Oct. 13- O’Cebreiro: 18 miles, seven hours

The tunnel is dimly lit as the traffic zooms by. We start out a bit groggy, but soon we’re wide-awake, as we focus on making our way on the narrow pedestrian walkway.

The flat path soon gives way to the steep, rocky inclines of the mountains. Every time you think you can’t get any higher, another incline awaits you! The views are just as spectacular as yesterday, but there are verdant patches of farmland and, once in a while, you spot a little town nestled in the hills. By today’s end we’ll have walked 2100 feet, straight up!

We are now in the province of Galicia, known for their abrupt changes in weather, rain and thick mountain fog. When dark clouds come into view and the air starts to get colder, we high-tail it and quicken our pace.

As soon as we check into Casa Valiña, a lovely rustic Casa Rural, the downpour begins. Once we freshen up and are ready to explore the town we realize that if we bring umbrellas and wear our sneakers they will not dry by morning, so we opt for rain jackets and flip flops instead.

We make sure to visit the church that houses the final resting place of Don Elias Valiña Sanpedro, the parish priest who restored the Camino and was responsible for marking the route with the yellow arrows (see photo above). It’s hard to believe you could make this journey without them.

Our Australian friend tells us a harrowing tale over dinner. He was up in the mountains alone when the rain and fog rolled in. From one moment to the next he could not see the path at all, was lucky to come across an albergue, and asked them to call him a taxi.

Oct. 14- Triacastela: 13 miles, five hours

It’s just before sunrise and ahead of us on the road I hear someone singing a song my grandmother used to sing to me in Spanish when I was a little girl. I catch up to the women and tell them in Spanish that I cannot remember the words. They reteach me the song and the four of us are singing at the top of our lungs. It’s a wonderful way to start the day!

Traffic jam: just when we are about to turn a corner, we are surprised to see a herd of cows on the Camino, followed by barking dogs and a Señora yelling at the dogs and the cows.

We arrive at Pension Albergue Lemos, which is very new and modern, with a lovely big terrace on our floor.

Oct. 15- Sarria: 12 miles, four hours

It’s dark and drizzly this morning, but in less than an hour we are walking with our jackets off.

Sarria is the town where you can start the Camino, walk to Santiago and still receive a Compostelo (certificate). From now on, the path will be more crowded. We laugh that we can tell the “newbies” because their shoes are so clean.

Our hotel, Pensión Albergue Puente Ribiera, is the first one in the town and from the sitting room we can see the bridge and the Camino route.

Everyone does the Camino their own way. Accommodations at the low end range from a straw mat on a church floor (for a donation) to a bunk bed in an albergue (a Pilgrim hostel). From there, choices include a star rated pensión, hostel, Casa Rural (a B&B) or a hotel.

We followed our savvy Australian friend who recommended a group of new albergues for the first few nights. It was an interesting experience and one that we needed to try. Those traveling alone will tell you that it’s the best way to meet people.

We soon realized that we could stay on our planned budget and upgrade our accommodations. While some like the adventure of not planning ahead as to where they will wind up each night, we were more comfortable with planning every day’s route and reserving ahead.

Oct. 16- Portomarín: 14 miles, 5 and one-half hours

We decide to get going earlier this morning and have breakfast on the road. It’s so dark (sunrise isn’t until 8:50 a.m.). We’re holding a flashlight and can hardly see where we are walking; not smart. We tell ourselves not to do this again.

I started laughing at the Camino obstacle course. Between the cow pies, mud, chestnuts (look like small lime green nerf balls before they are harvested) and the man on horseback coming toward us, you can’t lose your focus.

We stop and ask hotel directions at a small grocery store and they ask the grandmother to escort us. It’s a long walk and I feel obligated to make conversation in Spanish. When we arrive, she sweetly kisses us on both cheeks and wishes us “Buen Camino.”

Later, we see her again at the restaurant where we have dinner. We finally realize that she is the matriarch of the family that owns our hotel, the grocery store and restaurant. We ask her to take a photo with us and she is delighted.

Our hotel, El Padrino, is in the theme of the movie “The Godfather.” We are in the Don Vito room and it’s very high style, all in black, white and gray. At first, it seems so out of place, but we relax and welcome its uniqueness and comfort.

Oct. 9- Astorga: 20 miles, six and one-half hours

The walk seems unusually long, but swapping stories with our friends from Utah and New Hampshire makes the day fly by.

