Please note:
– e = euro. The dollar and the euro are currently almost equal in value.
– Mr. Wiz = my husband, Michael, who is well versed on almost every subject and seems to know the answer to almost every question.

The French Route
Oct. 8: Madrid to Burgos
The Renfe high speed train station and plaza are jam packed. In typical Spanish fashion, people are talking, laughing, drinking, and eating. After our long travels, we opt for a quiet dinner at the nearby Charmartín Hotel dining room, We enjoy two glasses of wine each, along with a delicious three course dinner for 24 euros each. In Texas, $24 would barely cover two glasses of wine.

Hotel Rice Palacio de los Blasones, located in Old Town Burgos, a perfect location, is charming. Our room’s beamed ceilings, stone wall, and small balcony balance well with the contemporary furnishings.

Oct. 9: Burgos
Burgos still exhibits signs of its medieval splendor. The esplanade with its topiaries and sculptures, is the place where families and friends still dress up, meet (originally in horse and carriages, now strolling), and stop for a drink or a cafe con leche (espresso and steamed milk).

The capital of Leon and Castile for five centuries, its 12 entry gates and winding cobblestone streets give the city old world charm, but it’s the cathedral that is its highlight.

Construction on the Catedral de Santa Maria de Burgos began in 1221 and ended in 1567, bringing together famous architects and artists of the day to perfect the Gothic style of this UNESCO World Heritage Site.

What is a UNESCO World Heritage site?
In 1972, the United Nations Educational, Scientific, and Cultural Organization (UNESCO) adopted a treaty for “the identification, protection, and preservation of natural heritage around the world.” This agreement is unique in that 195 countries have pledged to secure the world’s most significant natural and cultural heritage from threats such as natural disasters, mass tourism, wars, and construction.

Rodrigo Diaz de Vivar, known as El Cid, is buried in the cathedral. The 11th century nobleman and military leader was born near Burgos and is Spain’s most celebrated national folk hero.

We arrive on the tail end of a hurricane. We haven’t started walking yet, so the heavy winds and occasional drizzle doesn’t affect us, but we later hear stories of some near accidents from walking and cycling pilgrims who were unaware of the storm’s magnitude.

Oct. 10: Hornillos del Camino- 12 miles
“Dale!” (Let’s do it!) It’s cloudy and cool; perfect for walking. The sunflower fields go on forever, with the sunflowers proudly standing straight up, not realizing that their golden flowers have given way to dead, black ones. The fields are a patchwork of fall colors, all mowed down for the season into what looks like suede. 

We stop at a church to get a “sello,” a stamp on our pilgrim passport, which will be a lovely souvenir of places visited. The long line of pilgrims doesn’t deter the enthusiasm of the two nuns greeting each of us. When it’s my turn, the nun not only presents me with a medal to wear, she also blesses me and clasps my hand. I feel overwhelmed with emotion and vow to wear the necklace every day.

Hornillos del Camino is a dilapidated town. With a population of 70, the decrepit buildings are a hodgepodge of different building materials. As with all of these old towns, they were once bustling commerce centers along the Camino and seem to come alive again with the arrival of pilgrims. They proudly continue their tradition of serving pilgrims and are grateful for the economy they bring.

La Casa del Abuelo is plain and old, but it’s clean and welcoming. Their sheets billow in the wind on the clothesline, interspersed with pilgrims’ clothes. The courtyard, with its unmatched tables and chairs, takes on an upbeat vibe, as pilgrims talk and laugh. A pilgrim from Idaho, with seven children and 14 grandchildren, regales us with his adventures of shooting feral hogs in Texas for $50 each and being welcomed into a motorcycle gang he had no interest in joining.

The sign on the bar says it’s closed for an hour and I assume the señora/owner is taking a rest. I happen to glance through the window and watch her lovingly feeding her mother and imagine how very full her days must be. When we leave, I tell her how special she is to care for family and for us and we hug.

Oct. 11: Castrojerez- 13 miles
We’ve just enjoyed our first, second breakfast; a Camino tradition. It’s a cool, quiet morning and the rocky trail keeps us focused on our footsteps. We stop at the Ruinas del Convento de San Antón, a monastery from the 14th century, which devoted itself to caring for pilgrims.

With a population of 500, this sleepy town mirrors Hornillos. There’s not much to discover on our walk around town and we joke with a couple from Northern Ireland, asking each other if there’s something we’ve missed. The senior couple both live on the Irish Sea ( she swims in the see each morning!) and they met by chance on the beach only a year ago. We all agree, if we lived closer, we would be fast friends.

El Manzano, our alburgue, is plain and clean. We are glad for the savvy companies that deliver ready made pizzas, pastas, and paellas to these establishments, leaving their customers with just the task of heating them up and serving them hot and fresh to us. Our dinner entertainment is hearing the story of a family cycling the Camino with a 10 year old ( who is also biking) and his mother pulling an infant carrier. When they finish the Camino, they plan to camp in Morocco for six months.

Oct. 12: Fromista- 16 miles
We immediately start the day with a strenuous long, steep climb and an even steeper descent. Both seem never ending, but we are entertained by stories from couples that moved from St. Louis to the Virgin Islands and from Washington D.C to Sitka, Alaska. We make it a point to stop every two hours, take off our packs and hydrate, to help us keep going.

With a declining population of 840, Fromista also mirrors Hornillos, except for its Inglesia de San Martín, which is said to be the finest example of Romanesque architecture in Spain!

Ready for a shower, we can’t seem to find any soap in our room at the Hotel Rural San Pedro, another plain and clean establishment. It seems the soap dispenser is in the shower and it makes us laugh. At home, we are so fussy about what shampoo and soap we use, but here the neon hot pink soap is just fine with us.

It’s a holiday, there are limited restaurant choices and pilgrims are hungry. Many of us line up outside a place that opens at 6 p.m. (and not the usual 8 p.m.), and are disappointed to find out a group of Korean travelers have reserved the entire restaurant. Thank goodness for the small bar that serves that same prepared food we enjoyed the day before.

Oct. 13: Carrión de los Condes- 12 miles
Famous Camino guidebook author, John Brierley, calls this part of the walk the “soulless senda” or path. Whether it’s the two, narrow, side by side paths that run alongside nondescript fields or the highway, this becomes the perfect time for reflection and introspection.

This time, we found the staff aloof and preoccupied and later were disappointed to find out other pilgrims staying there were never invited to visit their lovely church, museum, and cloisters, nor were they told about the discounted dinner menu for guests of the hotel, which we asked about and did receive.

Mr. Wiz has taken it upon himself to be in charge of doing our laundry. The laundromat is busy and chaotic, with pilgrims from all parts of the world waiting their turn. We laugh with a woman from Canada who’s next and says she’s not sure if she should place her laundry bag in front of the machine or just sit in front of it. Mr. Wiz explains the process to anyone that looks confused and I ask him if he’s running for mayor or just wants a job running the place.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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