Are We Liking Viking? River Cruise Pros and Cons

Being known for what you are not, rather than for what you are has been a successful marketing philosophy for Viking. Named #1 for river cruising by Condé Nast Traveler, Viking proudly advertises their “No” listing: 

  • No casinos
  • No children under 18
  • No umbrella drinks
  • No photography sales
  • No art auctions
  • No charge for beer & wine with lunch & dinner
  • No charge for Wi-Fi
  • No inside staterooms
  • No smoking
  • No waiting in lines
  • No formal nights, butlers or white gloves
  • No nickel and diming

Joking that since we now officially had a reservation, rather than just traveling to the Heart of the cities, we now could say in an English accent, we’d be traveling to the “Haat” of the cities, just like on the TV commercials. 

Our Rhine Getaway on the Viking Tialfi takes us from Basel, Switzerland to Amsterdam. The complimentary tour in each city not only enlightens us, but the tour guides also offer insight into what it’s like to live in their cities. No relaxing in the mornings; tours are scheduled early and we meet our tour guides at 8 a.m.

Basel, Switzerland
Basel welcomes all its tourists with free transportation for the duration of their stay. On arrival, you show your hotel reservation on the bus. Once at your hotel, you receive your travel card. 

Our Hotel Spalentor is in a great location and we can walk everywhere. A small, friendly hotel, we agree it’s more of a 3-star, rather than a 4-star hotel, since it does not have a 24-hour front desk and its lobby and lounge looks a bit antiquated. 

There is a modern side of Basel, known as the hub of Switzerland’s pharmaceutical industry, but we are transfixed by the picturesque Alstadt (old town). We hike to the Basler Papiermühle in St. Alban, a medieval mill honoring paper, to lunch in their restaurant and choose to have dinner at Löwenzorn, known for their classic swiss menu. 

The next morning, it’s time to head to the ship. 

The Tialfi
With only having ocean cruise ships to compare it to, our first impression of the ship is that it’s not that attractive. Its long, rectangular shape accommodates the rooms, a restaurant, lounge small library and outdoor sun deck. In true Scandinavian design, areas are modern and minimalistic in neutral shades.

Our room is about half the size of the one on our last ocean voyage and the bathroom is downright tiny, but the floors are heated; a nice touch! River cruising friends suggest we not pay extra for a balcony, since the ships pull into port alongside, rather than behind each other. This makes for views of others’ balconies, rather than lovely vistas. 

Not yet comfortable with the protocols (do we invite ourselves to join others?) and with no seating for two, we and the other guests seem to quickly get our bearings. Before we know it, we meet two other couples who become our cruise pals for the duration and make the trip all the more enjoyable. 

Breisach, Germany
The Black Forest conjures up the dark beauty of its misty, dense forest along with favorite childhood fairytales. It’s a brisk day, but we don’t mind hiking and then learning how the area’s warm climate made it famous for its wine growing. 

Strasbourg, France
Cobblestone streets, “gingerbread” half-timber homes and those iconic canals contributed to the Petite France section of Strasbourg being named a UNESCO World Heritage Site. 

Built between 1015 and 1439, the Strasbourg Cathedral is said to be the world’s most beautiful example of Gothic architecture and holds many secrets and folklore inside its walls. During World War II, Hitler planned to turn it into a German monument. The stained glass windows, removed and hidden in 74 cases in a salt mine for protection, were later found in 1945 by the U.S. military’s “Monument Men.”

Speyer, Germany
The quiet town boasts the Imperial Cathedral, the burial site of eight emperors and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. We are surprised to see a statue honoring Camino pilgrims, some who start their journey from here to Santiago, Spain.  

Koblenz, Germany and Castles Along the Rhine
A light drizzle does not keep the guests from viewing the castles from the ship’s outside deck. As we slowly stride past, we are regaled with their stories and served hot mulled cider to keep us warm.