Tradition dictates that it is “your Camino.” You walk at your own pace, stop at different towns along the way and decide if/when a rest day is necessary. When you run into someone you haven’t seen in a while, you are so happy to reconnect and it usually results in lots of hugs and a celebratory glass of wine. There is such a wonderful feeling of camaraderie, but it’s all in the moment. You can have an intensely personal conversation with someone, then never see them again. It is said that the Camino provides; what you need may magically appear and a stranger’s words may be just what you were searching for all along.

We follow the signs to the old city and finally find our hotel called Descansa Wendy. It’s a lovely guesthouse. The table is already set for breakfast in the sun room with blue and white china on a white linen tablecloth and the menu sounds delicious. What a lovely treat!

We run into our California friend on the street and she joins us for dinner.

Oct. 10- Rabanal del Camino: 13 miles, 4 and one-half hours

It’s cold this morning, 45 degrees, but once the sun comes up, we take off our jackets.

We run into a big group that we know, including some from Australia that we had lost track of. We all stop to see a lovely church and then around the next corner are surprised to see a man dressed in medieval costume with his pet hawk (photo opportunity for a donation),

Our hotel, La Posada Gaspar, is a renovated 17th century pilgrim hostel that exudes rustic charm. There is no laundry service, so we wash our clothes and hang them on the provided line on our terrace.

Oct. 11- Molinaseca: 17 miles, seven hours

By day’s end, we will have walked to the highest point: 4,600 feet! The combination of shale, boulders, loose rock and ravines made this one of the hardest walks, but the scenery is breathtaking. It is so silent and so still in the mountains. When the path narrowed to single file, everyone stopped talking; maybe in deference to the surroundings?

The Camino continued uphill and it seems to last forever. Finally, we see a town in the distance and a medieval bridge. Our hotel, Hostel el Palacio, is housed in an old stone building. Large groups are already sitting outside in the sun enjoying a glass of beer or wine. We join them and toast that the day was a success.

Oct. 12- Villafranca del Bierzo: 19 miles, seven hours

We start the day stressed. We decide to walk through town, but it is not well marked. We’re losing time, stopping to constantly check the map.

We’re walking through the town of Cacabelos and I stop to admire a lovely courtyard. A woman on the street says that it is a restaurant whose tradition it is to serve pilgrims a glass of wine. She insists we follow her and introduces us. We thank her and she gives me a hug. We sit in the courtyard, enjoy the wine and listen to the live music.

Once again, our hotel is at the end of town (more of a trip now, but less tomorrow morning). We ring the bell at the Casa Leo B&B, but no one answers. Frustrated, we head back to town and ask in a bar if they will call for us.

We head back once again and this time Señora answers the door right away, apologizes and escorts us upstairs. We feel as if we are staying with our grandmother. We have the whole living room to ourselves. There are only Spanish TV stations. It’s a good way to practice the language and we decide to sit and relax for a while, until we hear the big news : there are rainstorms and floods all over Spain.

Oct. 5- Mansilla de Los Mulas: 17 miles, five hours

Watching your every step hour after hour on the Roman Road is exhausting, so I entertain myself by thinking about the people that walked this same route thousands of years ago. Later in the day, we’re back on the Senda. This is my kind of path: dirt, flat and divided in half by scrub brush.

We arrive at La Pensión de Blanca and settle in. On the street, we strike up a conversation with pilgrims from Washington state, then are happy to see some familiar faces from a few towns back. We have a glass of wine together and swap stories of our latest travels.

One young woman is traveling with her service dog and tells the story of how her dog is able to sense some ailments in people by scent. The dog kept walking with an older Pilgrim that day, though she insisted she was fine. Luckily, they were staying at the same albergue. When they arrived, the woman passed out from low blood sugar. The dog knew!

Oct. 6- León: 12 miles, four hours

This is not the scenic route. We’re walking single file close to the road through an industrial park. Once we are in the city outskirts, we are greeted by the municipal police, who give us a map and point us in the right direction.

Our hotel, Hostel Casca Antigua is in the heart of the old city and features Roman ruins in its basement, under glass. Our terrace is a great place to people watch.

León is known as one of the loveliest cities in Spain. This lively ancient city is known for its 13th century Gothic Cathedral and its tapas scene (buy a small beer, enjoy free tapas, then move on). We are excited to be here for the Fiesta de San Frolián, the city’s patron Saint. There is a medieval market with vendors in costume, processions and dancing.

We find a lovely restaurant for dinner. We are the only ones there when they open at 8:30 p.m., but when we leave at 10 p.m., the place is packed. Spaniards start work late, take a siesta for a couple of hours in the middle of the day, return to work and then continue with their evening. Everyone stays up late, even on a “school night.”

