was the key port responsible for the sale and transport of enslaved African Americans to all the major cities in the U.S. Rather than shying away from its history, Charleston strives to tell the real stories of its past by honoring it and educating us. 

Stay

Our Airbnb was just a couple of blocks from King Street; the perfect location. It was a lovely, two story home and each bedroom had its own bathroom. I loved the cozy patio on the second floor and all the amenities the owner so thoughtfully left for us.

Savor

This is one of the few cities I’ve visited where making Open Table reservations one – two weeks ahead didn’t ensure our first restaurant choice. I’m not sure if COVID was to blame or if restaurants are always this crowded, but I suggest planning way ahead – especially if you’re a group, like we were. The six of us like to share entrees, so we experience the menu. Since we were in oyster country, our appetizer was a foregone conclusion.

We were introduced to our first taste of South Carolina’s low country cuisine at Delaney’s Oyster House. Seafood based and served mostly with rice, it’s similar to New Orleans’ creole style cooking. Dining in the historic home, we had a view of the palm trees swaying on the outdoor patio as we feasted on crab and rice, swordfish and fried oysters. By the time we dined at Poogan’s Porch, a restored Victorian home, we were well versed in the cuisine and headed right for the shrimp and grits, scallops and fried chicken.

Never ones to pass up French restaurants, we were not disappointed with the mussels and frites at the cozy Bistronomy. At 39 Rye de Jean, housed in a lovely building circa the 1800s, we enjoyed the scallops, pork chops and lamb shank, and chuckled at the sign above the bar that read “Ooh La La.”

We were impressed when one of the members of the Hyman family stopped by our table to greet us. Hyman’s Seafood, the big, rollicking family owned restaurant has been perfecting itself since 1890. We were greeted with tastes of warm hushpuppies while we waited outside for our table (no reservations are accepted). Brian has been cajoling anyone that walks by into tasting their specialty for years. The combination of the warm, cornmeal based golden fritters and his warm smile and big personality, made it hard to say no. While we waited for our (award winning) she crab soup and fried seafood, served with more hushpuppies, we took turns reading aloud the small cards left on the table. Each with its own positive saying, you are invited to choose your favorite and then turn it in at the gift shop for a free magnet with that same saying. You can guess where we headed right after lunch. At first, we were surprised to see six large, old fashioned working sinks in the middle of the shop, but then realized how clever that was. They were placed there to wash your hands with their famous salt scrub and give it a try before you made a purchase. 

The message on the menu read “Lard Have Mercy!” That set the tone for Sunday Brunch at Big Bad Breakfast. After ordering The Jack Benny (a crispy fried hash cake, two poached eggs, sliced ham, wilted spinach, hollandaise and ham powder), it was hard to choose a side, since it seemed as if most of the menu was already on my plate! My choice of the broiled, sugar coated bruleed grapefruit was a good one. Having raised breakfast to an art form, no reservations are accepted, but if there is a wait, it’ll be worth it. 

This is not your ordinary de-sanctified church turned bar/restaurant. Look up to the ceiling at Church and Union and you’ll notice rows of white cursive writing on the black ceiling. Artist, John Morris was commissioned to paint the inspirational messages from “The Wayward Seaman,” the 2500-year old manuscript that discusses the art of war. Penned by Chinese General, Sun Tzu in the fifth century, it provided motivational guidance and strategic thinking that proved applicable in all situations. One of my favorite quotes was “Move swift as the wind and closely formed as the wood.” Working 12 hours each evening, it took Morris six months to complete all 13 chapters. 

Sightsee

Walking to the wharf via historic King Street, it was refreshing to see local and regional shops outnumber national chains. Eclectic, yet exuding sophistication, we were taken with the area’s vibe. Across from waterfront park, you couldn’t help but stop in front of each mansion along the street to relish its splendor and wonder about its past.

When in Charleston, a plantation tour is a must! Named the No. 1 plantation in Charleston by USA Today, we chose Boone Hall Plantation, not the closest, but well worth the Uber ride. Built in 1681 by Englishman Major John Boone, the 738-acre estate is listed on the National Register of Historic Places and is still a working farm.

Our tickets included an entire day of events and tours. Boone Hall is the only Charleston plantation to present a distinctive presentation titled “The Gullah Culture,” in which descendants of the Gullah people present the history of their slave culture through stories, song and dance. A tour of the mansion built in 1936 provided us with some background into the life of a plantation owner. A 40-minute tour of the grounds on a motorized tractor helped us appreciate the vastness of the property and its farm. The self-guided tour of the nine original slave cabins dating back to 1790 – 1810, were an emotional glimpse into the aspects of daily life.  

Still eager to discover more about this amazing city, we booked a walking tour through Walks of Charleston. Not only did our tour guide, Amy Tankersley, have a wonderful sense of humor, she had a way of making every detail interesting. Who else would take it upon themselves to actually construct a diorama in order to explain the original city’s walls?! I particularly loved the alleys we visited; narrow public streets that widened to all of a sudden surprise you with glances of interesting homes and beautiful gardens. We would never have found these hidden gems on our own or gained so much insight into Charleston. 