Cologne, Germany
Cologne seems old and gritty to us. We’re surprised when our tour guide mentions that the outside of the city’s massive Cologne Cathedral, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, could use a good cleaning.  

With 95% of the city bombed after World War II, leave it to the women left behind to ask the Turkish Embassy for assistance. After sending 45,000 workers, Cologne welcomed them to move to their city, creating the Turkish district that still thrives today. 

Kinderdijk, Netherland
Without windmills, water could not have drained from the flat marshy land and farmers could not have grown fruit, vegetables or tulips. Touring the 19 working windmills that still stand, you can appreciate the volunteer millers’ dedication to keeping them in working order. Despite the steep staircases, small living areas and heating bills they must pay for the uninsulated space, families have a long proud tradition of this way of life. 

Amsterdam, Netherlands
In the country of the Netherlands, in the state of Holland sits the city of Amsterdam. Known for its 62 miles of canals and named a UNESCO World Heritage Site, its Dutch Baroque canal houses combine 16th and 17thcentury architecture with a layering of styles through the centuries. Interesting is the exterior pulley at the top of each home, used for hauling furniture to the top floors. 

Practical Amsterdam is known for its water management and its amazing bicycle infrastructure. We were warned that people in Amsterdam are very kind…until they climb on their bicycles… because they will not stop! Each time you cross a street, you must look left, right and then behind you. We did not notice anyone wearing bicycle helmets (not even babies or children), but decided maybe pedestrian tourists should!

We say goodbye to our cruise pals and head to our hotel Jan Lyuken Amsterdam. Originally a townhouse on an upscale residential street, we instantly get the feel of what it might be like to live here. With a lovely library, sitting area, outside garden and dining room, we are treated to breakfast, all day pastries, coffees, an open bar and hors d’ oeuvres. Thank goodness there is an elevator; the very steep staircases that mimic ladders, would never pass code in the U.S. 

The hotel is in the museum district and very central. A canal tour gives us our bearings and takes us all-around the city, which has the feel of a big village. We stroll along the Brouwersgracht Canal, one of the most picturesque, ogling at the stately canal homes and the many houseboats- some quirky, some upscale. The Jordaan neighborhood’s trendy shops lure us in. 

The Anne Frank Museum has become so popular that you must reserve six weeks in advance on their website; we were glad we did. We book the introductory program, to get more background, before heading off on our tour. You could hear a pin drop, as people followed through the rooms, reading the information and taking in the photos, before climbing up to the space in which the families hid for two years; a very emotional experience. 

We spend hours at the Rijksmuseum, the national museum of the Netherlands, awestruck by the works of the great Dutch masters such as Rembrandt, Vermeer and Van Gogh. A free app on our iPhone enlightens us with wonderful background stories. 

It’s worth the walk to the Grand Hotel Amrath, which was originally in the running as a hotel choice. Originally the joint head office of six shipping companies built in 1916, the hotel is an astounding example of Art Nouveau. We can’t decide which is more impressive: the map of the world made of leaded glass on the ceiling, the woodwork carved in Indonesia or the stained glass panels that decorate the dining room ceiling, so we have a cocktail in their bar and mull it over.

Café Wester is a great choice for lunch near the Anne Frank Museum. The Seafood Bar reminds us how delicious great seafood can be and Brasserie Keizer fulfills our craving for French comfort food. 

Will You Choose to Cruise?
A few days in Amsterdam, off the ship, gives us time to ponder how we feel about river cruising. 

As foodies, we can say the meals were good, but didn’t match up to the flavors, sauces and presentations on our last Royal Caribbean cruise, where my favorite joke to our server was “I can’t eat this; it’s too beautiful!”

Though wine and beer are complimentary during lunch and dinner on Viking River Cruises, guests are invited to the lounge every day at 5:30 p.m. for a get-together. Since dinner was not served until 7 p.m., we calculated that rather than purchasing individual drinks, their Silver Spirits Beverage Package was a better option. 