Oct. 7- León: Rest Day!

We start our day at the Cathedral (pictured above). To me, this is more impressive than the Burgos Cathedral. Headsets explain every detail: the building was built in the 13th century over Roman baths. The poor quality of the stone left the building unstable. In the late 19th century, a massive renovation began that took 50 years!

We visit the Convento de San Marcos, the sumptuous parador that was featured in the movie “The Way.” We read all about the building’s history, as we visit the Cloisters. The parador was once a monastery, a prison and a horse farm. It was in such disrepair that it was slated to be torn down, if not for the Leòn residents.

We opt for a late lunch, rather than another late-night dinner and decide that we need a nap after enjoying a bottle of wine.

Oct. 8- Villar de Mazarife: 13 and one-half miles, four hours

It was an easy day. We walked through city streets and an industrial area.

Meson Albergue Tio Pepe has recently been renovated (love the wood smell), but we soon realize that that there is no insulation between the ceiling and the floor, so every time there is movement above us, the floor screeches like a haunted house!

We think there is not much going on, until we’re told of a museum run by a local older gentleman. He lives in an old wooden structure and every corner houses a collection: telephones, farm implements, shells, etc. which he proudly displays so neatly.

Then, a young pilgrim priest tells us that he will be saying Mass at the local church at 6 p.m. and invites us all to attend. The Mass is dedicated to the pilgrims and it’s a very special experience.

Oct. 1- Fromista: 15 and one-half miles, 5 and one-half hours

This is our kind of road (flat and dirt) and we are making good time on the meseta. We prepared ourselves for the steep incline, but the descent is even steeper than I had imagined. Luckily, I am mesmerized by the life stories of two women from New York and before I know it, we are back on the flat path.

While Fromista is not a big town (population 840), it is famous for its Iglesia de San Martin. Built in 1066, this church is considered to be one of the finest examples of Romanesque architecture in all of Spain.

Our Hotel Doña Mayor is very contemporary. Our room has a nice terrace an (a great treat). We are sleepy, but we freshen up and go exploring. We run into our friend from California and enjoy a glass of wine together.

Oct. 2- Carriòn de Los Condes: 12 miles, 3 and one-half hours

We start the morning out with a good laugh, when a German Pilgrim wonders out loud if those are real roosters crowing (as if on cue) every time we leave and arrive in a new town.

Today’s route is on what is called the “Soul-less Senda,” a gravel path that follows along the highway. Only a ravine divides the road from the path, but luckily today is Sunday, so traffic is sparse (everything shuts down on Sundays in Spain except restaurants and bars).

I pass the time thinking about how pilgrims made this trip hundreds of years ago without the latest equipment from REI and wondering if all these lovely little towns we’ve visited would even still exist without the Camino.

We have to walk to the end of town to get to our hotel, San Zoilo Real Monesterio and we are captivated from the moment we see it. Dating back to the 11th century, this monastery has been meticulously restored and is now a national monument.

We investigate every nook and cranny of this immense building. Only guests may visit the cloisters and the church. The door is opened for us and we are the only ones to enter. The cloisters are so still, so peaceful and we can almost still hear the Gregorian chant CD that was playing at reception. We marvel at how ornate the church is, with its impressive artwork and sculptures.

Oct. 3- Terradillos de Los Templarios: 17 miles, 5 and one-half hours

Another morning ritual is the gathering of toilet paper into our pockets. We have been lucky to find bathrooms in every little town, but sometimes they are not very well stocked.

Today, there are no services for miles, so it is suggested that we eat before starting out. The path is somewhat flat and featureless. We pass the time by chatting with pilgrims from England, Australia and Michigan.

We are pleased to see that Albergue Templarios is right at the beginning of town. We meet up with a couple from Utah and enjoy dinner together.

Oct. 4- Calzadilla de Los Hermanillos:, 17 miles, 6 and one-half hours

We are walking on history. This is the longest stretch of Roman Road left in Spain today, with probably little change. It’s a wide path with loose rocks, pebbles and ruts. There is no refuge from the sun and the flies are swarming around our heads as we try to focus on the path.

When we arrive at Casa el Cura we hear someone singing in the kitchen. It is the husband, Leo, and he and his wife, Jemma, the owners, come to greet us. The place is so charming and we feel right at home.

We enjoy Leo’s cooking at a big table with pilgrims from Iceland, France, Ireland, Montana and Oregon. The wine flows and we enjoy the stimulating conversation.