In only a few short days, Charleston had succeeded in winning us over us with its southern charm, reminding us “Y’all come back now, ya hear?”

Photo Charleston Alley

                                            Another “secret” public street

Something Old, Something New Mexico- October 2021

Posted on by
Reply

Photo Santa Fe 1

Albuquerque

New Mexico’s largest city, Albuquerque, spreads itself out in two distinct areas: a modern downtown and the historic Old Town, made up of adobe buildings dating back to 1706. 

Old Town is where we wanted to be, so we chose the Hotel Albuquerque, just a short walk away. The hotel lobby, with its tile floors, white adobe walls, rustic chandeliers and tooled leather furniture made up for the plainly decorated rooms. 

Shops and galleries specializing in Native America lined Old Town’s Plaza. Winding paths, placitas (small plazas) and gardens softened the tourist feel. The Sawmill Market, the 25.000 square foot artisanal food hall/market sits alongside lofts, artist studios and retail space in the Historic Sawmill District.

Dinner at El Patio was worth the drive. The old hacienda with its lush gardens and famous tree lined patio is home to their famous sopaipillas (English translation- sofa pillows); deep fried pastry eaten with honey as a bread. Serving Northern New Mexican food for the last 40 years, the large dining room at Tomasita’s had a loud, cheerful vibe and was the perfect place to share some of its lunch specialties.

The highlight of our Albuquerque visit was our stay at the Hotel Parq Central on our return to Albuquerque the last night of our trip. Though not as centrally located as the Hotel Albuquerque, the hotel provides shuttle service to the airport and within a three-mile radius of the hotel.

Listed on the National Historic Register, the hotel was once the home of the hospital for the Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe railroad employees. Painstakingly renovated back to its 1926 splendor, every space exuded art deco elegance. I made it a point to luxuriate on a chaise lounge in the sun filled conservatory after our gourmet continental breakfast (included). We toasted to our last day in New Mexico while rocking in custom made rockers in the lovely manicured garden with a central fountain. Having visited their rooftop bar, The Apothecary, for a daytime view of the mountains, we just had to have a nightcap and a glimpse of the city view.

Santa Fe

Nestled in the rugged foothills of the Sangre Christo Mountains, travelers have long been  attracted to Santa Fe for its mystical energy and health focus. Not sure I completely understood, I was told by friends to “allow the environment to introduce itself by exploring its space.”

Explore we did and I began to recognize and appreciate the peaceful vibe. Even though the streets were crowded, there was this ever-present feeling of tranquility. Everyone seemed laid back and there no loud sounds trying to grab your attention.

Since a few of us were traveling together, an Airbnb was the perfect choice. It’s fun to breakfast and cocktail together each day, while still having your own space. A bottle of wine was there to greet us when we entered Casa Nona’s Two Casitas and we were immediately charmed by the Southwestern style furniture, heated floors and Kiva fireplace. 

Thanks to the audio tour, included in the ticket price (don’t forget your earbuds!), the Georgia O’Keefe Museum came alive and helped us to understand this iconic modernist artist. This quote of hers seemed to sum it all up – “I found I could say things with flowers and shapes that I couldn’t say any other way…things I had no words for.”

A visit to Meow Wolf’s House of Eternal Return was a must. Described as “a mind bending, interactive, immersive, explorable art experience,” it’s 70 rooms featured hands on art. Picture 100 artists given carte blanche to create their innermost psychedelic dreams in a cavernous space. As we entered through, what looked like a home, we quickly realized the only way to continue was either opening the refrigerator and walking through it or opening the clothes dryer door and sliding down it. Part jungle gym, part haunted house and part children’s museum, we all were enthralled with the level of creativity and downright outlandishness and realized the best way back to reality was via their bar. While the adventurous one in our group opted for a neon colored cocktail topped with cotton candy, the rest of us were content with a cold beer. 

Photo Santa Fe 2

We all agreed that dinner at Luminaria at the Inn and Spa at Loretta stood out as outstanding. We’re not sure what impressed us most: the adobe architecture, the famed Angus beef filet, the Heritage Duroc pork, or the purple potatoes. 

At $1300 per night, The Bishops Lodge is a soulful retreat on 317 secluded acres that border the Santa Fe National Forest and is the winner of the National Geographic Legacy Award. We brunched at their restaurant, Skyfire, which allowed us to tour the grounds, get a feel for the pueblo style resort/ranch’s ambiance and have a taste of their excellent roasted shrimp and grits with smoked pork belly.

On the other end of the spectrum, when we read that Dolina Bakery & Cafe, a small rather non-descript looking restaurant serving Eastern European food, was named one of the top restaurants, we had no choice but to give it a try. The chicken and waffles left us wondering how we could fit in another visit before we even left. 

Shopping the historic Santa Fe Plaza, we stopped in every shop and gallery until we each found just the right souvenir to bring home as a reminder of this very special city. 