The Tialfi staff, while pleasant, were much more reserved, most probably trained in the Scandinavian style of formality. By day two, everyone we came in contact with on a daily basis on Royal Caribbean was already addressing me as “Miss Linda.” 

Though not the fault of Viking, when the river levels are low (due to no rain), there are times, guests must be transported by bus to a next location. If the ship is able to travel at low river levels, you can expect somewhat loud engine noise at night. 

The days seemed a bit too regimented for us. With only one restaurant, one lounge and piano music in the evening, there was a sameness to the day that some might find comforting. Just when guests were getting to know other guests, each evening at the lounge get together, the ship’s program director would interrupt to present/sell the next day’s afternoon excursions. We had already reviewed them at home and decided there wasn’t anything we were interested in purchasing. With nowhere else to go on the ship, we were a captive audience. 

Whether you’re a river cruiser, ocean cruiser or a landlubber, get out there and enjoy and remember, as Carl Jung once said:

                           “The shoe that fits one person, pinches another”

Author’s Note:
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Listen to the Music!

Stevie Nicks, lead singer, Fleetwood Mac

Hmmm… flight tomorrow at 6 a.m. Do I pack and go to bed early or go see a Fleetwood Mac Tribute Band concert? 

While the “Linda” in me, logical and organized, would decide the practical thing to do would be to get some rest, my “Lola” side, adventurous and spirited, would think nothing of hopping over the unopened luggage and heading out the door. 

A little background on Lola: JC* had told me the story of how I was almost named Lola, after the wife of my dad’s boss. A lovely older woman from Spain, JC was infatuated with her elegance and kindness. In stepped my Latin grandmother, whose dark eyes sparkled when she was happy and burned a hole in you when she was not. Her usual form of soft persuasion convinced JC that Linda, which means “beautiful” in Spanish, was more befitting a baby girl.

This has led to countless hours of me wondering if a different name might have made me a different person. Do you grow into your name or are you who you are regardless of it? And what about the Oscar Meyer Wienermobile? How will it fair after recently being stripped of its signature moniker in the prime of its celebrity status and forced to be called the Frankmobile? 

As I sat at the concert, tapping my feet and singing along, I became lost in the music and all the memories it conjured up, never giving a thought to anything more than that moment. Being free of my usual multitasking and planning felt wonderful, if only for a little while. I wondered why I had waited so long to invite more music back into my life and vowed to check more concert schedules and start playing music during the day. 

Once home, blasting the Fleetwood Mac Greatest Hits CD seemed like the right thing to do, as the background to our task at hand. Interrupted by a favorite song, which led to an impromptu dance together, made packing more fun, even though it took a bit longer. 

Mr. Wiz* and I reminisced about the Fleetwood Mac concerts we had attended. The one where the couple in front of us, who refused to sit down, were escorted out by security, giving us a bird’s eye view of the stage. The one where we especially noticed teenage fans rocking with seniors, whose walkers were parked nearby, all united, in that moment, for the love of the music. 

The morning came too quickly. We looked at each other, winced and then smiled, deciding our slight headaches might actually be worth it. it There was no time to think about anything, but getting out the door. 

Once on the plane, with my eyes closed, I smiled to think of how music has that magical ability to transport you, whether it be the joy that comes from being awakened by the warble of a songbird; the inner peace brought on by a Gregorian chant or the jolt of energy you get from singing a favorite song at the top of your lungs. Turns out the concert that evening was an important reminder to slow down a bit, take some time to tune out the world and savor the music. 

Image by Gregory Sigrist from Pixabay

*Who’s Who? See “cast of Characters” on the “About” page. 

Author’s Note:I
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The Other New York City

Been there, done that, but have you really? Traveling back to your hometown doesn’t have to mean visiting all the touristy sights you’ve already experienced. There’s another layer to every city; an underbelly of interesting, sometimes magical destinations that are there for the taking, but only if you are aware of them. 

So, with a desire to rekindle some great memories and see something new, Mr. Wiz* and I set out to spend a couple of days in good old NYC.

