Being known for what you are not, rather than for what you are has been a successful marketing philosophy for Viking. Named #1 for river cruising by Condé Nast Traveler, Viking proudly advertises their “No” listing: 

• No casinos
• No children under 18
• No umbrella drinks
• No photography sales
• No art auctions
• No charge for beer & wine with lunch & dinner
• No charge for Wi-Fi
• No inside staterooms
• No smoking
• No waiting in lines
• No formal nights, butlers or white gloves
• No nickel and diming

Joking that since we now officially had a reservation, rather than just traveling to the Heart of the cities, we now could say in an English accent, we’d be traveling to the “Haat” of the cities, just like on the TV commercials. 

Our Rhine Getaway on the Viking Tialfi takes us from Basel, Switzerland to Amsterdam. The complimentary tour in each city not only enlightens us, but the tour guides also offer insight into what it’s like to live in their cities. No relaxing in the mornings; tours are scheduled early and we meet our tour guides at 8 a.m.

Basel, Switzerland
Basel welcomes all its tourists with free transportation for the duration of their stay. On arrival, you show your hotel reservation on the bus. Once at your hotel, you receive your travel card. 

Our Hotel Spalentor is in a great location and we can walk everywhere. A small, friendly hotel, we agree it’s more of a 3-star, rather than a 4-star hotel, since it does not have a 24-hour front desk and its lobby and lounge looks a bit antiquated. 

There is a modern side of Basel, known as the hub of Switzerland’s pharmaceutical industry, but we are transfixed by the picturesque Alstadt (old town). We hike to the Basler Papiermühle in St. Alban, a medieval mill honoring paper, to lunch in their restaurant and choose to have dinner at Löwenzorn, known for their classic swiss menu. 

The next morning, it’s time to head to the ship. 

The Tialfi
With only having ocean cruise ships to compare it to, our first impression of the ship is that it’s not that attractive. Its long, rectangular shape accommodates the rooms, a restaurant, lounge small library and outdoor sun deck. In true Scandinavian design, areas are modern and minimalistic in neutral shades.

Our room is about half the size of the one on our last ocean voyage and the bathroom is downright tiny, but the floors are heated; a nice touch! River cruising friends suggest we not pay extra for a balcony, since the ships pull into port alongside, rather than behind each other. This makes for views of others’ balconies, rather than lovely vistas. 

Not yet comfortable with the protocols (do we invite ourselves to join others?) and with no seating for two, we and the other guests seem to quickly get our bearings. Before we know it, we meet two other couples who become our cruise pals for the duration and make the trip all the more enjoyable. 

Breisach, Germany
The Black Forest conjures up the dark beauty of its misty, dense forest along with favorite childhood fairytales. It’s a brisk day, but we don’t mind hiking and then learning how the area’s warm climate made it famous for its wine growing. 

Strasbourg, France
Cobblestone streets, “gingerbread” half-timber homes and those iconic canals contributed to the Petite France section of Strasbourg being named a UNESCO World Heritage Site. 

Built between 1015 and 1439, the Strasbourg Cathedral is said to be the world’s most beautiful example of Gothic architecture and holds many secrets and folklore inside its walls. During World War II, Hitler planned to turn it into a German monument. The stained glass windows, removed and hidden in 74 cases in a salt mine for protection, were later found in 1945 by the U.S. military’s “Monument Men.”

Speyer, Germany
The quiet town boasts the Imperial Cathedral, the burial site of eight emperors and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. We are surprised to see a statue honoring Camino pilgrims, some who start their journey from here to Santiago, Spain.  

Koblenz, Germany and Castles Along the Rhine
A light drizzle does not keep the guests from viewing the castles from the ship’s outside deck. As we slowly stride past, we are regaled with their stories and served hot mulled cider to keep us warm.

Cologne, Germany
Cologne seems old and gritty to us. We’re surprised when our tour guide mentions that the outside of the city’s massive Cologne Cathedral, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, could use a good cleaning.  

With 95% of the city bombed after World War II, leave it to the women left behind to ask the Turkish Embassy for assistance. After sending 45,000 workers, Cologne welcomed them to move to their city, creating the Turkish district that still thrives today. 

Kinderdijk, Netherland
Without windmills, water could not have drained from the flat marshy land and farmers could not have grown fruit, vegetables or tulips. Touring the 19 working windmills that still stand, you can appreciate the volunteer millers’ dedication to keeping them in working order. Despite the steep staircases, small living areas and heating bills they must pay for the uninsulated space, families have a long proud tradition of this way of life. 