Taos

Though a few extra miles drive, we chose to take the High Road, the 56-mile scenic winding road through the Sangre de Cristo Mountains. Passing desert, mountains, forests and tiny pueblos, our first stop was El Santuario in Chimayo. Known as the “Lourdes of America,” three hundred thousand people make the pilgrimage here each year to dig up some of the sacred dirt, which, much like the water at Lourdes, is said to grant miracles. 

The Greater World Earthship Biotecture Community peaked our curiosity and we had to see it for ourselves. Back in the 1970s, architect Mike Reynolds purchased a sprawling 600-acre mesa and began creating homes that were entirely off the grid. Utilizing solar and wind power, these “earthships” were intentionally constructed out of recycled, reused and reclaimed materials. Rather than appearing to be space or hippy like dwellings, the homes had a surprisingly stylish look to them and a video of their interiors was rather impressive. Our only regret was that we realized too late we could have booked an overnight stay in one; next time!

Rather than book one of the resorts that offer a body-mind-spirit experience, due to our short visit, we opted to stay in town at the Hotel Don Fernando de Taos. Once again, a charming Southwest lobby gave way to non-descript rooms.

In the lovely little plaza and historic district, we chatted with an artist and purchased one of her watercolors of Chimayo. At the historic Taos Inn, we enjoyed Happy Hour and live music at Doc Martens, AKA “Taos’ living room,” and wondered why we hadn’t arrived in New Mexico sooner.

Photo Santa Fe 3

Arkansas: The End

Posted on by
4

Photo Arkansas The End

Tourists enjoyed seeing  my employee and I dressed in “old timey” outfits

I didn’t let the rain deter me. Hoping tourists might consider this weather a good shopping day, I happily straightened up the displays in the store, put on the background music and unlocked the door. A young couple, dressed in jeans and T-shirts, came in almost immediately and took a keen interest in the Granny Chicken paintings. We chatted for a while and they said they’d be back later.

When they returned, they asked what kind of deal they could get if they bought all of her paintings. It added up to thousands of dollars (primitive art does not come cheap), so to show some goodwill (and because Granny Chicken had made most of the frames), I gave them a framing discount. A year later, we visited them in Carmel, California, and were awestruck as to how beautiful her art looked, professionally framed in their all white home and art gallery. (with even higher price tags on them).

Mr. Wiz* and I discovered some local, handmade iron products, tracked down the owner and set up a meeting. We negotiated to carry their product line on consignment and Mr. Wiz struck up a friendship with the owner. They started discussing him joining the company and soon after, Mr. Wiz became a partner. The joke around town was that he was the only partner that actually owned a suit. This came in handy when Mr. Wiz successfully secured the company’s first bank line of credit.

This was a real American success story. Stone County Ironworks was a one-man operation started in an old gas station. David, the owner and a self-proclaimed hippy (if you ever wondered where all the hippies went, it was Arkansas) slowly grew the company and was able to hire more blacksmiths. This was tough work and his staff looked like a group of Hells Angels, though they were the sweetest guys. In time, the company became the largest production blacksmith company in the United States and was listed in the Inc. 500, a listing of the top 500 fastest growing U.S. companies.

If all of this wasn’t exciting enough, after five years of married life and wondering if we’d ever become parents, I became pregnant. For this reason, Arkansas will always have a special place in my heart. Weighing in at 10 pounds, 1 ½ ounces, I found out later that if Big A* had been born in Baylor University Hospital, he would have received a full football scholarship.

I had a big decision to make. I loved Mountain View Mercantile, but realized that working 10 – 12 hours a day and motherhood did not mix. We wound up selling the building and the store to Stone County Ironworks and I began working for them part-time in public relations and marketing. My first assignment was to interview the owner, David, in order to enter him in the Arkansas Small Business Person of the Year contest. Very shy and close mouthed, it wasn’t easy to get him to open up, but in the end, he shared just enough so that his story won him the honor. Soon, he’d be off to Washington, D.C. and return home with the second runner-up national award.

With products too heavy for shipping, the Ironworks had a fleet of trucks to travel to trade shows. The blacksmiths welded a special seat up front for Big A’s car seat and off we’d go together, traveling across the United States. Mr. Wiz laughs now to think how he would set up the trade show booths with Big A on his back in a baby carrier.

It was when Big A turned two that we started thinking of the future. The Arkansas schools were rated No. 48 and though we got our fill of traveling and dining out on the road, there would probably come a time when we’d have to settle down. Mountain View had no restaurants to speak of, even the little movie theater closed up in the winter and Little Rock was two hours away.

After many family meetings, we decided to head back to a city, but rather than let a job lead us, Mr. Wiz suggested we chose the city first and then he’d find a job there. We settled on Chicago and as luck would have it, his first phone call to an old friend landed Mr. Wiz a position helping him run his new company.

Though that was so many years ago, I never forgot that little town and still keep in touch with some of the people there. It was small enough so that I wasn’t intimidated to follow my dreams, large enough to show me how important living in a close-knit community was and just quirky enough to make for some great memories.

 

*Who’s who? See “Cast of Characters” on the “About” page.

Author’s Note:
If you enjoyed this post, please scroll down, like it and feel free to share it!