Prices have skyrocketed in New York hotels, so when we noticed the Arlo Hotel Midtown, a four- star hotel, was offering a 40% room discount on hotels.com if you booked your 2023 room reservation by Dec. 1, 2022, we jumped at the chance. Before jumping too high, I researched a bit further and found out the discount was being offered at all their hotels, which made me feel more secure. 

Located on 38th street and ninth Avenue, its central location suits us perfectly. While rooms are on the small side, they are nicely designed and oh, so peaceful and quiet. The lobby area, with its multiple sitting areas and alcoves, including a glass topped atrium, gives off a very cool vibe. Unfortunately, the rooftop terrace was not yet open for the season. We are given vouchers for tea and coffee at their café, saving $4 per cup each day and offered a once daily 20% discount at their bar or restaurant. The staff is very courteous, or maybe it’s the English accents that they all seem to have. 

Day One

Not wanting to waste a minute, our first stop is the West Village, a charming neighborhood in lower Manhattan’s Greenwich Village. With its 19th century townhouses, cobblestone streets and flowers blooming everywhere, it’s easy to forget you’re in NYC. After a bite at Fairfax Tavern, a small French Bistro, we peruse the area and head back uptown. 

Grand Central Terminal houses the iconic Grand Central Oyster Bar, but what most people don’t know is that if you walk toward the restaurant, stand near the domed arches, put your ear against the tiles and take turns speaking in the softest voice, it is also a whispering gallery. And if that’s not clandestine enough for you, how about a cocktail at The Campbell Bar? The private office and reception hall of financier John W. Campbell, now, a bar and event space, celebrates 1920s opulence with its 25-foot hand painted ceilings, majestic furniture and a grand fireplace. For a lovely, peaceful end to the day, we head to the New York Public Library, with its impressive architecture and interesting free exhibits, and then for a stroll through Bryant Park

Day Two

First thing in the morning, we’re off to the Nederland Theater box office to secure two tickets to that evening’s performance of “Shucked.” If you are able to narrow down your choice to one show, it is much easier to go directly to the box office, rather than standing on the long lines at the TKTS ticket booth at Broadway and 47thStreet. Be sure to check the theater’s seating chart and choose a few seating options before arriving. 

Choosing a show, then purchasing a $4.95 access code on NYTIX to use for discounted tickets seems simple enough. Unfortunately, after multiple attempts, the code did not work on Ticketmaster and I sympathized with those young girls with no Taylor Swift tickets crying into their computers. It did work perfectly well at the box office. We saved the extra handling service charge and secured $130 seats for $69 each. 

Thank goodness area residents convinced the City of New York to save the historic elevated rail line. The High Line is a refreshing touch of nature and art and a great way to walk to Hudson Yards, our next stop. A brand-new neighborhood, boasting 14 acres of public plazas and gardens, this chic area has revitalized the area between 10th and 12th Avenues from west 30th to west 34th streets. 

The Vessel is the area’s focal point. With interconnecting flights of stairs and multiple landings, the large gleaming sculpture serves as visual eye candy, treating the observer to views of the city from various spaces and offering different perspectives. The Shed, an entertainment venue, is able to adapt itself to its ever-changing calendar of events. After a stroll through The Shops at Hudson Yards, an elegant indoor mall, we’re ready for lunch and the main reason we are here. 

We’ve followed Chef Jose Andres since he worked his magic on food that resembled science experiments at the restaurant, el Bulli in Spain (now closed). When he came to the rescue of hurricane victims, first in Puerto Rico and then all over the world, by setting up World Central Kitchen, a nonprofit devoted to feeding victims of natural disasters, he won our hearts. So, we just had to visit his new endeavor Mercado Little Spain Food Hall. If you’ve ever been to an Eataly, this is the Spanish version, selling both food and merchandise. What makes this more impressive are the large signs explaining how to pronounce the names of Jose’s favorite foods along with explanations of what they are; very unintimidating for any gringos. We “yum” our way through Fabada, a bean and Spanish sausage stew, while we enjoy the restaurant’s music and energy. 