 Sept. 27- Burgos: 16 miles, six hours

The path starts flat, then gives way to loose rocks on blacktop, then flat again on the river route and it seems to last forever.

Burgos is the oldest city in Europe and is known for its medieval architecture and its unpleasant climate (luckily except for May and September).

We have to walk all through Burgos to get to the Hotel Mesón del Cid in the old city. We’re hot and tired, but when we turn the corner and see our first view of the Cathedral, it takes our breath away.

Initially built in 1221, this Gothic Cathedral is one of the largest in Spain and is now a UNESCO World Heritage site. As soon as we freshen up, we head over to see the church. A German pilgrim tells us that the admission is free for pilgrims. We spend lots of time looking in every nook and cranny and admiring the art and artifacts.

We are concerned that our feet are throbbing as if they have a heartbeat, until we meet up with some pilgrims for a glass of wine and they all feel the same; blame it on the cement.

Sept. 28- Burgos: Rest Day!

We awake early, but it’s nice to be able to lounge around. I am so excited to have a hairdryer, but the funny thing is my hair looks just the same.

After breakfast, we head out to explore the city. We decide to stop back at the hotel to grab jackets and wind up taking a nap. We later visit the Castillo de Burgos, an old stone castle recently renovated after being damaged during the Napoleonic wars. We enjoy the wonderful views and the heat brings out the smell of the pines.

Later, we sit in our hotel’s courtyard, enjoying a beer and staring up at the Cathedral, marveling at how they were able to build such a structure all those thousands of years ago and how it was so fortunate that it has remained intact since then. We meet some other pilgrims and continue the discussion.

We run into our pilgrim friends from Connecticut and join them for a glass of wine on the plaza. Across from us, a musician serenades us with his Spanish guitar.

Sept. 29- Hornillos: 13 miles an, four hours

We are feeling great after our rest day. We enjoy catching up with our pilgrim friends from Connecticut over breakfast, then take off at a good pace. There is little shade on the meseta. Endless fields of barley and oats surround the path. It’s peaceful, quiet and very still. We enjoy a wonderful conversation with a young woman from Oregon.

Not much has changed in Hornillos over the past centuries. It’s a lovely medieval village with a population of 60. It’s a nice treat to have a room on the first floor at La Casa del Abuelo.

We take a walk over to see the Gothic Church of San Román. There’s a remarkable difference between the warm outside temperature and the cold church interior. We are humbled by the beautiful artwork and the ornate vestments on hangers at the back of the church.

One of the most important rituals that we look forward to each day is eating. Spaniards are not big on breakfast; a hunk of bread from the local bakery (hopefully with chopped tomatoes and olive oil) or a slice of a tortilla, an egg and potato pie, gets us on our way. We make a sandwich and share an apple for lunch and take a break along the way. Dinners are reasonable and plentiful. A three-course meal with a bottle of wine costs from 10 – 16 euros. So far, our favorites have been Paella de Marisco, shellfish with rice flavored with chicken broth and saffron, Arroz Negro, shellfish with rice flavored with squid ink, Cocido, a thick soup made with beans and chorizo (Spanish sausage) and bull stew (the best pot roast we’ve ever had).

Sept. 30- Castrojeriz: 13 miles, 4 and one-half hours

Another important daily ritual is putting on our hiking boots each morning. Our feet must feel snug, but not too tight. We get to the point when we can tell when the delicate balance is just right. We’ve seen other pilgrims with feet so sore, they are hiking in flip flops, so we are very grateful for minimal foot problems.

It’s make your own breakfast this morning at our Casa Rural and a German couple is kind enough to show us how all the European appliances work. We then return the favor and pass on our newfound knowledge to the next group of pilgrims.

It’s 48 degrees and we are bundled up, but 15 minutes later the sun is out and the jackets come off. It’s back to the meseta again. It’s a rougher path than yesterday and when it narrows to single file, no one is talking and the only sound you can hear are the hiking poles as they hit the ground; very Zen.

Castrojeriz is a sleepy little town, though it was a major Camino stop during medieval times. We have to walk through the whole town before we arrive at Hotel Iacobus. A knight in armor greets us at the entrance near the carved wooden staircase. A lovely antique armoire is the focal point of our room. We eat lunch on our terrace and then go exploring around the property. We feel as if we are in Old World Spain. The parlor is decorated with elegant period furniture, interesting books, art and the owner’s personal mementos. We meet a fellow pilgrim from California, dine out on the terrace and fall asleep feeling sorry that we have to leave here tomorrow.