Amsterdam, Netherlands
In the country of the Netherlands, in the state of Holland sits the city of Amsterdam. Known for its 62 miles of canals and named a UNESCO World Heritage Site, its Dutch Baroque canal houses combine 16^th and 17^thcentury architecture with a layering of styles through the centuries. Interesting is the exterior pulley at the top of each home, used for hauling furniture to the top floors. 

Practical Amsterdam is known for its water management and its amazing bicycle infrastructure. We were warned that people in Amsterdam are very kind…until they climb on their bicycles… because they will not stop! Each time you cross a street, you must look left, right and then behind you. We did not notice anyone wearing bicycle helmets (not even babies or children), but decided maybe pedestrian tourists should!

We say goodbye to our cruise pals and head to our hotel Jan Lyuken Amsterdam. Originally a townhouse on an upscale residential street, we instantly get the feel of what it might be like to live here. With a lovely library, sitting area, outside garden and dining room, we are treated to breakfast, all day pastries, coffees, an open bar and hors d’ oeuvres. Thank goodness there is an elevator; the very steep staircases that mimic ladders, would never pass code in the U.S. 

The hotel is in the museum district and very central. A canal tour gives us our bearings and takes us all-around the city, which has the feel of a big village. We stroll along the Brouwersgracht Canal, one of the most picturesque, ogling at the stately canal homes and the many houseboats- some quirky, some upscale. The Jordaan neighborhood’s trendy shops lure us in. 

The Anne Frank Museum has become so popular that you must reserve six weeks in advance on their website; we were glad we did. We book the introductory program, to get more background, before heading off on our tour. You could hear a pin drop, as people followed through the rooms, reading the information and taking in the photos, before climbing up to the space in which the families hid for two years; a very emotional experience. 

We spend hours at the Rijksmuseum, the national museum of the Netherlands, awestruck by the works of the great Dutch masters such as Rembrandt, Vermeer and Van Gogh. A free app on our iPhone enlightens us with wonderful background stories. 

It’s worth the walk to the Grand Hotel Amrath, which was originally in the running as a hotel choice. Originally the joint head office of six shipping companies built in 1916, the hotel is an astounding example of Art Nouveau. We can’t decide which is more impressive: the map of the world made of leaded glass on the ceiling, the woodwork carved in Indonesia or the stained glass panels that decorate the dining room ceiling, so we have a cocktail in their bar and mull it over.

Café Wester is a great choice for lunch near the Anne Frank Museum. The Seafood Bar reminds us how delicious great seafood can be and Brasserie Keizer fulfills our craving for French comfort food. 

Will You Choose to Cruise?
A few days in Amsterdam, off the ship, gives us time to ponder how we feel about river cruising. 

As foodies, we can say the meals were good, but didn’t match up to the flavors, sauces and presentations on our last Royal Caribbean cruise, where my favorite joke to our server was “I can’t eat this; it’s too beautiful!”

Though wine and beer are complimentary during lunch and dinner on Viking River Cruises, guests are invited to the lounge every day at 5:30 p.m. for a get-together. Since dinner was not served until 7 p.m., we calculated that rather than purchasing individual drinks, their Silver Spirits Beverage Package was a better option. 

The Tialfi staff, while pleasant, were much more reserved, most probably trained in the Scandinavian style of formality. By day two, everyone we came in contact with on a daily basis on Royal Caribbean was already addressing me as “Miss Linda.” 

Though not the fault of Viking, when the river levels are low (due to no rain), there are times, guests must be transported by bus to a next location. If the ship is able to travel at low river levels, you can expect somewhat loud engine noise at night. 

The days seemed a bit too regimented for us. With only one restaurant, one lounge and piano music in the evening, there was a sameness to the day that some might find comforting. Just when guests were getting to know other guests, each evening at the lounge get together, the ship’s program director would interrupt to present/sell the next day’s afternoon excursions. We had already reviewed them at home and decided there wasn’t anything we were interested in purchasing. With nowhere else to go on the ship, we were a captive audience. 

Whether you’re a river cruiser, ocean cruiser or a landlubber, get out there and enjoy and remember, as Carl Jung once said:

                           “The shoe that fits one person, pinches another”

Author’s Note:
If you enjoyed this post, please scroll down, like it and feel free to share it!