Walking back uptown, we have just enough time to freshen up and enjoy a glass of wine in one of the lobby seating areas before heading to dinner. It’s good to be back at Victor’s Café, an old family favorite. With its colorful art, white tablecloths, elegant, tropical feel and Cuban music playing softly in the background, it brings back wonderful memories.

We hardly need to look at the menu and both agree instantly on Lechón Asado, roast suckling pig served with yucca (a root vegetable) and Moros (a combination of black beans and rice). Since this is one of the few restaurants we’ve encountered that actually uses real saffron (one of the most expensive spices in the world, it’s made from the dried stigmas of a crocus; a little goes a long way), we also can’t resist the Paella De Mariscos, saffron infused rice with shellfish. 

To me, the excitement of Broadway starts with everyone on the streets rushing to their respective theaters and ends with the doors all reopening to let the throngs back out on to the street. In between, we swoon over the talented cast, the singing and dancing and how Shucked keeps us chuckling until they take their final bow. 

As we head back to our hotel on foot, NYC is just getting started for the night, but after 10 miles of galivanting today, I am happy to cuddle up in our quiet room and fall asleep with visions of my hometown, still as exciting as ever, still dancing in my head. 

Photo courtesy of Gerd Altmann from Pixabay

*Who’s who? “Cast of Characters on the “About” page. 

Author’s Note:
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“Hello, Universe?…This is Linda Calling”

THE SECRET UNIVERSE CALL CENTER

You can’t just call the universe and ask it to provide you with something that you want. Or, can you?

I have been doing this for years, never realizing there was a whole philosophy built around my practice. The fact that it’s actually worked has given me a deeper sense of belief.

In her book, The Secret, Rhonda Byrne is a bit analytical, but I like the author’s use of the straightforward mantras: “Ask, believe, receive; If you see it in your mind, you will hold it in your hand; Thoughts become their physical equivalents.” Byrne bases her theories on the Law of Attraction, which states that the universe is governed by a matching of frequencies of a person’s experiences with their thoughts. Thoughts are a form of energy; positive thoughts bring positive outcomes and likewise, negative thoughts bring negative outcomes.

Intrigued by the concept, I started with a simple exercise, which seemed easy enough. I was to think of an old friend and see if they somehow came back into my life. I did and they did! Now, armed with confidence, I began focusing on something I wanted or wanted to happen. Thinking it best to confide in someone, so documented proof was established, I regaled Mr. Wiz* with my new practices and focus goals, who, with a wide-eyed stare, seemed relieved when I also mentioned that no involvement on his part was necessary.

Sure, the whole premise of lifting up your energized thoughts and placing them on a fast track to the cosmos may lack scientific evidence, but for me, I can only relate my own experiences. Now, every day, with eyes closed and arms outstretched, I envision and say (either to myself or out loud) something I wish for. I try to only focus on one request at a time.

Since colliding with the universe, so many of my desires have come to fruition, there are too many to count! From small everyday requests to life changing experiences, I can see that there Is a “method to this madness.”

Just to name a few, I have been hired for a corporate position I may not have been entirely qualified for, but knew I could do (repeating daily the voicemail I would record on my first day might have moved that wish along), found a photographer to take free headshots not once, but twice, located the special olive oil I was searching for, found my lost wedding ring and became a journalist!

Lately, I have taken my practice outside, arms outstretched, while imagining the rays of the sun are sparkling down on me and igniting my frequencies. Coincidentally, this was around the same time Mr. Wiz decided our patio needed side privacy panels.

There’s no right way or wrong way to approach this practice. For me, I enjoy the mystical side of it all, so my way works for me. You can do what is comfortable for you. The point is, give it a try! Really, what have you got to lose?

Image by Peggy und Marco Lachmann-Anke from Pixabay

*Who’s who? See “Cast of Characters” on the “About” page.

Author’s Note:
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The Latin From Manhattan

She had fibbed to her friends. She told them she was busy, but instead had decided she would venture out solo and go dancing. Guided by her independent spirit, she was determined to have a good time. Excitedly, she chose her outfit carefully. Making sure the padded shoulders of her dress were adjusted properly, the line down the back of each leg was straight as she put on her hose and any scuffs were cleaned off her ankle strap shoes, she then carefully removed the metal clip that crimped and waved her hair in the front ever so slightly.

She barreled down the stairs and called to her mother that she was leaving. As she closed the front door, she smirked when she heard her mother’s usual comment “Don’t forget to walk near the street and not too close to the buildings.” It was July 4, 1948, and a young girl could venture out alone, as long as she remembered to be cautious.

She changed into her dance shoes and then checked her walking shoes and purse into a cubby, receiving a ticket from the coat check girl. As always, she remembered to fold up some money and hide it in the secret compartment of her purse, just in case.

“Do you wan to dunce?” He wasn’t sure why he had faked a Spanish accent. He had entered the army with it and then returned home without it after World War II. What was he thinking? He smiled to think that maybe he was channeling Cèsar Romero, the famous actor that routinely played “Latin Lover” roles.

He had decided to go out alone that night, bored with heading to the same places with the same crowd. He was restless, always eager to try something new. All these thoughts sped through his mind, when just a few seconds later, the beautiful petite blonde, with the soft waves of her shoulder length hair framing her face, turned and with a lovely smile said “Yes!”

They lost count of how many dances they had danced in a row. Known as the most famous dance hall in the world, New York City’s Roseland Ballroom was at its capacity crowd that night, as almost 3000 people glided around the dance floor. According to an article from The New Yorker, “People accustomed to nightclub life often find the atmosphere slightly phantasmal. The ceiling is hung with dark-blue muslin studded with tiny electric bulbs that give a night-sky effect. The room is lit by neon lamps, graduating in shade from deep pink to lemon yellow. In their dim rays, knots of patrons drift to and from the dance floor with a curiously delicate air, fluorescing a bit as they go.”

The marquee featured the word “Roseland” in script, all aglow in white lights. Underneath, the simple caption, “Dance in air cooled comfort,” reminded those fortunate enough to be inside that tonight they would be enjoying a luxury not available in most homes. Finally and most important, tonight’s bands were displayed: Tommy Reynolds and his Orchestra along with Stella Lopez and Her Rumbas.

He bought her a drink, and they sipped slowly and chatted, he captivated by her sweet smile and her spunk and she, intrigued by his swagger and good looks. This time, he spoke without an accent, hoping she wouldn’t notice the change. She did… and years later, they would still laugh about that night.

He asked if he could escort her home, not knowing she lived in West New York, New Jersey. He didn’t care. Being a “city boy,” he didn’t realize she was taking him the long way home via bus, then ferry and then, up the hill to her house. She didn’t want the night to end.

Hours later, returning back to New York, he walked down the middle of the quiet street, humming and dreamily recounting how, when the clock struck midnight on the ferry, she had said it was officially her birthday and how he had asked if he could kiss her on the cheek. It was brazen of him, but he was happy that, once again, she had smiled and said “Yes!”

I smile every time I recount the story of how my parents met and I say “Yes!” – to being independent, to going it alone and to seeking out new adventures. And, when all else fails, to go dancing!

Post Script #1:
The original Roseland Ballroom, located in the theater district at Broadway and 51st Street was demolished in 1956. It was then resurrected on the site of a former indoor ice-skating rink on 52nd Street and finally closed in 2014 to make way for a 62-story luxury apartment building.

Post Script #2:
According to my parents, the photograph that accompanies this post graced the cover of a Latin magazine that was popular in Manhattan at the time. Their copies were lost over time and after intense research, the cover photograph could not be tracked down.

Author’s Note:
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